wolfe10

12 VDC positive on signal wire, good ground on body or ground terminal and no power to "other large lug" means bad solenoid. Again, the solenoid is easy to test. Verify 12.0+VDC to one large lug (chassis battery lug). Use any small wire from chassis battery large lug to the signal (12 VDC positive) terminal. If the solenoid doesn't "click" and 12 VDC positive go to other large lug, the solenoid is BAD.

Welcome to FMCA and the FMCA Forum. The equivalent Michelin size is 255/80R22.5. Compare the specs for that one with your 265/75R22.5. They will be VERY close.

Yes, an intermittent duty solenoid will work, but will wear out in constant on duty. That would not be an issue in your testing-- it would certainly work that long. OK, if jumping across the solenoid made everything work but it did not work with a new solenoid, you need to check the signal wire to the solenoid from the ignition switch. Let me describe how this works: You have two large lugs on the solenoid. One always connected to the chassis battery. The other large lug gets power from the chassis battery only when one of the small terminals gets the "signal" from the ignition switch. Some solenoids have only one small terminal (signal terminal) and some have two small terminals. If two, the second is ground. If only one small terminal, the solenoid grounds through its mounting. If one terminal and not mounted on metal (i.e. ground) it will NOT work. So, if properly mounted, you need to check for the signal (12 VDC) on the signal wire when ignition on, but 0 VDC when ignition off. That will tell you if you have a problem with the ignition switch or wiring from switch to solenoid. You can also check by taking a small jumper wire (it will carry less than one amp) from the chassis battery lug to the small signal terminal. That will cause the solenoid to close and give power to those circuits downstream of the solenoid.

I don't know if you have the Allison 3000 (electronic 6 speed) transmission or the hydraulic Allison 4 speed-- 1993 was the first year of the electronic transmission. If the electronic 6 speed, most coach makers power the transmission shift pad and ECU off the ignition solenoid. So, if you have the 6 speed and it starts, the solenoid would not be at the top of my list. Also, be aware that even for a given amp rated solenoid, you have to verify that it is meant for CONSTANT duty, not intermittent duty-- they look the same.

To expand on Herman's post, since electrical loads that are on only when the ignition is on are too much to run through the ignition switch, the ignition switch is just used as the "signal wire" to close the contacts in the ignition solenoid. And, on coaches with electronic transmissions, they will generally NOT start if this solenoid is bad, as the Allison ECU is powered by the solenoid.

Yes, diode-based isolators do turn some voltage into HEAT (that is why they have the large aluminum cooling fins). But the drop across the diode to the chassis battery should not be materially different from the drop across the diode to the house battery. THAT is the issue here. And the voltage drop (assuming close to the same) is a non issue if the alternator/regulator has an EXTERNAL SENSE WIRE that senses voltage "downstream" of the diode based isolator. Yes, that makes the alternator work a little harder, but no huge deal. As an example, if the regulator is set to 14.0 VDC and the sense wire is on the chassis battery lug of the isolator (the common location), the regulator will work the alternator to put out the 14.0 at the "far side" of the diode-based isolator. So measuring voltage at the alternator will be 14.0 plus loss across the diode of about .7 so reading at the alternator would be around 14.7 VDC. There are three common ways to isolate battery banks, yet have them combined when you want for charging. The simplest (and manual) is a simple marine ON-OFF switch. Alternator output and chassis battery are on one lug and House battery on the other. Switch OFF and alternator charges only chassis battery. Switch ON and alternator charges both battery banks. Then the two "automatic" solutions: Diode-based isolators and Solenoid-based isolators.

When it powers off, have you checked for 12 VDC from the house batteries at the connection at the back of the refrigerator? That will tell you if you have a coach battery/wiring issue or refrigerator issue. If 12 VDC is present at that connection at the back of the refrigerator and no power to the refrigerator panel, check the fuse and connections at the PC board. Keep going with your voltmeter until you go from 12 VDC to 0 VDC.

Have you tried adjust the air slots? Adjust to all blue flame and then back off until the roaring/whistling stops.

Assuming you already have the rears balanced (not always done), yes, you will "throw off" balance by the weight of the extensions. Easy solution-- weight the extension on a kitchen scale/pharmacy scale and go to any tire dealer for exactly that amount of weight (one for each side). Install that weight directly opposite the extension.

Tom, Are you sure the bulbs are 12 VDC? Most 12 VDC florescent lights have ballasts so the bulbs are really not 12 VDC though the fixture is powered by 12 VDC. Again, pull one out and read the numbers on it. Likelihood is you can find it at one of the box stores.

Generally, yes. But pull a bulb and read the number on it-- should be able to find it at any box store.

That would show that the 120 VAC on the hot leg being monitored is OK. Since you have two hots on 50 amp service, it will give you no information on the other leg. So, for example both hots could be in phase (0 VAC between them instead of the proper 240 VAC), no power at all to the other hot, etc. It would show the single hot, the neutral and ground circuits are good.

Older gas rigs had low GVWR's (Gross Vehicle Weight Ratings). So coach makers added a tag axle. This vintage coach will also have the older generation engine (460 if ford vs V10 or 454 vs 8.1) and less economical transmission (number of speeds and lock up features became more common in newer years. Now, the opinion part-- I would not want that long a coach on the old-generation chassis. Of course, at some price, it may be just what you are looking for. Which brings up another way to approach the search-- what are your "wants" in a coach and what do you want to spend. That will give us a better idea of how to comment on choices that meet YOUR needs.

Looks like this is the beast: http://dometic.com/39ddef5d-f22c-400b-a781-ccd9b38c2008.fodoc It is also the user guide.

The grease in the Foretravel air disk brakes was gray chassis grease. I compared it with a tube of clay based grease I carry with me when I inspect Foretravels, as the clay based grease is required in all their air disk brake systems. Kind of a "show and tell".

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If this suddenly occurred after changing filters, make sure the filters are properly installed (no air leaks). A leaking CAC (Charge Air Cooler), AKA inter-cooler, AKA after-cooler would certainly reduce performance of any diesel engine, but should not have been coincident with the changing of the fuel filter. BTW, assume at that mileage you have had the initial vale adjustment-- recommended at 30-40k miles. Improperly adjusted valves could also cause performance issues, but as with the CAC, would likely not be coincident with filter change.

Yes, know the "older Keith" very well-- an excellent tech. But, as you say, he grew up on the Foretravel air disk brakes. Again, the question is-- does/should this apply to all brakes or just the air disk brakes? So, still looking for supporting documentation from other than air disk brakes calling for clay-based grease. BTW, I did a mechanical inspection for a buyer on a Foretravel yesterday and found regular grease (not clay-based grease) in the brakes. Called for a complete purge.

Will it be hot-- YES. But very low humidity. Suggestion-- drive in the very early morning and stop by noon. That will keep your driving temperatures in check. Particularly if you drive early in the day, the grades on I 10 will present no issues. Now, were it me, I would be headed west a bit further north (higher elevation). As an example, while still in New Mexico, Angel Fire at 8,400' required no A/C for the whole month of July last year. Yes, more mountains, but with cooler temperatures, not much of an issue as long as you are comfortable driving in mountains AND you have done basic routine maintenance such as changing brake fluid.

We went the Virgin Mobile route. Cheap, simple to setup. Bought the Virgin Mobile USB "Stick" at Walmart for $34 and a $50 aircard. We then released what we thought was enough time for a month from the $50 account. Would be interested in cost and how much that bought per month.

Bill, I am curious-- is this their suggestion for all air brakes, just air disk brakes (which is mostly what MOT works on) or??? Would be interested in collaborating documentation from the brake manufacturers if this applies to other than the air disk brakes as used on Foretravels for example, which DO require clay-based grease.

Lyle, They come in different sizes/capacities and install close to the pump on the pressure side. Here is one: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/water-pump-tank.htm

Yes, an accumulator will solve the pulsing.

I will address the alternate: It is NOT a good idea to have different tires (size, brand or age) on the same axle. On different axles not an issue as long as all tires meet the GAWR/actual weight you are carrying. Load Range refers to carrying capacity-- go to each tire manufacturers website to see the difference (actually PSI to carry a specific weight). As long as your tires meet YOUR weight requirements, you are good to go.

Not familiar with them. Many use: http://rvparkreviews.com/

While you could have an actual problem, it could also be that running the generator which powers the charger or inverter/charger which starts in BULK mode will be higher voltage than that produced by the alternator. This can cause the charge light to illuminate. If batteries charge properly from the alternator (with 120 VAC charger off) and charge properly from shore power/generator (with the engine off), the easy answer is to turn off the breaker that supplies the charger or inverter/charger while you are driving. Brett