wolfe10

rabbizigzag, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us the make and model of the inverter/charger you have. Also, confirm that it is the CG breaker, not breaker in your coach that is tripping. In only one CG, or different ones (i.e do we know for sure that the CG electrical system is correct? Roughly how many amps/what was on then the breaker tripped? When power goes off, to all 120 VAC things go off, or just those things supplied by the inverter (i.e do things like the roof A/C's also go off)

Filtration depends on how you use your potable water system. If you are filling the tank, do NOT use a charcoal filter. They remove the chlorine and if storing the water this is not what you want to do. If you are using the water immediately (not filling the tank) a charcoal filter is OK. If well water, a sediment only filter is a good idea. The fine sand particles in some well water probably won't hurt you, but can clog the pump pressure switch. Best setup is a sediment only filter for all water coming into the coach. Then a good quality charcoal filter on a "drinking water" faucet.

Dan, Irrespective of whether it is left empty or full, when putting the motorhome back in service (where you want potable water) the tank should be SANITIZED. You will basically over-chlorinate the tank with bleach, then drain it and replace with potable water.

Again, call your chassis maker for the location of the air plenum. That will supply high pressure DRY air. As far as tire pressure, go to your tire manufacturer's website WITH the heavier wheel position on each axle to determine the correct minimum PSI. There is no one (hopefully) who will try to tell you the correct PSI without knowing actual weights. The GAWR sticker shows correct minimum PSI if each axle is loaded to maximum GAWR. You may be well under that or even over-- only a scale will know for sure.

Gwilly, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What chassis are you on? Most diesels have an air plenum with extra port(s) where you can easily install a ball valve, hose and air chuck. If a diesel, check with your chassis maker. Brett

Given his description (plugged into shore power for 4 months) he means they are at FLOAT voltage (not bulk or absorption). My first question is what is the amp rating of the solenoid and what amp load are you drawing? If the amp rating of the solenoid is marginally more than actual load, spec the next larger (higher amp rating) solenoid.

Can you say MASSIVE DEPRECIATION? Makes leasing untenable.

If no breakers tripped, and it is only outlets that don't work the other likely "suspect" is a tripped GFI. On each (usually there are several on a coach) push TEST and then RESET.

The answer depends on how much water damage has been done. Any water--damaged area will need to be repaired. If there is little water damage to the plywood, you can get some self leveling calk compatible with your roof material and simply seal the hole. Or if damage is more extensive, you could be looking at the more extensive repairs Xplorer detailed.

Denny, Give us as many details as you can so we can help. Have you turned off and back on the CG breaker? Are you on 30 or 50 amp connection? Does anything not powered by the inverter work on 120 VAC? Do you have a surge protector-- if so, and it has indicator lights, what does it tell you?

That kind of voltage drop would indicate: Weak battery OR bad cable connection OR bad starter. Start by having the batteries load tested, remove, clean and properly tighten all large connections between battery and starter. If the problem continues, suspect the starter. Brett

The answer to the generator question depends not only on whether it on a slide or not, but also exactly which generator it has. Said another way, some generators have the majority of their service items accessible even when installed in a fixed location. Others have to be pulled/dropped to reach some service items. My suggestion is to copy down the make/model of the generator and either call the generator manufacturer or look at their website for location of routine service components. Brett

MR, I'll get the list started. Advantages of Side Radiator: Easier engine access which translates to less expensive repair of things like alternator, water pump, belt changes, etc. And, even among rear radiator coaches, there is quite a wide range of service access from "top of engine". Some are easily accessed (you can climb into engine room), others have only small, difficult to access service doors under the bed/closet. Usually a little better MPG, since the cooling fan can be set up as a two speed fan or variable speed fan. The vast majority of rear radiators are constant drive fans. Easier to clean and less prone to clogging up. Disadvantages of Side Radiator: More expensive to build. More complex mechanically [hydraulic pump and fan motor(s)]

Here is Caterpillar Corporation's "Understanding Coach/RV Performance" document:http://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php/topic,6594.0.html Just click on the link at the bottom of the post to pull up the PDF file. Here is Cummins's document: http://cumminsengines.com/uploads/docs/cummins_secrets_of_better_fuel_economy.pdf

Blownaway, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The good news is that you have an air leak large enough to easily locate. There are a number of components in your air system that can leak-- could be something as simple as an air hose that a mouse chewed through.

Lew, Just do a google search on the products Rich mentioned. $15-20 should do it. BTW, diesel boats have the same diesel storage issues, so check with any marine supply store-- they should have a Biocide in stock.

To follow up on Gary's post, any restriction to the air flow through the radiator will cause the fan clutch to engage more. And, that takes a lot of HP and fuel to run it.

I add a Biocide anytime I will be storing diesel for more than 2 months in the summer or 3 months in the winter. Also, store with tank full to minimize condensation. The only other time I would add a Biocide is if I see an algae problem (black stringy "gunk" in primary fuel filter bowl. It is basically "weed killer" so it is not something I would get on my skin. Brett

I was not aware that Honda approved of towing the Accord, even with manual transmission. As to whether that is a legal decision or mechanical-based decision, I don't know. And, with any toad, toad BRAKES are an excellent idea and/or legally required.

Rick, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Rather than get opinions, tomorrow give Cummins a call with your engine serial number. THAT is the source of FACTS on your engine: Cummins 800 343-7357.

Was that because of MSW or because of power consumption/inadequate battery bank size?

Ourtime, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, you would be doing manually what the relay does automatically. And, since relays are only about $5, that is an easy solution.

Trace the large positive wire from the alternator. It will go to the isolator. There will also be large-gauge wires from isolator to chassis and to house battery banks. Most are in or near the engine compartment.

Start by verifying that the breaker on the 120 VAC main breaker panel for the inverter/charger is ON. There is also a fuse in the inverter 120 VAC "in" line. When the inverter/charger gets 120 VAC from shore or generator it does two things: "passes through" the 120 VAC to all circuits it supplies AND uses the 120 VAC to power the battery charger portion of the unit. You need to find out where in that "chain" you are breaking down.