wolfe10

Drill, We would need more information to know whether this would be a good coach for you. If memory serves, this is a Chevrolet P chassis with normally aspirated Isuzu diesel. Very good engine, but very low HP. If slow speeds and not too many steep grades are in your future, may work for you. And certainly, at that age, if you are not happy doing mechanical work, "Run, Forrest, Run". Clearly, the body is a classic.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What area of the country-- makes a difference in who is available. I have done mechanical inspections, particularly but not limited to Foretravels for the last decade. But if we are in Texas, for example and the coach you are considering is in Washington, you need feedback on someone in that area. The difficulty is to find someone who is familiar with both house systems (fairly common at RV dealerships) and, repeat AND the chassis (engine, transmission, suspension and hopefully, issues peculiar to the brand). One place to check is on the different owners forums, for someone technical qualified on the coach you are considering. For example, the forum with a lot of technical information on Foretravel is http://www.foreforum...hp?action=forum

Since you have a Cummins, I would suggest their Fleetguard OAT coolant. Were it a Caterpillar, I would suggest Caterpillar ELC. That way, if you are ever in a shop having engine work done, they will have your coolant on the shelf.

jubilee32, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Solenoids CAN stick and then free up. Arcing causes pits on the surface of the contacts. These pits can cause the contacts to not make good contact. If this happens again, (assuming you do not want to troubleshoot this with a voltmeter-- which is better), give the solenoid a sharp (but not hard) wrap with the handle of a screwdriver. Many times, that will free up the contacts.

Wallee, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The vent can either open ABOVE the full level of the tank OR you can install a siphon break and it can exit below the tank. Fairly common item on boats, as draining water when the engine is below the waterline faces the same issue.

Gdetty, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, if you have a built-in inverter, it would provide enough power to run your refrigerator. BUT, I see that more as a band aid for your problem with getting the propane system up and running properly as the better solution. You would need to determine how your coach's inverter 120 VAC out was wired-- actually whether there is an inverter-powered outlet behind the refrigerator. If your inverter has a PASS THROUGH FEATURE (when on shore or generator, the inverter automatically powers all things on the "out" side of the inverter from the external source rather than continuing to take battery power to "make" 120 VAC). If it doesn't, you would have to manually remove the refrigerator plug from the inverter-powered outlet and plug it into an outlet powered by the normal shore/generator. Let us know what inverter or inverter charger you have and if you have an inverter-powered outlet behind the refrigerator.

No, a 2005 Dynasty will not have the 4 bag suspension that had trailing arm failures. Likely you have a slow leak from ride height valve, line or air bag. Use a bubble solution with full air pressure up to check for leaks (using safety stands!).

John, While it would be ideal to get side to side weights closer, you are within industry standards. Other than moving some of those batteries, I would suggest that you check your ride height. Check with your chassis manufacturer for the ride height specs AND for tolerances (plus or minus difference). If the ride height on the light side is lower than spec/heavy side is higher than spec, a mere adjustment will help some. Also, some give 1/8" tolerance which can be used to fine-tune side to side weights (raising ride height on a side increases the weight it carries. Do NOT go outside of your chassis manufacturer's specs.

The 2013 Towing Guide as published in the January issue and is also on the FMCA website: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-guides-towing-four-wheels-down

Tom, Your generator output (120 VAC) goes to a junction box in the driver's side bay just behind the generator-- high on the front wall. With all 120 VAC power off, check connections there and make sure they are clean and dry. If they are, check the connections at the ATS. If OK, check the connections at the generator itself. Just because you are there, turn OFF and then back ON the two breakers on the generator itself.

Jon is correct. Most 2007 and newer diesels require ULSD which is not available south of the border. But all diesels before 2007 are fine for the trip.

receve, The little bit of research I did showed a significant difference in R values and reflective properties in laminated glass depending on what material was used between the glass. Do you have any numbers on the windows that may indicate what they used?

Do you know what brand macerator pump you have? That will help us to answer the "repair vs replace" question.

If, repeat IF you are safe working around 120 VAC, with all power off (disconnect from shore power, generator and generator auto start off, inverter off) check all connections. This should be done once a year on all RV's. Check connections where shore power comes into coach, ATS and all the screws (hot, neutral, ground and main feeds) in the 120 main breaker box. Also look for burnt wires that would indicate poor connection (poor connection is resistance-- resistance with power going through it is HEAT). Also, as a troubleshooting issue, put a voltmeter on the other microwave socket and monitor voltage when this occurs. If voltage drops to a low enough point (due to loose connection or other issue) it would be reasonable that the inverter is sensing "insufficient" voltage and is kicking in to power your appliance.

Is it a high temp or low coolant level warning. Check coolant level/coolant level sensor.

Welcome to the FMCA Family. Best to store with diesel tank FULL to minimize condensation. If the fuel will not be burned in 2 months in the summer or 3 months in the winter, add a BIOCIDE. You can get it at any marine store, since diesel powered boats have the same diesel storage issue. Here is one: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=11151&partNumber=255739&langId=-1&searchKeyword=Biocide#.UOdF3XdVV9A Per Michelin, inflate tires to the max on the sidewall during storage (as long as it does not exceed the rim maximum PSI. Do not start the engine unless you can drive a minimum of 25 highway miles (enough to get the OIL, not just coolant up to operating temperature.

I believe (been awhile since I replaced an ATS) that some use 120 VAC to close the relay and some use 12 VDC. Again, if you tell us the make and model, perhaps someone with specific knowledge of your ATS may be able to help.

First question on the spongy feel is how old is the brake fluid? If OE, check on CHASSIS (not coach build date). Hydraulic brake fluid must be changed every 2-3 years. It absorbs moisture (to protect the iron parts of your brake system). New brake fluid boils around 500 degrees F. Hydrated brake fluid boils under 300 degrees F.

Flush and fill with one or the other-- the two chemistries are different. I favor the new OAT-based coolants, as they have twice the life and do not require testing and adding SCA's. Remember, on a linered engine like your Cummins C, the proper coolant chemistry is REQUIRED to keep cylinder walls from eroding. BTW, if you go with an OAT-based coolant, the filter you use is a "blank". A blank has zero units SCA, but is a filter.

Sorry, are you towing an EXPLORER or ESCAPE-- not familiar with a Ford Explore.

Carlon, I know that the scales used by RVSEF and many state truck enforcement divisions cost in the thousands of dollars-- just not practical. Do you vary the weights between trips enough to warrant a reweigh? Most weight "when loaded as you travel" including full fuel and whatever level you normally carry in the other tanks. Use the heavier wheel position on each axle to access your tire manufacturer's inflation table for your tires. The table gives you the MINIMUM PSI for that load. Add a 5 PSI safety cushion to account for that "extra trip to Walmart" and you should be good to go.

If you are asking about relative performance and perhaps MPG, first question is what are relative weights of the two coaches? Clearly there are a lot more Cummins ISL's in motorhomes than Maxxforce 10's, so service MAY be an issue with the Maxxforce (Navistar).

Done

If the line up the back (open to the outside via the side and roof vents) is freezing, vs a blockage inside the refrigerator, look carefully at the line. Many ice maker lines have an electric heat "sheath" around them to minimize just such an occurrence. If not, check with Dometic for such a device. And, if the problem is in the refrigerator itself, start defrosting the freezer section. Sometimes the feed tube between the incoming line and ice cube tray becomes frozen.

Since the fan does not even come on, and that is the first step in the "light the furnace" process, my first suspect is an electrical issue. Start by checking that all connections are tight. Remember, when cold, metal SHRINKS and can make a marginal connection inoperative. So, connections at thermostat and at furnace (outside access door). If that does not do it, unplug the connection on the furnace PC board (outside access door) and clean with DeOxit or other good electrical cleaner.