wolfe10

Never heard of that one either (for an RV that is). Would sure check it out with a voltmeter before plugging in. If it looks like a 50 amp outlet: Outer prongs are both HOT Inner straight prong is NEUTRAL Inner round is GROUND So: Either outer to center straight or round= 120 VAC Outer to outer= 240 VAC Center straight to center round= 0 VAC If it looks like a 30 amp outlet, RUN, FOREST, RUN. If it is a 3 phase plug, RUN, FOREST, RUN. Brett

Correct-- both of you. MOST, repeat MOST inverters (more correctly called inverter-charges, as most OE installations are of devices that are both inverters and chargers in one unit) are wired with 120 VAC IN from the coach 120 VAC main breaker box. When the inverter "sees" 120 VAC (from either generator or shore power), it does TWO things-- it "passes through" 120 VAC to everything "downstream of the inverter (likely through a separate inverter-powered sub-panel) AND, repeat AND the inverter also functions as a battery charger. Some charge only house battery bank, some charge both house and chassis battery banks. Brett

Be sure to verify that they are "Food Safe"! Had not heard of using one in a refrigerator.

I am with Bill. Your inverter is way "down-stream" from shore power coming into your RV. In order: CG power to outlet CG outlet Shore power cord Surge protector ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) Note-- the Surge protector could also be installed after the ATS, but most are before. Main breaker box Inverter When power goes off, does power go off to everything-- A/C's for example or just outlets and things supplied by the inverter when you are not plugged in?

Your "gut feeling" is CORRECT!

Then the first step is to give Allison a call tomorrow to see what the maximum HP/torque your transmission can handle. Allison help line 800 252 5283

goncolgo, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Couple of questions: Do you have the Allison 4 or 6 speed transmission. If the 6 speed, it CAN stand a HP boost. 4 speed, you would have to verify with Allison using your transmission model number. Do you have the 190 or 230 HP Cummins B engine? Do you know the weight of your loaded motorhome? Toad?

Lloyd, Please check again for what unit you are expressing boost in. It could be in PSI or in column inches of HG. Very unlikely to be a percent. You can call the Caterpillar RV Hotline at 877 777-3126 with your engine serial number to find out exactly what boost your engine should produce (as well as what boost it did produce on a dyno before leaving Caterpillar). Next question: is this lower boost than it has been in the past? Sudden drop or gradual? At 6,500' you should be generating full boost-- that is the beauty of a turbo. Looking for causes of a drop in boost pressure would begin with: 1. Leak between exhaust manifold and head or exhaust manifold and turbo-- look for any black (soot) at those locations. 2. A leak in a hose between turbo and tube going to CAC, tube to CAC, leak in a hose between the CAC and tube going to the engine and leak in hose at the engine intake manifold. 3. Leak in the CAC itself.

OK, I e-mailed Brent Watson, V.P. Operations for Duncan Systems Inc. one of the larger companies specializing in repairing RV double pane windows for his comment on this thread. With his permission, I am posting his reply: Hi Brett, Sorry for the delay. I’ve been on the road all week and am just returning. In response, we all know the benefits of insulated windows in fixed structures. The benefits are very much the same in RV’s. The issue is that an RV is nomadic by nature. Several factors are at play. Drastic, rapid temperature and elevation(pressure) changes, vibration, flexing and inadequate manufacturing all lead to seal failure. Seal failure results in condensation forming between the two panes of glass, creating the “fogging” appearance. The quickest and most cost-effective remedy is the repair process. The window is extracted, all components are removed, a new seal is applied and the window is essentially rebuilt. I’ve seen individual DYI kits offered, but haven’t sampled any of these products so I can’t speak to their quality. If repairing, a word of warning, new or reconditioned, the issue can and likely will resurface. Our aftermarket “spacer” product accommodates more flex than what most window manufacturers utilize, but is not guaranteed for the lifetime of the window. If an RV is equipped with insulated glass units, it’s very likely the issue will surface. It’s my opinion that until window manufacturers produce a window capable of accommodating all of the issues previously mentioned, insulated units are a poor option in RV’s. Until then, we offer fogged window repair in all of Duncan Systems locations. Please call or visit our website for more information. See below. I hope this helps. Brent Watson Vice President of Operations

Both white and black tire covers keep 100% of the UV light off the tires. The only difference MIGHT be in how the covers themselves resist degradation by UV light. I have no information on that, but as Tireman pointed out, it probably has more to do with the polymer used than with the color.

Steve, Thanks for researching this. Now, the real question-- why have so many manufacturers been using double pane windows, given their high failure rate if the advantages are not overwhelming?

Click on the link at the bottom of this post on the Diesel RV Club website. The document was written by Caterpillar Corp, but applies to all heavy vehicles. What you will find is that HP demand goes up rapidly as speed goes up. Yes, you could actually be getting better MPG at lower speed in a lower gear. http://www.catrvclub.org/PDF_Docs/Understanding_Perf.pdf

Rob, Many thousands of us with Class A motorhomes have the same Atwood Furnaces and have no problem with them functioning properly driving down the road. Before deciding that you need a "one of a kind" solution, I would suggest that you/a qualified RV tech do the basic troubleshooting that Rich posted as a link above. After all, that is why they fit a 25,000+ BTU furnace in the first place.

I e-mailed a very knowledgeable member of the FMCA Technical Advisory Committee with your question and got this reply: Brett, as previously stated, the problem is the draft of the airflow down the side of the coach, probably preventing the burner chamber from properly exhausting thus shutting down on high temperature. A small airfoil just in front of the furnace exhaust might deflect the air enough to prevent shut down. On electric heaters, there is no preference - look at the wattage and that is what you get, regardless of style.

Rob, What brand furnace do you have? Exactly what happens with the furnace when on the road: Heater fan quits? Fan stays running, but no longer hot? Other? And, where is the furnace located on the rig? I have not researched electric heaters-- would doubt they put out many BTU's and will require the generator to be running. Hopefully others will chime in.

Actually, I would suggest that you get the furnace looked at. There is no pilot light on your 2010 furnace. It should work just fine while on the road.

Many coaches only charge the chassis battery from the alternator (engine running). Were I storing a coach long-term without 120 VAC power, I would sure consider a solar panel to keep the battery(ies) charged.

If you are talking about while in storage, YES. Verify that your coach does not charge both battery banks when on 120 VAC-- yes, many do NOT.

You would need to verify restriction to know if you would be ahead to spend money on intake/exhaust. Your air filter minder will tell you if you have restriction on the intake side. What is your air filter minder reading? Copy the number off your muffler or determine the part number from your chassis maker. Then determine its CFM rating and then call Caterpillar RV Hotline (877 777-3126) with your engine serial number. They can tell you the CFM requirements for your engine.

Dirk, A break in the intake from top of coach to air filter will NOT dust the engine. The air filter would still filter out any contaminants. You must have had a break between the air filter and the turbo (if after the turbo, you would have lost a LOT of HP). Moving the intake lower and on the side will likely result in MORE dirt into the filter. Brett

Actually, if the R value is even close to the same and there are no other negatives (as I asked above), this could be a selling feature. Many know that double pane windows are a "failure waiting to happen". That is why I would be interested in the differences in R value, weight, etc.

IF, (ya, big IF) the tires have been properly cared for they may go longer. But, since you don't know that they have been covered when stored outdoors, never run low on air, never overloaded, etc REPLACE THEM.

Why was the engine replaced??? Look at the side of your coach after driving in rain. You will see a dirt "pattern" behind the rear wheels. Be sure if you relocate the intake to be ABOVE the dirt line. But, let's back up a step. What are your air filter minder readings-- that will help you decide if you have restricted air flow. And, before lowering the intake into a dirtier area, I would look at a larger filter housing/filter to lower restriction.

While it is true that black in many materials is more resistant to UV damage, the heavy vinyl used in tire covers will last for many years in either black or white. And, since high temperatures have a negative affect on tires, white is preferred, as it is quite a lot cooler when exposed to the sun than black.

Please tell us what coach/chassis you have. Thanks.