wolfe10

In a word, NO. 12 VDC controls the PC board AND opens the propane valve and powers the ignitor, etc. No way to do this without 12 VDC.

Neither Caterpillar nor Cummins say any of their engines need an additive other than for storage (biocide) or use of summer grade fuel in winter (anti-gel). Can you find them-- sure.

Yes, 10.5 VDC indicates either a bad battery or excessive loads for the size battery you have. If you are not running other 12 VDC things, then, indeed, replace the battery before it costs you a PC board. Brett

Refrigerator PC boards are expensive. A battery will keep voltage from going above (daytime) and below (nighttime) board tolerances.

Don, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you have manual or automatic jacks-- what model? Exactly what happens when you deploy the jacks? Does the jack motor run at normal RPM, but stop before truly leveled? Does the motor RPM drop? Other? Brett

Phil, I would STRONGLY recommend that you replace that old regulator-- they are under $25. Even if you use a manometer to set it, you are still working with very old gaskets/diaphragms. Not worth the risk with propane.

We are on our second coach with Safe-T-Plus. Appreciate both the "return to center", hydraulic dampening, and the dampening assistance in the event of a front tire blowout. BTW, please let us know what chassis you have.

Les, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, each state has their own requirements as far as toad weight limits without a supplemental braking system. But, it is my understanding that in Canada you must have one, ever on lighter toads. BTW, the 2009 FMCA Towing Guide shows the empty weight of the Honda Fit at 2,489. Brett

Phil, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You are correct, you do not need 12 VDC for your 2 way model. Two things come to mind-- the first is that you mention: "Ventilation has never changed, and has lots of space." That is NOT the optimum installation. From the document above, 1" is the proper rear clearance, with zero on sides and top. More than 1" in back allows turbulence rather than smooth air flow up over the cooling unit. Have you cleaned the propane jet as well as burner tube? Even a spec of dust can restrict gas flow and therefore total BTU's available for "cooling". And, it is very difficult to tell the proper "flame height" by looking at it. Better to check propane pressure with a manometer or just replace the regulator (around $20).

djbreithaupt, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, the placement of your air dryer makes servicing very difficult-- same for all of that vintage's Freightliner chassis. You have two choices-- replace with a FACTORY (not aftermarket) REMAN DRYER, or get the rebuild kit that has filter's in it. I would not consider cutting a hole in the bottom of the coach. Brett

Just ask which chassis it is on-- 8 outboard air bags (you can see them in front of and behind each wheel position) is FAR superior to the 4 inboard air bag chassis (air bags under frame rail well inboard of wheels).

Would be interesting to know if the two negative comments on the chassis is the same chassis as the coach you are considering. As I mentioned above, the 8 outboard air bag suspension is COMPLETELY different (and much better respected) than the 4 air bag suspension or Torsilastic suspension. Brett

Jamie, If you will be "migrating south" this winter, strongly consider attending the FMCA Convention in Perry GA in the spring. An excellent opportunity to attend free seminars on virtually all the systems in your coach. A great learning experience. http://www.fmca.com/conventions/future-dates

Rob, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Quite likely you have several different issues. Start with checking RIDE HEIGHT. That will correct the level issue and can certainly have an affect on pulling/wander. You can get the specs from your chassis maker and/or chassis owner's club site. And, with the new tires, have the front ones checked for RUN-OUT and then balanced-- preferably balanced on the coach. Then a good alignment. You have too much money in a coach like that to not have it a joy to drive. Brett

Gary, Would be quite interested in their explanation for WHY both turbos are bad.

Never heard of A (i.e. ONE) circuit board that controls all these devices. What they DO have in common is that they all operate on 12 VDC. So, first step is to verify 12+ VDC at the batteries. If plugged in or generator on, voltage (with converter or charger on should be 13.2-14.0 with the higher number being for a smart charger with discharged batteries. If voltage at the batteries is OK, move to the refrigerator (outside access door) and check there. That is the easiest of the PC boards to access, and I suspect having the refrigerator work is probably job one. Let us know what you find. BTW, if you don't have a digital voltmeter-- get one right now-- you can find them starting at $10. Troubleshooting without one is virtually impossible. Brett

Jamie, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. That is how many of us fulfill our "Bucket List"-- be it sailing, RV'ing, foreign travel, etc. You are in good company. To make becoming familiar with your RV and its systems a quicker (and less painful/expensive) process, start by reading ALL the manuals that came with our coach. With the assistance of the previous owners (sounds like you have more access to them than many buyers), assemble the "what preventive maintenance is needed" and do it/get it done. That will help keep long-term costs down. Example, changing engine coolant is a lot less expensive than waiting until it has turned acidic and you now need to replace the radiator. And, don't hesitate to ask questions here on the Forum. Each one of us started as a newbie! Brett

Best is to get another 30 amp RV cord and only adapt down to the 15/20 at the very end (house outlet) end of the cord. We carry our 50 and two 30 amp RV cords-- the two 30's are our "extension cords".

Dazzreds, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. In that era, Safari was owned by Monaco Corp and the Safari models are very similar to Monaco and Holiday Rambler products of the same vintage and "model hierarchy". First question would be which chassis it is on-- the 8 outboard air bag suspension is preferable.

If a manual transmission, no problem. Automatic transmission Focuses of that era were NOT towable 4 wheels down.

The operative issue here is "what is voltage at the A/C" on that 20 amp circuit with extension cord? THAT will determine if you are damaging the A/C. 120 +/- 10% is spec. So as long as voltage at the A/C is 108 or above, go for it.

To follow up on Bill's post, on one sidewall of each tire is the COMPLETE DOT number. The last 4 digits of the complete DOT number indicate the WEEK and YEAR the tire was produced. These last 4 digits are usually in a slightly raised/lowered area, as that part of the tire mold has to be changed weekly. Also look for any cracks in the sidewalls or tread area. Basically, if you can get your fingernail in the cracks, you need to replace the tires. Tires on an RV are very rarely replaced because of treadwear. The vast majority are replaced due to age and age cracking from sitting.

No, Caterpillar is no longer producing engines for any on-road applications with the exception of their joint venture for vocational trucks.

Herman, Depends on how the engine is used just prior to that shut down. If you have driven on city streets, into a CG, etc (i.e. light throttle) you are ready for an immediate shut down. Certainly, by the time you have checked in and arrive at your site, you are good to immediately shut it off. If you just climbed a long 5% grade and pulled off in an overlook vista at the top-- it DOES need cool down time.

Frozen up is one of the "best" failures you can have. It is when blades or parts of blades come off and continue in the intake system that turbo failure can get expensive. I am sure when he removed it that he checked carefully for any evidence of blade failure. One of the prime causes of turbo bearing failure (seizing up) is shutting off the engine without allowing 2-3 minutes for the turbo to spool down and cool off. This can cause the oil to "cook", and the carbon deposits can block adequate oil flow to the turbo bearings. Be sure the tech checks both supply and return line to make sure they are clean and open.