wolfe10

jimbo@2006, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Contact your chassis maker with your VIN. They can walk you through it. If Freightliner: 800 385-4357 . Assume you have checked the fuel filter(s), as this is where a clogged fuel filter will first exhibit symptoms. Also, check the air filter minder reading to make sure you don't have an intake restriction.

Actually, unless you are in an extremely cold area #2 diesel is what all the pumps have. Further, that #2 diesel is low sulfur/ULSD. The only time you will not use #2 diesel is in extreme cold conditions, where #2 diesel can GEL. Then they blend #2 with #1 with a lower cloud point.

Mike, I will restate that per MY philosophy: You are responsible for knowing what Preventive Maintenance needs to be done (and hopefully why). Whether you do it or hire it out or some combination there-of is not important. If you don't keep up with it, you will likely spend a LOT more to keep it going. Example: don't change coolant until it turns acidic-- buy a new radiator, water pump, etc. Don't change belts-- stuck on the side of the road with broken belts. Basically, it comes down to PM or side of the road. Yes, RV's are complicated machines. I would much rather do the work (or pay for the work) at MY convenience, not on the side of the road. There are some parts that you should carry with you. Don't own a screwdriver-- no problem. You can find someone who can work on your rig anywhere in North America. But, you may not be able to find the part you need on a weekend, late at night, etc. Might you want to learn how to do the couple of things that account for 75% of the "I am broken down on the side of the road"? Your call. This is EXACTLY what I teach in the seminars I give for the Diesel RV Club. Brett

No idea, but replacing an oil filter with the proper one would sure be an inexpensive answer-- worth doing before spending big bucks diagnosing the problem.

I pulled out my Workhorse manual. Peak torque of 455 lb-ft is at 3200 RPM with 400 lb-ft from 1600 RPM. Peak HP of 340 is at 4,200 RPM. Can see no reason to run above peak HP RPM, though the book states: "RPM Limiting 5000 RPM" I suspect that it will be electronically controlled and fuel will be cut off/transmission will upshift to protect the engine above that figure.

Clean the CAC from the outside (shoot water with/without detergent compatible with your radiator material-- if aluminum, use Simple Green EXTREME). Clean the radiator from the inside (ya, it is a dirty messy job to shoot from the inside outward-- be sure to wear clothes you really don't like). Will this get everything between them-- most if it. The only other option is to cut a window into the center between the CAC and radiator, clean and then make and install a "door". It has to be airtight so all air entering the CAC goes through the radiator as well.

Actually, the FMCA Towing Guide covers TWO criteria: 1. Is the vehicle towable 4 wheels down from a mechanical perspective. 2. Has the manufacturer deemed it towable (from a liability standpoint). Most manual transmission VW's meet #1, but VW had made a decision to not deem them towable. They are not the only company to do this-- Mazda comes to mind. Even when they shared models with Ford and the Ford was towable, Mazda Corp said NO.

Fred, Is the leaking filter the primary filter (i.e. before lift pump) or secondary (after lift pump) assuming you have two filters. If before, a loose drain plug will leak when engine is off and SUCK AIR WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING/TRYING TO RUN.

Correct-- Workhorse is no longer making RV chassis. I suspect there were some in coach makers stock well after Workhorse ceased production. But, I would suggest that the Workhorse W with 8.1 GM gas engine and Allison transmission is a good gas chassis. Make sure the brake recall has been performed, but that is covered for free.

Yes, if you have the deep sump (ribbed aluminum instead of stamped steel pan), the correct quantity is 29 quarts, so 30 should be OK. Were all the oils used for diesels-- sure sounds like Bubba on the loose. Every auto parts house, Walmart, etc carries Rotella T 15-40 and most carry Delo 400 15-40, either of which are good choices. But, if any of the oils was not rated for diesels, I would change it again when you get home.

Raise the bed/ closet to assess the top of the engine and it should be easy to find where the oil fill is. If not, here is the tech number for Monaco-- Frank Phillips is very familiar with Safaris: 877 466-6226. Brett

Below is the reply to fnlatch's Private Message to me. BTW, I would not think this is an air related issue. Yes, air restriction can limit power, but not much air is required at idle (low RPM and no boost), so dying under those conditions would suggest other than air- related issues. Fred, Actually, this would make a great post-- we have several diesel techs on the forum. Copy it and paste a new thread under "engines". But were it mine, I would start by removing the primary fuel filter for the engine and the fuel filter for the generator. Dissect them and see if there is contamination. The other option is that there is a problem with a leak in one of the fuel lines on the suction side of the lift pump (line from tank to primary filter and primary filter to lift pump). Being on the suction side, you would not see fuel leaking out, but air can get in. Same for generator circuit. Now, as to engine stopping-- did it just die, or did it miss before dying. If it just died, may be an electrical issue. Brett

Very nice work. Thanks for the pictures. Bet that will earn you some additional gourmet meals.

The good news is that if you draw too many amps, you will NOT "blow up the RV". What will happen if you exceed the 30 amp draw is that the CG breaker will trip. But, as suggested, better to write down the draws of various appliances (be sure to include the converter or battery charger). You will very quickly learn what you can use and which appliances you have to turn off to run others.

Tilldee, The battery disconnect switch is for your 12 VDC system. It should remain on anytime you are using the coach. Shore power is 120 VAC and runs your large appliances such as roof air, house-style outlets, refrigerator (which can run on propane or 120 VAC), etc. The converter, battery charger or inverter/charger uses shore power to charge the batteries. When you get to a CG, check that voltage and polarity of the outlet are correct. Then turn off the CG breaker. Plug in the coach shore power cord and then turn on the CG breaker. Check voltage when you turn on high draw appliances such as roof A/C's, as many older CG's have small gauge wire and voltage can drop below safe levels (108 VAC is as low as you want to run most appliances). I suggest a digital voltmeter that plugs into a house type outlet in your coach. Makes checking nothing more than glancing at the meter.

You will also have the verify that you have clearance with the wider tire between it an suspension and body parts. As Roger said, your 275's may already have a reasonable safety margin-- won't know until actual coach weighting (4 wheel positions best).

Perhaps I am not picturing how you are powering the brake buddy, but if only from a line from the coach, I see two problems: What happens in a break-away situation-- no power to the brake. The brake buddy takes a lot of amps (for a short time). It is a LONG way from your alternator/coach chassis battery to the cigarette lighter plug of the toad. High amp draws are likely to substantially reduce voltage and therefore brake buddy performance and perhaps life. With coach engine running, check voltage at the brake buddy when you activate it to make sure it is at least 12.0 VDC.

First confirm that voltage is at least 108 when the compressor tries to start. If is does this on shore power, but not on generator, it may be a shore power issue. If not a voltage issue, look into the things Rich mentioned-- pay particular attention to the capacitor. If you are not comfortable working when charged capacitors, have a professional do it. You CAN do a visual check (on-roof inspection)-- if it is leaking or deformed, assume it is bad.

Larrybla, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are these kick down jacks? What model HWH jacks?

The issue is "what is a REGULAR 240 outlet. As I said, a 50 amp RV IS, repeat IS 240 VAC as measured from outer straight (L1) to the other outer straight (L2). But, a 30 amp household dryer that very closely resembles a 30 amp RV. The 30 amp house is 240 VAC, while a 30 amp RV is ONLY 120 VAC-- DO NOT DO THIS.

Pete, Yes, a 50 amp has TWO hots, a neutral and a ground. The problem (and a BIG ONE) is that 30 amp RV wiring has ONE hot, a neutral and a ground. But, it looks somewhat like a 30 amp dryer plug which has TWO hots. Plug a 30 amp RV into a dryer outlet and you will "let the smoke out if everything".

Yes, marine application have one other thing we in motorhomes do not-- unlimited COOLING!

on.vacation, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, of course you are welcome to attend a meeting of any Chapter you may be interested in joining. That certainly includes the Diesel RV Club: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/ You could have enjoyed the pizza and the 10 anniversary (of the chapter) cake in Perry.

" There is no such thing as a town named Terlingua." Indeed, it is a town-- now mostly a ghost town, but it does have a few inhabitants. Just go to Mapquest or other mapping program and enter Terlingua TX. Or: http://ghosttowntexas.com/ Been here, done that.

kadesh, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Sounds like you are loosing 120 VAC to the inverter. If all other 120 VAC items such as roof A/C work when this happens, look at the breaker for the inverter and then look at the inverter itself. When on shore power, your battery should be charged by the inverter/charger and shore power should be "passed though" to power that microwave (rather than having it powered by the battery through the inverter).