wolfe10

Roy, Please tell us what chassis/engine you have so we can better answer your question. Also, at what speed do you go into 6th gear (assume Allison 6 speed)?

Frank, Alternator should charge BOTH battery banks-- chassis and house. Easy to verify with a voltmeter. Check with engine off and then at each battery bank with engine running and at high idle. Both should be 14-14.2 VDC with engine running. On many coaches, the charger or converter (120 VAC to 12 VDC) only charges the house battery bank, not the chassis bank. Which bank is not being charged? And your mention of an inverter may not be the correct item-- an inverter takes 12 VDC and "inverts" it to 120 VAC. A converter, charger or inverter/charger takes 120 VAC and produces 12 VDC.

My numbers above were based on Medico's posting of GAWR's (did not have yours) and the assumption that "Tag on both-3700" meant 3700 total. So, will go back and recalculate based on your new numbers: Front axle: 7900 + 6500/14,300= 101% (i.e. axle slightly overloaded-- with left side well overweight: 7900/7150=107%) Drive axle: 7650 + 6600/20000= 71.3% Tag axle: 3700 + 3700/10000= 74% Conclusion-- lessen the weight on the tag, which will increase weight on the drive axle and lessen weight on the front axle. Next question: do you have two ride height valves on the front axle or on the drive axle (with the other axle having only one)? BTW, have set up a number of tag axle coaches-- several going back over the scales a couple of times (after each adjustment) to achieve close to the same percent on each axle-- the Monaco products are quite easy-- an easily adjustable valve in the engine room. Have not worked on your particular chassis.

So, Rich, exactly what was leaking (first post said compressor casting) and what part did they replace? Was it between engine and air compressor? Air compressor part? Air compressor to power steering pump?

See my post below, now that we have correct GAWR's and correct tag axle weights.

Correct. Tell us how far into the "running on propane" cycle you get. Remove the outside access door and look/listen for the following when someone switches refrigerator from 120 VAC to propane): Do you hear the igniter "clicking"-- for how long (directly at the bottom of the round, vertical "chimney"? Can you feel the gas valve click as it opens (follow the propane line from coach to the valve-- place a finger on it-- should feel a "click" when it opens)? Does a flame appear-- if so, for how long (look in from an angle into the burner area-- particularly easy at night-- look for blue flame)?

Dave, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not sure there is "one vehicle fits all". Many (including myself) two a small, light, manual transmission vehicle (Ford Focus). Others like the off road capability of Jeeps. Others need larger vehicles. Here is a list of 2014 vehicles (actually you can access any model year for the last 10) to see what is towable 4 wheels down: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-guides-towing-four-wheels-down

Bruce, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us your GAWR's (Gross Axle Weight Ratings). Basic starting point is for each axle to be loaded to the same percent of its GAWR. Some tag axles are easy to change the loading, others very difficult (depends on how the chassis maker set them up).

With the presence of algae (the black slimy stuff), you need to add a kill dose of BIOCIDE. Any marine store will have it. Biobor FJ is a common product. Carry extra filters-- the biocide will kill the algae, but you still have to filter out the existing gunk. To minimize algae, keep the tank full when storing it and if storing over 2 months in the summer or 3 in the winter, add a biocide.

To add to Rich's suggestions: You said the alignment shop set tire pressure correctly-- did they have the wheel position or axle weights? If not, how did they determine correct PSI. Per the Michelin Inflation table http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv_en_us/tires-retreads/load-inflation-tables.jsp correct PSI could be 75 or 120. Improper inflation (for your load) can sure cause drivability issues.

We really need more information. Is this on a FRED chassis (Freightliner Front Engine Diesel)? A diesel pusher? Air suspension?

And, the ISL is the only engine that could be ordered with either an exhaust brake (less expensive) or an engine compression brake. Don't know which the OP has.

It is always difficult to know what advice to give on serious mountain drives. If an old hand at mountain driving and your rig is properly maintained, a beautiful route. But (big but) this is not a route for those just learning mountain driving in a heavy vehicle. It is not the "beginners slope"! Remember, your service brakes (brake pedal) should NEVER be used for controlling your speed of descent. If use of exhaust brake/engine brake and transmission gears is not enough to keep your speed in check, get on the service brakes firmly and long enough to drop to another gear. Repeat until your speed is in equilibrium. Physics dictates that your equilibrium speed will be faster than a loaded 18 wheeler, slower than an empty one.

Sorry, I have no idea. Could be something like an "antenna up" or "slide out" warning, or could be something causing the engine to throw a code. If engine, first suspect is low coolant sensor (if it has one).

There are a number of RV storage facilities around the city. We live in League City (south of Houston) and there are several down here. Most are covered or enclosed and with 15 amp service. It is certainly possible that one would be willing to rent for a week. Would be both secure and allow you to keep refrigerator and batteries maintained.

David, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What area of Houston does your daughter live in-- it is a big city and our recommendations could be 50 miles from her house. Also, do you need/want covered parking? Electricity?

RVSEF's schedule: http://rvsafety.com/weighing-schedule/ Much better, as they weigh each wheel position.

leo52, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Here is an in-depth discussion on the XRV vs XZE: http://community.fmca.com/topic/3926-xze-vs-xrv-tires/

lloydfry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What chassis you you have? Have you identified whether the play is in the steering box or linkage? If not, easily done. Have a helper (engine off) turn the wheel side to side/back and forth while you look for any linkage between steering box and right tire that have play. If none there, it is in the steering box. Some HD steering boxes are adjustable, many are not. What brand and model steering box do you have?

James, Before spending $$$, do a simple check: With engine running, check voltage at the lights. Compare with voltage at the battery. With engine running, voltage at the battery should be around 14 VDC. If voltage at the lights is more than about .7 VDC lower, all you may need it to get the voltage up where it should be. For under $15, you can use a RELAY and INLINE FUSE and just use your head light switch to make/break the relay. Let us now what you find.

Many RV dealers and some banks keep old NADA books. Call around-- someone will have older issues.

Kay, While that statement DOES apply to licensing, it does NOT apply to weight restrictions, brake requirements, speed limits, length restrictions, etc. Each state sets these requirements that apply to all vehicles in that state irrespective of state of license.

Tim, I would start with the simple stuff first. Remove the aerator on each sink and make sure they are not clogged.

OK, just an observation: Both Caterpillar and Cummins recommend AGAINST any of the oiled filters. Yes, they let in more air, but also more dirt. And, certainly in Caterpillar's case, they have no "skin in the game"-- they do not sell air filters for any of our applications. BTW, what are your air filter minder readings that are leading you toward other filter choices? I do agree that restriction in the intake system of a diesel should be addressed, but that is what the air filter minder does-- alerts you to a problem.

An easy solution where a high amp light is substituted for a low amp one is to wire the new ones through a RELAY, with the old power wire merely closing the relay. A $12 solution for relay and inline fuse (on new larger positive wire).