wolfe10

John, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are several good discussions on TPMS's here on the Forum. Here is a good one to start with: http://community.fmca.com/topic/6192-which-tire-pressure-monitoring-system-is-best/

Yes, I STRONGLY believe (and teach at the Seminars I give at Rallies for the http://www.dieselrvclub.org/ and Caterpillar Engine Maintenance Seminars at FMCA Conventions that one is responsible for keeping up with what needs to be done as far as Preventive Maintenance on their rig. That is not to say that one needs to do it-- it can be 100% hired out, do it all yourself or a combination. But the point is YOU need to know what needs to be done and when. BTW, air dryers are a critical safety item (think air brakes). Use only FACTORY parts, not knock-offs from overseas. Read on the box!

On a diesel, a good way to check for exhaust leaks is to look for BLACK-- the soot left from combustion. A good flashlight is the only "tool" you need.

Yes, both 255/70R22.5 and 255/80R22.5 are available.

A/C compressor clutch bearing is easy to diagnose. The noise will be different with dash A/C ON vs OFF.

Ron, Is this a constant noise? Only does it for the first few minutes? Only under certain conditions? Does it change with RPM?

Frank, There were some posts in answer to your earlier query: http://community.fmca.com/topic/6254-water-pump-no-power/

Clay is correct-- the issue is with the fiberglass, not paint. The only real "solution" was whole exterior side wall replacement.

Watched the video. Just an extra gauge to tell you when to "lightly fan" the service brake pedal to lower pressure to CUT-IN pressure so the governor turns on the compressor until it reaches CUT-OUT pressure.

Jim is absolutely correct. The governor controls the air pressure produced by the engine-driven compressor between the CUT-IN pressure on the low side and CUT-OUT pressure on the high side. With the engine running (so the compressor can run) if you need PSI toward the higher setting (cut-out pressure) have an assistant in the driver's seat. When pressure drops more than 10 PSI below cut-out pressure, have them lightly fan the brake pedal to quickly drop pressure to cut-in pressure where the compressor will again build pressure to cut-out pressure. Brett

YES. If there is no quick disconnect, you will need to fit one. Then male hose end and 50' hose with fitting to match the quick disconnect-- there are several styles that look similar but are not. Then other end with "dual foot chuck" to fill tires.

Sorry, btchart-- no experience with them. We have Centramatics on all wheel positions.

Open the basement, particularly left side just in front of rear wheels. Have someone turn it on and open a faucet. That would be my first suspect.

If you can not troubleshoot 120 VAC to the inverter/charger (so it can charge the batteries) there are two "Plan B's): 1. Start coach engine (even if you have to use jumper cables from your toad to do it) and let the alternator charge the batteries-- use high idle. 2. Use a stand alone battery charger directly on the house batteries. Brett

Tim gave you a good start. While on shore power, your inverter should not be powering your 120 VAC circuits. The shore power should be "passed through" the inverter and, when the inverter/charger sees 120 VAC from shore power or generator, the charger section also kicks in. So, if the inverter is, indeed "inverting" to supply 120 VAC, either the inverter is not receiving 120 VAC from your coach main breaker panel, or you have a problem with the inverter/charger. Turn off and back on the inverter breaker(s) on your 120 VAC main breaker panel. If that doesn't do it, you will need someone safe working around 120 VAC to check for 120 VAC at the inverter and/or the inverter itself.

Actually, Mobil 1 makes several different oils-- most are for gasoline engines (large or small), but they also have oils for diesels:http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.aspx

No problem with a "catch bottle" as long as (really important) it does not restrict air flow. As an example many diesels have a 1" ID crankcase breather hose. If you have any kind of "filter media" such as course bronze wool the bottle it will need to be several times the size of the breather. Said another way, a 16 oz plastic drink container is too small. Also, if you are getting much oil from the breather, first suspect is that the crankcase is overfilled with oil. Diesel engines "puke" excess oil until their "natural oil level" is reached, then flow virtually stops. And as Bill mentioned, another very good option is to extend the breather hose to behind the fan shroud so oil vapor will not be sucked in by the fan and blown into the CAC and radiator. Many chassis makers did this when the chassis was built and/or have retrofit kits to do it.

Yes. And, if there isn't one, use fiberglass or other waterproof material to direct air flow from back top of refrigerator to top of top vent. This keeps hot air from accumulating at the top of the refrigerator compartment. Brett

Another common issue (assuming bypass valves are completely open to the water heater) is for minerals to restrict flow through the check valve at the back of the water heater.

Yup, common issue (assuming bypass valves are completely open to the water heater) is for minerals to restrict flow through the check valve at the back of the water heater.

Any major lifestyle change is a "crap-shoot." Some adapt more easily, some are more rigid-- neither is right or wrong, just better/worse fit. Doesn't matter if you are talking about full timing in an RV, sailboat or moving to a foreign country. I am not sure there is a "10 steps" to evaluating how you would adapt to the change. I don't see renting an RV (or chartering a sail boat) as "representative of the lifestyle". It would still be all new to you, you would be in the steepest part of the learning curve, etc. Wish I could offer more assurance. BTW, Dianne and I have done two year sailing trips as well as roughly half of each year now in the motorhome. Dianne will not give up here land base, so for us full timing (right now) would not work. Not good or bad -- just what works for us.

If it is the cooling unit that is overloading the breaker, buy a new one. I like the quality of the Uline and will pay more for it.

Gerald, What is not working: Is it is not cooling? Not filling with water? Issues with the the ice mold?

Let me start over in answering this. A converter takes 120 VAC and "converts" it to 13.0-14.5 VDC to bring the batteries to full charge and then maintain them at the preset level. The preset level really depends on whether it is a smart charger or a "dumb one". Dumb ones pretty much keep a constant voltage applied-- generally in the 13.2-13.5 VDC range. A smart charger will start out at higher voltage if the batteries are discharged and then taper off to a lower voltage after the batteries are fully charged. So, a converter normally WILL run all the time-- supplying constant voltage. The amount of current (amps) it sends to the batteries depends on the draw-- once the batteries are charged, they will pretty much match their output to compensate for your electrical use. To evaluate the converter, use a digital voltmeter (they start under $20 at any auto parts house, Radio Shack, etc). Tell us voltage at the batteries with converter off (or shore power and generator off) and then with it on. And, as Rich said, if we know the brand and model we can give you more specific information. Brett

Just a reminder, the vast majority of dirt, oil and grease is on the front of the CAC. That, far more than the back of the radiator is what needs to be cleaned. If cleaning from the back were able to clean the front of the CAC, it would send all that "gunk" onto the engine's front, alternator, water pump, belts, etc. Not sure that would be a very good idea.