wolfe10

You gave him good advice. For decades it has been well-publicized that the best method for determining correct tire pressure is: Load coach as it goes down the road with full fuel, people, etc. Weight each wheel position. Use the heavier wheel position on each axle to go to the tire manufacturer's inflation table to determine THE CORRECT MINIMUM PSI. Most of us add 5 PSI or so to that MINIMUM so a sudden drop in temperature (like is happening across the country right now) or a BIG Walmart shopping trip will not put you under-inflated. The only time the "other guy's" advice would be accurate is if indeed he IS loaded to GAWR on each axle. Did you ask to see his bowling ball collection or his wife's rock collection or did he just buy an overloaded coach to begin with???

What PSI is listed on the GAWR sticker which is likely near the driver's area?

NO, what is on the sidewall of the tire is the PSI needed to CARRY THE MAXIMUM design load (which will also be on the sidewall). That may or may not be the correct PSI for the tires carrying the ACTUAL LOAD ON YOUR COACH. A reasonable place to start if you do not have the actual weights is to look at your GVWR sticker which is usually by the driver's area. That will give you the recommended PSI if (OK BIG IF) both axles are loaded to their Gross Axle Weight Rating. Hopefully, your actual weight is well less than that which would mean you have a reasonable safety reserve between actual weight and weight rating.

bjohnsonav8r, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I did a quick search here on the FMCA Forum for "Ready Brake" and found these posts: https://community.fmca.com/search/?q="Ready Brute "&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy&search_and_or=or

As I mentioned, if one looks just in the center of the fan shroud from above (easy as that is where the fan blades are narrowest) it looks clean. Again, this is the FRONT (front of coach) side of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler). It "filters" the debris sucked up by the fan. So, cleaning from the back (back of the RADIATOR) is not very effective at removing debris from the front of the CAC. To clean this off the front of the CAC from the back of the coach, pressure washer/steam cleaner would have to have enough PSI to go through the radiator, air gap and CAC and still have enough force to knock the stuck on dirt from the front of the CAC. That PSI would likely bend the fins on the radiator! When they get this bad, it requires pulling the radiator and CAC to clean. Annual cleaning is necessary to avoid this expensive repair.

ABSOLUTELY! Get a strong flash light and access the top of the engine (bedroom or closet). Shine the flashlight past the fan blades/inside the fan shroud. Loot at the perimeter, not in the center (the fan blades sling the debris to the perimeter. Let us know what you find. In most cases the FRONT of the CAC needs to be cleaned annually. A garden hose nozzle and Simple Green EXTREME (aluminum friendly) works well. BTW, sent you an e-mail with picture of clogged CAC that owner though was clean because he was only able to see the center.

Lenp, Wow, 160 sounds cold for an ISL. Might want to confirm that with Cummins for your engine serial number.

Keigm, Many truck stops have scales to allow axle weights to be determined. A good "intermediate" step. SO, until you get any weighing done, go by the GVWR sticker in the coach (assumes each axle loaded to GAWR). Next best is to get axle weights. Add a fudge factor for left/right imbalance and go to your tire manufacturer's inflation table to determine correct minimum PSI. Then after individual wheel position weighing in Tucson, use the heavier wheel position on each axle to go to your tire manufacturer's inflation table.

Link to Liquid Spring: https://liquidspring.com/ford-f-53-suspension/

cnweeds64, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. They both reduce swaying, but in very different ways. The Sumo springs add to the effective spring rate, so less sway, but, also affect ride quality. If underloaded (actual weight under GAWR's) this could give you a stiffer ride. If close to or overloaded, it will help with ride quality as you will not bottom out as easily. Sway bars and stiffer sway bar bushings abosolutely help with sway with no change in ride quality/stiffness. So, first question is what are your actual axle weights Vs GAWR's?

Yes, it us undersized for your weight when compared with other current generation DP's. But, the 6.7 Cummins B with Allison 3000 transmission is a pretty bomb-proof drive train. Counterpoint: Dianne and I put over 150,000 miles on a 250 HP Caterpillar 3116 in our 36' Foretravel all over North America including some outrageous mountain driving in central Mexico-- no complaints. And, particularly on flat roads (Houston to Baton Rouge) engine size is not that relevant. I don' have specific specs for total wheel demand HP for 36,000 pounds, but here are the numbers for 60 MPH 30,000 GCW 126 HP 40,000 GCW 134 HP So on flat ground you are NOT stressing your drive train. I would still ask what triggers high fan speed-- it may very well be off an engine output and may be adjustable. 18 degrees delta is more than I would like to see on my coach.

OK with that info: https://cdn.fccchq.com/specsheets/2016-Newmar-Ventana.pdf 1335 cubic-in, rear-mounted radiatorRemote-mounted water to oil Belt-driven with viscous fan clutch. So, the question I would ask is what input is there that engages the viscous hub fan to HIGH? Is 18 degrees F acceptable or would I be better off with a10 degree delta between thermostat fully open and fan to high?

Contact your chassis builder for their spec on delta between thermostat fully open and cut in temperature for fans to HIGH. 18 degrees sounds high to me, but you DO want some delta. If insufficient delta, you are paying HP and MPG to run fans on high more than necessary. Also, ask them for details on the controller for fan speed-- it is possible that it is adjustable. Ideal delta IMO would be around 10 degrees F.

Guess I am confused. What do directional traction tires have to do with the OP's steer tires?

I take "inside to outside" to mean remove the tire from the rim and rotate the tire. Mount is so what was originally toward the outside is now inboard.

As Joe said, the screws in the ATS and 120 VAC breaker box need to be retorqued as part of an annual coach service. As they get loose, that creates resistance which creates heat which loosens the connection more.......................

Could be a loose or broken fan motor mount. Could be a squirrel cage hitting the housing. Turn off breaker to the A/C and check it out (from the roof). If you are not safe working on the roof, have a professional do it.

We will need more information to be able to help you. What is the noise-- either what component or what does it sound like? Is it still there if the fan is on, but compressor off? What brand/model is it? What is voltage? Any sign of physical damage?

Unless the temperature where the tank is located (may be in a heated basement, may not) is below freezing for more than a few hours, freezing of the water in the tank will not be an issue. Yes, full is better. BUT, what freezes first is the plumbing/small pipes where cold air can be exposed to smaller volumes of water (less BTU's to removed to cause freezing. If below freezing, either use your built in basement heater, or add a safe heating source. Even a 100 watt light bulb will often do the trick.

Most smart chargers/smart inverter-chargers will NOT try to charge a severely discharged battery, This is a safety issue. You will need to use a "stupid" charger to begin the process. Once they are charged past extremely deeply discharged, the smart charger should take over.

Correct. Algae grows at the water/diesel interface. An issue for pleasure boats and RV's because of condensation. OTR trucks rarely/never have their tanks below the dew point so little/no condensation. That is why I STRONGLY recommend two things if you store diesel fuel: Tank full to reduce condensation. If storing diesel over 2 months in summer or 3 in winter, add a biocide. A popular one is https://www.biobor.com/products/biobor-jf-diesel/ Yup, you will find it at most marine stores, very few truck stops. Makes sense.

Nan, Check to make sure that your water heater bypass valve (for winterizing) is fully closed. if not, water can bypass the water heater.

Nightcrawler, The Freightliner chassis build sheet shows a 160 amp alternator. https://cdn.fccchq.com/specsheets/5b7abfafcf1da258f28db094/2010-Tiffin-Phaeton.pdf As long as you don't start with deeply discharged batteries, that should be just fine for running the loads you describe. If you see voltage dropping below 13.0 on either battery bank while driving at highway speeds, I would suggest having the alternator checked out.

What coach/chassis? Do you know the alternator rating (in amps)? What did the house battery voltage read when the inverter turned off (from inverter remote panel or other means of determining voltage? What did the chassis battery (dash gauge) read? Any other high amp loads-- either 120 VAC from the inverter or high amp 12 VDC loads (like driving lights plus dash A/C and fan on high, etc at the same time)?

Nightcrawler, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your alternator charges your chassis and house batteries while driving. As long as alternator output exceeds the draw on the batteries (and any charging if the batteries are discharged) you are good to go. You could drive as long as you desire as long as the above is true. If batteries are deeply discharged (like when dry camping) you may want to run the generator to bulk charge the batteries before relying on the alternator to supply all your needs.