wolfe10

Allison: 800 252 5283

I don't know what engine you have, but if the belt ONLY runs the A/C you can remove it. Obviously, if it runs other accessories such as alternator or water pump, you can not. But, if your A/C system is in good condition, you should run it occasionally to keep the seals lubricated.

If it is a permanently installed tank, from a government standpoint--NO. From a safety standpoint, probably not a bad idea.

What coach year, make and model? Is this just one small area or multiple areas?

Yes, no surprises. Under 2600 pounds and drives well, good MPG.

Have you used this shift pad to check for diagnostic codes? What does it tell you? This is in your Allison manual and on Allison's website.

Just curious-- where did you read "no"??? We tow a 2008 Focus manual transmission-- no issues at all. put the key in. Turn it to accessory and back to off and leave it in. Put the transmission in neutral and tow away. BTW, that is exactly what the owners manual says.

Here is the FMCA Fleet Michelin pricing: http://www.fmca.com/images/stories/pdf/michelin-prices.pdf Program details: http://www.fmca.com/join-family-motor-coach-association/member-benefits/fmca-connections/3455

Alan, We had the Xantrex TrueCharge 40+ in our last coach. An excellent smart charger. It will both supply coach needs and "smartly" charge the batteries (up to three separate banks).

Ocglass, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what coach you have (GCW= Gross Combined Weight) if you have it. Also, what engine and transmission you have. What techniques/mechanical changes have you made in search of more MPG? What MPG do you get-- best to look at average over several thousand miles? What speed do you drive? Mostly flat land, hills or mountains?

No problem. All states recognize other state's drivers licenses. But, you DO have to comply with any vehicle restrictions as you go through each state (things like max length, speed, weight, etc).

Yes, best advice is to pull your jack system manual (or access it on-line). Start by using the proper fluid and procedure (jacks stowed, etc) to fill to the proper level. If that does not do it, please give us specific information on exactly what system you have.

Jason, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There are basically three types of coolants: "Regular coolant" like you will find at most Walmarts, Auto parts houses, etc. Good for cars-- NOT FOR HEAVY DUTY DIESEL ENGINES. "Low silicate for diesel coolant with added SCA (Supplemental Cooling Additive). What came in your cooling system. SCA must be tested for and added (it is used up as it protects your cylinder liners). The coolant cartridge can come with varying quantities of SCA from zero (see below)-- 4 units is a common maintenance dose. Again, TEST, don't just add SCA. Three year life. The new generation OAT based coolants. Double the life of the low silicate coolants with no checking and adding SCA. Only add a maintenance dose if driven over 300,000 miles during its 6 year life. Yes, this is the one many of us have gone to. With a Cummins engine, I would consider Fleetguard (Cummins brand) ES Complet OAT. If a Caterpillar, Caterpillar ELC. Can't tell you what hydraulic fluid is in yours-- ATF, hydraulic fluid and engine oil are all possibilities. You do need to find out what is in YOURS-- not listen to what is in OURS (my last coach used Delo 400 15-40, present coach ATF). There are also filter/filters in the hydraulic system that need to be changed every couple of years.

Trainersusan, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Lets divide this into the various systems. Are your lights 12 VDC or 120 VAC? Have you checked for power at the CG outlet? Turned off and back on the CG breaker(s)? Sounds like you may have an inverter that is supplying some circuits (from your house battery bank)-- is that true? If you have confirmed shore power at the CG outlet is good, have you turned off and back on the main and individual breakers in your coach 120 beaker box? If you have a surge protector (or similar) that is another point of failure. What works/does not work when you turn on your generator? Advice for the future-- when an electrical storm is approaching, it is a VERY good idea to disconnect from shore power. That way you are isolated from near-by strikes that spike the electrical grid. If disconnected, only a direct strike or one very close can harm your equipment.

Paul, Yes, the A/C draws slightly less power on low. But, only slightly less. But whether you can run two on 30 amp service depends on a LOT of factors: BTU's or A/C. Standard efficiency or high efficiency? What other electrical loads are on (battery charging? water heater? etc). Is shore power a full 120 VAC or is it down around 110 or even 108 VAC? So, the answer is in ideal conditions with you focused on your electrical system you MAY be able to do it.

cnahass, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, the goal is NOT to make the black tanks smell good, but to make sure that the smells do not reach the interior of the RV. You do need to check your tank vent and if it is OK, consider one of the pivoting venturi roof vent covers.

Curt, Buying used tires is always a risk-- usually an unreasonable risk. You really don't know if the tires have ever been run low on air, overloaded, etc.

Bill, Yes, the Mobil 1 for diesels meets the specs. Their "regular" Mobil 1 does not. But, except in very cold climes, I would question the 5 weight.

Two points: 1. Please use the viscosity recommended by your engine manufacturer for your engine and ambient temperatures. 2. Mobil DOES make an oil for diesel engines (as Bill posted), BUT be sure that if you use Mobil 1 in a diesel that you DO USE THE "FOR DIESEL" OIL, as most Mobil 1 you will find on the shelf is NOT for diesels.

If you do go to Thermoplis (which I also recommend), be aware that just north of town, Hwy 120 has a 3+ mile stretch of dirt road where they are rebuilding the road. Particularly if it has been raining, this can be a poor choice of routes. Instead, if headed for Cody, use U.S. 20 which is 40 miles longer, but excellent road and fewer grades. BTW, this advice is from both the WY DOT engineer for the area and the highway patrolman for the area. In Thermoplis, be sure to see the Dinosaur Museum. Brett

There are two fuses that supply power to the Allison ECU. Check both of them.

It varies by engine manufacturer, model, year (EPA spec) and can even vary by which oil capacity pan you have. But, all recommend changing once a year, independent of mileage. Let us know what engine you have and we can give you better advice.

Terri, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. With each successive engine "generation" (i.e. 454, Vortec 454, then 8.1) the factory did a better and better job of fine-tuning the engine, intake and exhaust systems. While you might gain a little on an 8.1 with the Banks system, most would consider the gain to not be worth the cost.

While a battery disconnect is an option on many vehicles, please check if this is recommended for your vehicle. Also, repeated cutting power/reconnecting power to computers may "irritate" them. And, if the toad battery is used to power the toad brake (as most do) disconnecting will not solve the discharge issue.

Don, IF, repeat if your ground wire in the original harness is of large enough gauge that you don't have a voltage drop, no need for an additional ground. That is (ya, another IF) that original ground is connected to the toad's negative terminal or frame, not just the ground for the lights. Yes, that is a lot of iffffs! Better (in terms of charging voltage and amps that can be transferred) to have a separate ground of sufficient gauge.