wolfe10

John, Your local Caterpillar dealer will have a breakdown of what you need. Be sure to take your engine serial number-- that is his basis for going to the parts book. And, for your engine, it may be that only the non-greasable hub is shown. the greasable was for older engines, but is an exact fit. Again, greasable that IS GREASED is best. Non-greasable/sealed next with greasable that is not greased the worst.

On many coaches, the alternator also provides the tach signal, so it is quite likely the two are related. The problem could the be the alternator, regulator or a battery isolator. Could even be that a wire came loose. It could also be the belt, but were the belt to break on all engines but the Caterpillar 3126, the engine would overheat. Any shop that works on alternators can diagnose this.

I agree. IF (ya, big IF) you will grease it.

John, It really depends on the access you have to the fan hub from above (bedroom or closet). It is quite likely that you can remove the fan, place it (probably wrapped up) in the fan shroud against the CAC and then remove the fan hub and bearing. Be aware that both sealed and greasable bearing replacements are available.

You also have to verify that you have a wheel/rim that can accommodate a larger tire. And that the larger tire will not interfere with body or suspension components. If you tell us what chassis and wheel size you have, someone else may have experience with your exact chassis. It will also affect your effective gear ratio.

Ann, Do any of the other propane appliances work when the stove does not (like water heater)? Can you hear/smell gas when you turn on the burner? Hear "clicking" of the igniter? What brand and model is it? Did the old stove work?

That would suggest that the PC board is not signaling for cooling. First thing is to verify 12 VDC to the back of the refrigerator (the PC board runs on 12 VDC).

Get a good evaporator cleaner (same as for your house) at any box store. If really bad, will probably need a brush as well. As toothbrush probably does not have long enough bristles.

Good question. But, quite a bit of the answer depends on your skill level. For some, a couple of screwdrivers and wrenches are "past their pay grade". Others carry a full complement of tools. I would certainly recommend carrying enough tools to change routine components such as belts, hoses and fuel filters. If you have the tools to do that, even if you don't have the knowledge, with tools at hand, you can probably find someone to help. Same with carrying normal breakdown parts, including two sets of fuel filters, belts, spare for each fluid. Noticing that hydraulic fluid level is low in a CG is painless if you have the proper fluid along. It is requires a drive into town and search on Sunday afternoon, quite a different matter.

dkontz6234, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First, confirm that the refrigerator cooling unit is hot (feel the black tube near the burner area). If it is not hot, the heat source is not working-- could be lack of 12 VDC, could be bad PC board, thermister or, I guess bad heating element (though not working on LP or 120 VAC probably rules out the heating element. If it is hot, the cooling unit is bad and you need a new cooling unit or refrigerator.

Carl, Your refrigerator owners manual may have instructions. If not, you can find a copy here: http://www.thetford.com/HOME/PARTS/NorcoldIncRefrigerators/1200Series/tabid/467/Default.aspx

Have to decide between "cute" and "effective". My take is that I want someone not paying particularly good attention to NOT try to merge between coach and toad. Big print and short and to the point! I agree, once into a CG, the "cute one" is..... well..... cuter.

Carl, Next "events" where I will be doing Maintenance Seminars are: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/planned?eventId=789714&EventViewMode=EventDetails http://www.fmca.com/conventions/redmond-2014

Yes, 4 bolts hold the roof A/C in place and the gasket would need to be replaced if the upper unit is removed. But, to remove the upper unit just to clean the evaporator and condenser would be a lot of extra work-- with care (to keep water out if the coach when washing the evaporator) this servicing can be done with the unit in place. Have done it that way for years. And, particularly in a humid environment, the evaporator as well as condenser need to be cleaned annually to keep mold at bay. Get that "wet dog" smell when you turn on the A/C-- it is time for an evaporator cleaning.

Boberoo, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Monaco should be able to supply you with a schematic, but most are very simple. From the 12 VDC vacuum pump, the line generally goes to a vacuum reservoir and from that to the dash HVAC control.

Carl, Start with the free stuff-- Do a "burner area tune-up". Thing that can cause this that will be addressed by the tune-up: Rust flakes, dirt or insect nest in the burner causing low flame. Spec of dirt in the propane jet. Improper placement of the igniter/thermocouple or dirt on it, insect nest, etc. While you are out there (all this outside access door), clean and tighten the 12 VDC connection at the back of the refrigerator. No parts and no special tools are needed.

Not aware of a new one fitting that criteria. But, used YES. In fact our last coach, a 1993 Foretravel fit that bill exactly: 96" width and 10' 6" tall, 36' long. Diesel pusher with Caterpillar engine, Allison 6 speed transmission.

GConner, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Can you read a name on the wiper arm?

Bluebirds, Too many years ago to have any record of it. This morning I went by a local sign company and in heavy mil magnetic sign material, "Car In Tow" signs 3" X 24" would $8 each. I am having one made-- if it looks good, may start a cottage industry! That will help pay the fuel from Texas to Oregon so I can do the 4 seminars I do at the FMCA Conventions!

Monaco Service should be able to look that up for you: Monaco Oregon Service Center. ORservice@monacorv.com. 91320 Coburg Industrial Way. Coburg, OR 97408. 877-466-6226

Bill, You might be surprised (but I doubt it) by the number of cars I see in the rear view camera accelerating like craze to get ahead of one more car, but know they will run out of entrance ramp before they pass the coach. Suspect that more than a few are stopped by the sign on the right rear of the car "CAR IN TOW". Magnetic sign is 3" tall and 24" long. Weighs maybe 3 ounces. Just getting a little long in the tooth.

Lots of discussions on the Ford Fusion. Just go to the top right of this page and enter Fusion into the search box.

Jim, No, I agree, it is NOT a legal requirement. But, my reason for using it is that I suspect it will cut down on the idiots trying to merge BETWEEN the coach and toad.

Yes, adheres to the metal (magnetic). I just wipe the area with a damp paper towel before putting it on and make sure the magnetic sign is also clean. No scratches in 4 years.

Yes, we have a magnetic "Car in Tow" sign, that sticks easily on the trunk. But, it is getting long in the tooth. Would love to hear of someone currently selling them.