wolfe10

Ron, Because of different assembly techniques, best advice is to ask that question of your coach builder (Monaco in your case) or get input from others with the same brand and model. Were it mine, my approach would be to carefully inspect the roof a couple of times a year and make my own decision. After all, even with the same coach, one stored indoors half the time and the other in the Arizona sun would have very different maintenance needs.

http://www.hwhcorp.com/

sbissell, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What year Equinox are you considering? For the towing guides for the last 10 years, go to: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-guides-towing-four-wheels-down

Herman, I have been around electricity for a long time, including many third world countries. Never heard of 120 VAC reading 285VAC. All I can say is WOW, and grab your check book! We used the "load" fix many times in Mexico, where voltage is less-well regulated. Combination of high voltage and small-gauge CG wiring made adding a load just the right formula for dropping voltage.

Sorry, being from Texas, don't know if you are running home (Louisiana) or west to Los Angeles??? But here is RVSEF's weighing schedule for this year: http://rvsafety.com/weighing-schedule/

How high is "high"? Over 130 VAC? Particularly if on 30 amp shore power, turning on a high amp draw like small electric heater can bring voltage down to an acceptable level.

You will want to check all the seals between bedroom and engine room (or wherever you are seeing the dirt/soot). Also, the more positive pressure you can generate, the less dirt and dust will be sucked into the interior. That means having the dash system on, vs on recirculate. Also, no vents open behind the driver's area while driving.

Michelin 295/80R22.5. Click on Specifications: http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/tires-retreads/tireInfo.do?tread=XZA2%20ENERGY Go to another tire manufacturer's website and pull the same specification. BTW, tires are one of the poorest places to look for cutting corners.

You have answered your own question Some are old mentally and physically at 60, some are still active and interested in new experiences at 80+. Having lived on and maintained a sail boat, you are likely in the upper percent in terms of staying active. BTW, we are "semi-retired" sailors as well. Dianne and I have done about 25,000 sailing miles. Couple of Pacific Seacraft Crealock 37's and now a Catalina 350. Brett

Yes, the resistor is the common Gremlin when you have high fan speed, but no lower speeds.

http://www.fmca.com/join-family-motor-coach-association/member-benefits/fmca-connections/3455 http://www.fmca.com/images/stories/pdf/michelin-prices.pdf

Andy, I have NOT looked into the interchangeability of the two sizes, but will address your specific question. No problem having different size tires between front and rear axle as long as both meet all other criteria. However, it means that you will be very limited in how you rotate them should you need to do so. Assume you have priced the Michelins through the FMCA Fleet Program.

<p>I would be very leary of a "tigon splice" in an air line. Better to get DOT-approved air connections and line (or that may be what you did and I mis-read).</p>

All good advice. Be aware that many water heaters also have a CHECK VALVE to prevent mixing of hot/cold due to slight pressure difference in the two sides of the system. They can go bad, particularly if the coach is used in an area with high mineral content in the water.

To expand on Bill's post, ONLY open the fuel filter drain with the engine off. It is on the suction side of the fuel system. If opened with the engine on, quite likely you will suck air into the fuel system. And, if you have a clear bowl fuel filter (plastic bowl) you can tell at a glance whether you have water or sediment in the bowl. No need to drain unless you have contaminants. Said another way-- if all you see is golden fuel, no need to drain! Check the bowl first time you stop after driving a hundred miles or so on a fillup. By then, if there are contaminants, they will show up.

lakemartin, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please post the Brand and Part Number of the replacement. Thanks.

Dwayne, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Following manufacturer's schedule for maintenance, your chassis will go hundreds of thousands of miles. With the Caterpillar engine, be sure the initial valve adjustment has been done. Should be done between 30k and 40k miles.

Igor, Lots of different maintenance free batteries out there. I have use Lifeline AGM batteries for many many years in both sail boats and my RV's with excellent results. About the only recommendation (and actually not that different from any type of battery) is that you have a "smart" charger or inverter/charger AND that it is properly programmed for the batteries you choose.

Comparing MPG and power between two coaches is a LOT more complicated than it would first appear. Were the two coaches the same weight? Heavier is slower (with same HP) and takes more fuel. Physics is physics Were they the same HP (producing more HP does require more fuel)? Were they both compliant with the same emissions standards? Comparing a per-emissions to post-emissions engine? But, to answer your question, I would start by checking your air filter minder. If air flow is restricted, HP and MPG will suffer on any diesel. Said another way, you can't feed any diesel too much air. Also, on a hot day with less than 1/4 tank of fuel, check fuel temperature. If more than 10 degrees F more than ambient temperature, consider a fuel cooler (I have used transmission coolers) in the fuel return line from engine to fuel tank. Just make sure you cover it in the winter! But, it is those long hard pulls in the summer that often elicit those "I need more power" issues. Also, as Caterpillar recommends, be sure to have the initial valve adjustment around 30,000 miles. Valves well out of adjustment affects MPG and HP.

The chassis manufacturer normally ships the fuel fill hose loose or none at all, since it will be designed into the side of the coach by the coach maker. In most cases, slow fill is curable-- a sag in either the fill or vent hose can cause slow fill. Of course, if the coach maker installed the fill too close to the level of the tank inlet, slow fill can occur even without sags/dips in the hose. Suggest you look under the coach between filler and tank-- no higher math involved. If the hoses run downhill from side of coach to tank, filling is generally not a problem.

You can read the article I wrote on changing coolant in this month's FMCA Magazine (January). Agree, full strength works best when changing coolant.

And, to keep your transmission in higher gears longer, be sure to use "Economy Mode" on your Allison. If you need information, let me know and I will pull up an earlier article I wrote for the FMCA magazine.

Another cause of only some outlets having power is that they go through a GFI and that GFI is tripped. Locate ALL your GFI's and hit "test" then "reset/on".

Andy, I can't seem to find the reference, but I recall that the cold inflation value in the manufacturer's tables for your tires is based on servicing them at 60F is an internet hoax . That is why you will not find this on any tire manufacturer's website. Cold is defined by all tire manufacturers as "at current ambient temperature before driving".

CORRECT. All tire manufacturer's inflation tables are for cold. Cold is at current ambient temperature and before driving.