wolfe10

bdawson, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. In most cases, the dip stick and dip stick tube were chassis maker items, not engine maker. So, check with Monaco Corp using your VIN to find out if a replacement is available and what is involved in removing the old one. Their number is: 877-466-6226. May be as simple as removing the dip stick tube from the engine and just replacing the seal/gasket to get the old one out. Be sure to keep the cap on the tube or zip tie a baggie over it to keep dirt out of the engine.

Agree with Walt. Replace both fuel filters. Smell the diesel. Does it smell like diesel, or has it "turned". If turned, it will need to be replaced. While you watch the throttle at the engine, with the engine off, have someone step on the throttle. Verify that the throttle is opening all the way.

jagmoor, Please tell us how many days you want to be on the road between SA and Orange Beach. If you know when you will leave, that will also help. As an example, there is a weekly event in Eunice LA every Saturday night at the Liberty Theater. Brett

Tom is absolutely correct. But a lot of PC boards and sail switch have been replaced that were perfectly good. Go through all the diagnostics rather than throwing parts at it. A loose or corroded connection where 12 VDC does into the furnace or a duct in the basement crushed by a box can cause the same symptoms as a PC board.

Ed, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Actually the board would NOT be one if the first things I would suspect with your symptoms. You have a SAIL SWITCH that closes when it senses adequate air flow. If that doesn't happen, there will be no gas valve opening or ignition sparking. Causes of sail switch not closing: Low voltage at the furnace causing the fan speed to be too low. Restriction in air return causing restricted air flow. Restriction from crushed air duct and/or closed heater vents.

Patsy, How long since it has run successfully? When you remove the air cleaner, and try to start, does the gasoline spell like gasoline or like it has "turned"? Small carburetors are very easy to clog if the gas sits in them for a long time.

Patsy, If you have trouble finding a post you made, just go do any of your posts. "Click" on your name (patsy613). On the right top of the page that brings up is "Find Content". That will show you all the posts you have made. Brett

Lori, NO, wet weight does not include any of your "stuff". If you travel very light, it COULD be close. But, I would not count on it. Also, many manufacturers rely on a "base" and others on an "average" motorhome when posting the actual weights. If you confirm with your motorhome manufacturer that these are actual weights for your particular coach with all the things it was ordered with from the factory and add any dealer installed options and then you add everything you have put on board, you might reduce pressure in the tires a little, but I would sure not go down to "wet weight" PSI without actually weighting.

See if any of these locations work for you: http://rvsafety.com/weighing-schedule/

Mark, Yes, until you get it weighed (4 wheel position better than just axles, as it is not reasonable to ASSUME perfect left/right weight distribution in an RV) and set tire pressures accordingly, not a bad idea to use the PSI on the GVWR plate. The pressures ASSUMES each axle is loaded to its maximum axle capacity (GAWR). If your actual weights are well under that, indeed you could be overinflating. But that is preferable to underinflating.

Mark, When you say the tires are "pressured up", are they inflated to Goodyear's recommendation for your actual coach weights? That may be well under the PSI to carry the maximum load, which is what is stamped on the sidewall. And, if they are way over-inflated, that would certainly reduce traction.

Gkleinhe, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Hopefully someone else with the same coach will respond. Until then, here is the "generic" answer. The switch likely controls the battery disconnect RELAY/SOLENOID. Usually very near the house batter bank. Follow the large gauge positive battery cable from house bank. If you find it and need info on troubleshooting, let us know.

Steve, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you sure they are 285's-- an odd size. 275 and 295 are far more common?

No.

With voltage varying as you describe, it sounds like the Toad Charge is cycling rather than providing its full "up to 10 amps). A simple alternative is to use a simple relay to supply the toad battery. Fuse at each battery. From fuse at chassis battery (or place near back of coach with full alternator output voltage) to relay. Ignition hot source to close relay. When ignition on, relay supplies power to the toad. Total cost under $20.

Particularly if you have an aluminum CAC or radiator, a STRONG caution against strong chemicals/non-aluminum friendly chemicals. Simple Green does make an aluminum-friendly cleaner used for aluminum aircraft: http://www.simplegreen.com/solutions_faqs.php?search_query=aluminum

Installation time is virtually the same for any engine-- it is access to the turbo/exhaust brake area that determines now difficult the installation will be. Took me about 45 minutes on our coach, but I had full engine access (fore/aft queen bed that raises).

Rather than speculate on "how old is too old" based on how WE care for OUR tires, we really have to know how they were cared for ON YOUR COACH during their life. Clearly the following help determine the safe and useful like of an RV tire: Tire inflation always above minimum speced by the tire manufacturer for actual weight. Driven frequently (better) or parked for months at a time? Stored indoors, under cover or outdoors? When stored outdoors, are the tires covered? I have seen 5 year old tires I would not drive across town on and seen some years older than that that were still in good condition.

Pink, The term "up to 10 amps" is the real issue. Just before you hook up and start towing next time, use a digital voltmeter to check voltage at the toad battery-- record it. Then after towing long enough for the indicator to tell you toad battery voltage is low, with the DP engine still on, go back and use a digital voltmeter to check voltage at the toad battery. That will tell you whether the Toad Charge is providing adequate wattage (volts times amps) to keep the battery charged for both auxiliary brake (if electric) and your lights. If not, start by verifying connections all the way from coach battery to toad battery. Are you tied directly to the coach chassis battery? If not, where?

We have the PRXB on our Caterpillar 3126 and do recommend it. It is exactly as advertised-- 30% stronger at lower RPM-- the same at high end RPM. What it does is allow full backpressure at a much lower RPM. No idea of current cost of the brake. Installation if you already have a PacBrake should not be that much, IF (big if) there is access to the driver's side of your engine room where the exhaust brake is located. My suggestion would be to access that area and take pictures before asking for labor bids, as I have seen applications where the mechanic spent hours just removing one bolt and others where he could sit on the valve cover and do the whole job in an hour.

dgrandusky, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Three places come to mind for warmth-- FL, south TX and AZ. Of course they would be via very different routes. Any preference?

Paul, Tell us where you will be flying in/starting the trip and points along the way that are "must see's" and perhaps we can offer suggestions. Also, tell us what kind of things interest you.

Megann, You need to verify that with the water heat breaker off that the charger section of your inverter/charger does not work. The only explanation I can think of is that they wired both the water heater AND the inverter/charger to the same breaker on your 120 VAC breaker panel. That would not be a good idea! Please verify that you have a separate breaker for each. If they are on the same breaker, you need to see if there is another available breaker of the correct amp rating that can be used, or if there is a block-off plate where you can add another breaker. IF YOU ARE NOT SAFE WORKING WITH 120 VAC, HAVE THIS DONE BY A PRO. If they are on a separate breaker, you need to troubleshoot the reason that the turning off one breaker affects another circuit. Brett

Agree, something else is going on. Your electric 120 VAC element in the water heater should NOT be running through the inverter/charger. So, unless it is diminishing voltage or drawing sufficient amperage to open the breaker, I can't see the relationship.

Megann, Pull out your Xantrex owners manual or pull it up online. Go to "programming" or "setting dip switches" (depends on age of inverter). One of the programming options is "power share" or "power save". What it does is limit the amps that the inverter/charger can use for battery charging. Lowest setting is generally 5 amps. Try that. And, at high amp demands, particularly if minimal size house wiring and/or an extension cord, voltage can drop below acceptable levels. Check voltage with a digital voltmeter at any outlet in the coach when this occurs. Acceptable voltage range 108- 132 VAC (120 VAC +/- 10%). And, lastly make sure no other high amp draws are running. Things not easily seen like 120 VAC water heater element, block heater, etc. Brett