wolfe10

Afgandon, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. At least on our 1997 Safari, the chassis batteries are NOT charged except by the alternator when the engine is running. Many have added a separate small charger-- here is what I use, as it also has a desulfate function: http://www.batteryminders.com/batteryminder-model-1500-12volt-1-5-amp-maintenance-charger-desulfator/ Another option is one of the "smart relays" like the Xantrex Echo charger that charges the chassis battery from the house battery when shore power powers your inverter charger.

It is a Yahoo Group: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/conversations/messages If that still does not pull it up, Google: "Yahoo Safari Friends". Suspect you will need to join just like any of the other Yahoo groups-- it is free and a good resource for Safari owners.

Ed, No, neither wax nor petroleum-based products should be used on vinyl stripes. 303 Aerospace is safe to use on them-- did that for more than a decade on our coach with vinyl stripes.

While I agree that adding R134A is not rocket science, one should have a gauge set (low side and high side) and the knowhow to use them. Systems can suffer from overcharging as much as undercharging. Said another way, adding freon is not always the answer to poor dash A/C performance. Things like condenser fans, their relays and fuses are at least as common a cause of poor performance. If you are not familiar with working with automotive A/C systems and their pressures (over 250 PSI at higher ambient temperatures), leave it to a professional.

F.N. Here are details (and a clickable to pricing) of the FMCA Michelin Fleet Program: http://www.fmca.com/join-family-motor-coach-association/member-benefits/fmca-connections/3455

Suspect you are talking about bypassing the battery disconnect SOLENOID (the solenoid is controlled by the switch). No problem (as long as you know about amp draws on your battery) and easily done: Locate the disconnect solenoid. It will have two large lugs and either one or two small terminals. Mark all the wires on one of the large lugs and then move them to (add them to) the wires already on the other large lug. This is now the same electrically as the solenoid being ON all the time.

Walt, Your post puzzled me, so I just called Monaco Technical (877-466-6226). Spoke with Jason. I confirmed that the primary filter/water separator with 10-30 micron element IS first-- and he said was generally a Racor brand. With the secondary/fine filter being after the lift pump. He did say that some of these engine manufacturer supplied secondary filters could also have drains.

F.N.DeWester, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. With a 2005 coach, with a chassis likely built in 2004, there is no question, your tires are past their safe, useful life. To verify the tire age, on one sidewall of each tire (may be facing outward and easy to read, or facing inward) is the complete DOT number. The last 4 digits-- usually in a slightly different molded area, as that part of the number is changed every week indicate the WEEK and YEAR the tire was made.

No, here is the filter order: Fuel tank Primary filter/water separator (10-30 micron filter element) Lift pump/fuel pump Secondary filter (2-5 micron filter element) Injector pump/engine And, when changing filters, both should be changed. Which one will be clogged depends on the particle size of the contaminants. With algae, it can be both as the can clump into slimy black mess that clogs the primary as well as individual bodies that clog the secondary. You have said that the fuel was "treated properly". What algaecide did you use-- and in maintenance or kill dose?

You are describing "Fuel Polishing". It is common procedure on pleasure boats-- they also have algae from their diesel fuel being stored. Check with a local marina. Do you have one or two fuel filters? Are both being replaced if you have two? What are you finding in the filters when you change them? Are you using a Biocide such as BioborJF-- available at any marine store?

Yes, track bars (aka panhard rods) front and rear are a very worthwhile suspension upgrade on the W chassis.

2677way, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you have the Workhorse P or W chassis-- very different suspensions?

This video gives a lot of information: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LB5ZhvhXas

Kelly, You need to fully charge them and then load test them. What is your voltage at the battery (digital voltmeter) when on shore power or generator?

Kelly, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Start by verifying that your battery voltage is 12.0+ VDC. Below that, it is unlikely that the solenoid that the switch controls will work. If battery voltage is good, locate the solenoid that the switch controls and verify that it is working-- if you need "how too's" let us know.

What brand propane detector and solenoid valve did you have? Is the new one (detector) compatible signal-wise with the original solenoid?

Nancy, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Check out the "Files" section of this Safari Yahoo site (may have to join, but free-- like all the other Yahoo sites): https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/files And, if torsilastic suspension (aka Velvet Ride), be sure to check ride height (another of the files). It is important and very easy to check.

gmayfield, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, wiring a 30 amp 240 will "let a lot of smoke out". The refrigerator requires 12 VDC to operate the PC board-- whether on gas or 120 VAC. It is not uncommon for 240 to also take out the converter (which takes 120 VAC and produces 12 VDC to charge the batteries) which could lead to discharged batteries. So, start by verifying that you have 12+ VDC to the back of the refrigerator. Does the control panel for the refrigerator light up? Does the refrigerator operate on propane? If yes to the two above, with shore power disconnected, check the 120 VAC fuse on the refrigerator PC board.

Yes, locate it in a clean, dry area. Actually, anywhere that both chassis and house banks have connections close to each other.

Look under the chair for brand and model number and/or contact Monaco for that information. Then contact the chair maker and/or Monaco parts. Monaco: 877-466-6226 Be sure to have your VIN handy.

guiguilepagna, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A lot of the answer depends on what kind of motorhome/campervan you are considering. Classes on how to care for a Freightliner chassis Diesel Pusher will be mostly lost if you are looking at a small Class C based on Chevy or Ford van chassis.

Because metal stems are recommended by both TST and Pressure Pro (see my post above from their websites), let me suggest that we may have posts reflecting "best practices" vs "what I got away with". Certainly up to you which approach you take.

Alan, You are correct-- sensor weight varies by manufacturer. From TST's website http://tsttruck.com/faq/: "Do I need special valve stems? No, you do not need special valve stems, but you do need commonly available metal valve stems." "510 wireless sensor weighs 23 grams, and each 507 sensor weighs 13 grams" "510 sensor batteries last between 5 and 7 years and the 507 batteries are intended to be changed approximately every 10-12 months." This from the Pressure Pro website: SPECIFICATIONS SENSOR Sensor Transmit Range Approx. 300 feet (Line-of-Sight) Operating Frequency 433.92 MHz FM Operating Temperature Range -40°C / -40F to +150°C / 302F Sensor Weight 2/3 oz. or 17 grams Sensor Dimensions 1.01" H x 1.11" Dia. Pressure Pro recommends metal valve stems in their installation guide.

jaminman, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I'll get this started. First step is do determine from your chassis maker (Monaco in your case) the proper filter(s). Some have two filters-- a 10-30 micron PRIMARY and 2-5 micron SECONDARY. Others have only a single filter-- it will be 2-5 microns. This is an important step, as the filters look the same (except for part number) whether 2 or 30 micron. So, ask for the filters by part number, not "I need a fuel filter for my..." That way you are getting the proper micron filter(s). They can also tell you the proper changing procedure. I like to add a ball valve on the inlet side of the primary fuel filter (or only filter if a single filter system). Close it before changing the filter(s). If no valve and level of fuel in the tank is above the filter base, diesel will run out. If lower, you can end up with a real priming issue, as the fuel siphons all the way from the filter base back to the tank. This leaves you with 25+ feet of AIR in the fuel line. I know it is off-topic, but with your 4 bag Monaco/Roadmaster chassis, be sure you are aware of this safety issue: http://community.fmca.com/topic/570-serious-problem-on-some-monaco-holiday-rambler-safari-chassis/

The Monaco will likely be in the same range as your gas coach is now unless you drive over 65 MPH in which case it will be lower. The Monaco outboard air bag suspension is well-regarded. But if no tag axle, check that it is not over weight-- that is a heavy chassis and drive train. And, I would peg the ISB MPG at 9-11 MPG-- guess you could do 13 at 50 MPH on flat ground.