wolfe10

Well, FMCA's 2013 towing guide (4 wheels down) was in the January FMCA Magazine and here on their website: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-guides-towing-four-wheels-down

Herman, In a word, YES. The air dryer is immediately downstream of the engine-driven air compressor. So between air compressor and first (wet) air tank.

DO IT. The option I use is to get a Bendix factory reman (NOT reman by Bubba or his friends). That way the factory overhauled it and replaced, not only the filters but also heater, valves, etc. Not much more money if you figure your time as worth anything.

Correct, a CONTINUOUS DUTY solenoid is different from an INTERMITTENT DUTY solenloid. Intermittent duty solenoids are more common, as that is the duty cycle used for starting.

dhgraves, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I will address part of your question-- cost. Have you priced the Michelins through the FMCA Michelin Fleet Account? As to whether the other size will work, go to each tire manufacturer's website and compare all tire dimensions and carrying capacities. And, the service center is correct-- irrespective of how much tread is left, EITHER cracks OR 10 years old means REPLACE.

Out of round means that the tire is "egg" shaped instead of round. Tire dealers have RUN-OUT GAUGES that can very quickly measure how "out of round" it is. For front tires, MY specs are no more than .035" run out. Run out can be in the circumference or side to side. If more than .035" run out, it is common to deflate the tire and remount it 180 degrees around the wheel and recheck. If that doesn't do it, you have a choice of TRUING the tire or getting a new tire. Do not be afraid of having the tire trued-- I have all my front tires trued, as do many OTR truckers. Totally round (from truing) will run longer and smoother than even a slightly egg shaped tire, so the little rubber that is shaved off the high points is not a problem.

The clear plastic "hub" should have a concentric ring with arrow and writing showing minimum oil level. Max is sometimes another marked ring or the bottom of the removable rubber plug.

Best advice is to call the Caterpillar RV Hotline with your engine serial number. They can look up your actual engine and give you the FACTS. Caterpillar 877 777-3126.

Harry, Doing a search on FMCA's main website for "Classified" turned up this contact-- might give her a call on Monday: For information about classified advertising, contact Bridget Lynn, classifieds coordinator, (800) 543-3622, (800) 543-4717 Fax, e-mail magazineclassifieds@fmca.com

Do you have a plastic BOWL? or is this something else. If you are going to the trouble to change the bowl, I would just replace the filter along with the bowl.

Joe, Please tell us what chassis you have--Ford or Workhorse. Has it done this since new? Thanks. Brett

Charles, Might look at this thread: http://community.fmca.com/topic/2863-adding-profile-photo-on-forum/

Charles, I am a bit concerned by your observation/advice. A propane furnace does NOT take in outside air. The inside air is recirculated (after being heated in the furnace) and the air for combustion enters the furnace ONLY from the outside and then is exhausted only to the outside. So, if you are getting a lot of cold air from your furnace vent(s) you need to have your furnace checked. Now, if you are talking about the dash HVAC system, indeed, it can take in cold air (and lots of it) from the outside. Blocking off the dash HVAC air intake may be warranted in extremely cold conditions.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best advice is to hook everything up after loading the coach and THEN measure the drop you will need to make the hitch level.

I can see no reason that loss of hydraulic assist would cause the steering to lock up. To get an idea of the huge amount of effort required to turn the steering wheel without hydraulic assist, try turning the wheel with the engine stopped. That should give you a good idea of the steering effort without hydraulic assist."

Spearfish, Please see this topic--same subject: http://community.fmca.com/topic/5027-list-of-flat-towing-vehicles-kia-missing/ BTW, are you a spearfisherman? I have done a lot of that off our sailboat in the Bahamas.

No need to run wires the 15' between battery banks. Locate your battery boost solenoid. One large lug will be to the house battery, the other to the chassis battery. Install the Echo Charger between them. Said another way, use the boost solenoid as if you were connecting directly to the positive terminals of the battery banks (because electrically, that IS what you are doing).

Glad it was an inexpensive fix.

I would start by calling Cummins. Cummins 800 343-7357 Does the Allison shift pad illuminate with the key on? If not, call Allison as well. Allison help line 800 252 5283

Said another way, you can adapt 50 amp shore power down to 30 amp AND can adapt 30 amp shore power to a 50 amp connection, but as Mr Boyer said, 30 amp cords are three wire (one hot, one neutral and one ground). 50 amp cords are larger gauge since they are capable of carrying 50 amps on EACH hot and are four wire (TWO hots, one neutral and one ground).

If he answer that, his wife may move him to the lighter side of the BASEMENT.

While balancing side to side loads can be carried too far, checking them from time to time IS a very good idea. This is particularly true of coaches on air suspensions, as RIDE HEIGHT VALVES, to a large degree determine side to side loading and can get out of adjustment. I also use 4 wheel position weights to determine where MY heavier gear (like tools) should be stored.

Ashleypaxtonn, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Some inverters produce pure sine wave power, others modified sine wave power. The modified sine waves inverters are less money, but some appliances are sensitive to wave form and don't do well on MSW.

To expand on Dave's post, the air leak into the fuel system is on the suction side of the system. So, between fuel tank and lift pump. A loose hose fitting, crack in fuel line between tank and primary filter or primary filter and lift pump, leak at primary fuel filter, etc. Were the leak on the pressure side (after lift pump) instead of allowing air to be sucked into the fuel, you would have a fuel leak. ALL diesels are cranky when their normal fuel supply is "supplemented" with air in the fuel line.

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Very difficult for us to "arm chair" diagnose your issue. My first question is how many miles on it. If 30k plus, have you had the initial valve adjustment? Has a Caterpillar dealer put it on their computer to check for codes? As far as starting, is the intake manifold heater working as it should? When were the fuel filter(s) changed last? Clogged filters can give several different symptoms.