wolfe10

Good idea. Take pictures. Use them to get a firm quote from a shop in your area.

Beeps, Where are you/the coach located? There are several companies around the country who specialize in repairing these dual pane windows. We had our redone this winter at: http://suncoastdesigners.com/ There were 20 coaches with windows being repaired when we were there. They have hookups (electric and water with dump station). There are other places around the country that do the same kind of thing.

Michael, Sure, Newmar should be able to tell you what equipment you have and how to use it. But, a "search" through the basement for make and model numbers may get you an answer today-- if that is important (i.e. you are currently dry camping)!

Jim, Might want to inflate to PSI on the sidewall/rim. That will give you a little more cushion in terms of air loss. Have you confirmed that the leak is in a repairable area and not one that could cause a blow out?

Jim, Couple of issues: Has it been driven with lower than required PSI (for your wheel position weight)? If so, I would not use it for a steer tire. The kind of damage and its location. On tread area is OK to repair. Sidewall is not OK to repair. And, if you have on-board air and have verified that you are OK per the two above issues, and are only loosing 6 PSI overnight, you might: If you have a TPMS-- just keep monitoring PSI OR If you do not have a TPMS, stop every couple of miles and verify PSI. Again, only consider driving if you can do it safely.

Without an inverter, you will not have 120 VAC without shore power or generator. Best suggestion is to read the label (brand and model) of the two converter/inverters you saw. From that we may be able to tell you how it is wired-- if indeed you have an inverter.

Don, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Easy way to tell if that large fuse is bad-- shore power off, generator off, inverter on: if inverter powered 120 VAC items in the coach such as microwave work, the fuse is good. If that is good, next question is whether 120 VAC is getting to the inverter from the main 120 VAC breaker box. Flip the inverter breaker (in the breaker box) off and back on-- see if it was tripped. There is also a breaker on the inverter itself. There is also a fuse (may be more than one) in the inverter.

You are correct. Suction side includes tank pickup, fuel line from tank to primary fuel filter/water separator, separator itself and line from separator to lift pump. The lift pump provides pressure, so the line from it to secondary fuel filter, secondary filter itself and line from secondary filter to engine/injector pump is pressurized. Pressure varies by engine/injection system.

Correct. The nylon drain plug is the proper one for the Atwood. Atwood does not even sell anodes.

Chuck, Thanks for the update. See you on the road.

With completely dead batteries, start there. If bulging, don't waste time-- replace them. If a battery has in internal short, it can be dangerous to attempt to charge them. THEN see if the inverter/charger works properly.

Yes, if Suburban water heater, you NEED an anode. If Atwood water heater, they recommend their nylon drain plug. The difference is tank material.

Correct.

Bob, It they are discharged from trying to start the A/C, you may have to turn on the breaker to allow them to recharge before you can accurately determine if they are bad.

Are the burned wires inside the ATS or wires outside it from generator or shore power or to coach main 120 VAC breaker box?

What is the voltage when this occurs-- low voltage will cause excessive amp draw? And is this the CG breaker, RV main breaker or the A/C breaker on the RV breaker panel that is tripping?

Check with Spartan-- your chassis maker specs the fuel tank.

The most common cause of overheating in an ATS is a loose connection. A loose connection= resistance= heat. Heat degrades insulation and also the copper of the wire= more resistance. Once a year it is a very good idea to check both ATS and 120 VAC breaker box for any sign of overheating and also check the tightness of all connections. A very worthwhile 15 minutes.

I don't know about better, but a J inflated to side wall PSI will carry more load than an H. Go to the Michelin inflation tables and you can quickly determine the proper PSI for each tire.

I know of no RV manufacturer who makes there own refrigerator, heaters, A/C's, stoves, engines, transmissions, axles, etc.

Actually, the Allison will perform the same, whether you have an exhaust brake or engine compression brake. If speed in a gear increases to where RPM could damage the engine, it WILL upshift. Does your trailer have brakes? Are they working? And, though you selected 2nd gear, do you know that indeed you were in second gear. Said another way, using the down arrow to select 2nd gear, does NOT mean it instantly downshift to 2nd. It will downshift to/toward second as soon as a downshift will not overspeed the engine. What engine? If exhaust brake, have you confirmed that it IS working? What percent grade was this-- with trailer brakes, an exhaust brake and 2nd gear should be good for a 6+% grade. If 10%, yes you will need to use service brakes as well. OR, if what you are carrying in the trailer is a vehicle and you have an extra driver, drive it separately when you hit these severe grades.

The Allison did exactly what it should if RPM in that gear was rising to where it would do engine damage, it WILL upshift. The solution is to use the brakes (service brakes) firmly and long enough to grab a lower gear where braking HP will keep your speed in check. I call it EQUILIBRIUM SPEED-- where you are neither speeding up nor slowing down. This speed will be faster than a loaded 18 wheeler and slower than an empty one-- just plain physics.

Actually, your RS2000 is an excellent charger. Why use anything else? Again, fully charge the batteries and then have them load tested. If you suspect a bad battery, PLEASE KEEP AN EYE ON BATTERY TEMPERATURE AND OUTGASSING. What happens when a battery has a bad cell is that the charger (no matter how smart) tries to charge a 10 volt battery as if it were a 12 volt battery. That severely overcharges the remaining cells, causing overheating, outgassing and in many cases swelling of the battery case. Be careful working around batteries. Sulfuric acid, hydrogen and oxygen can be explosive as well as corrosive.

Yup, takes the correct "A/C fin comb" and some patience.

Draining and/or replacing the filter in the fuel separator (better known as the PRIMARY FUEL FILTER/WATER SEPARATOR) is one of those things for which there is no "standard answer" in terms of service interval. If it only sees clean fuel, it could go a million miles. One tank of contaminated fuel could clog several filters in just a few miles. Hopefully, your primary filter/water separator has a clear bowl/bottom. If so, there is no need to open the drain, ever unless you see dirt or water. A good idea to check it visually the next time you stop after filling up. Again 1-2 seconds is all it takes. Be sure to carry at least two sets of fuel filters-- even if you can not change them, you can always find someone with the skill to do so, but late some night, or on a Sunday morning or in the middle of nowhere, you may not be able to find the correct filters.