wolfe10

Yes, a 12 VDC charger will charge them up. If 12 VDC batteries just connect to the positive and negative. If two 6 VDC batteries in series, connect positive to the battery's positive post that goes to house positive and the negative to the other battery's negative post that goes to house ground. Said another way, on two 6 VDC batteries in series, do NOT connect either charger lead to the terminals with the interconnect between the two 6 VDC batteries. Brett

Yes, your dash air is basically a larger version of our car A/C. So if you have equipment and knowledge of automobile A/C systems, you are good to go. No idea where your high/low ports are located. No real convention on that-- both mine are up front near the dryer/evaporator. Brett

Paul, You did not mention the year model of your Pontiac, but some of the tow bar manufacturers have on line installation manuals for each vehicle, so you could go through it and see if it is something you want to tackle and/or approximate installation time. Here is one-- just enter the specific vehicle information: http://www.roadmasterinc.com/vehicle_guide/tow_bar_brackets.php

Please let us know that the A/C compressor is coming on and both ambient temperature at the air return and out the A/C vent. Also, if this is at your same home outlet where you are having electrical issues, get those electrical issues resolved before troubleshooting the A/C. You will sure want to verify that you have 108- 132 VAC with the A/C running, correct polarity and good ground.

Don't know the yellow, yellow, red on your particular meter. Might want to google the manufacturer and determine what it means. Kind of useless to have coded lights without them supplying you with what the codes mean. I would start checking the adapters with an ohm meter to make sure that there was not a broken connection or prong within the adapters. Let us know what the the yellow, yellow red means, then we can give further help. Brett

How to post your picture: http://community.fmc...photo-on-forum/

In a word, NO. They are sealed units. To recharge, you would need to solder in a valve. Also, being sealed units, you would have to locate and fix the leak. Have you confirmed that the compressor is coming on and that you have good air flow through the condenser and evaporator? At 13 years old, if this problem is major, were it me, I would replace with new. Brett

Frank, Strongly suggest that you do buy a digital voltmeter-- they start under $20 at Sears, Radio Shack, etc. Invaluable in troubleshooting RV issues. And, if you had one, to check that 15 amp ("regular" house outlet): Short straight= HOT Long straight= NEUTRAL Round= Ground. So, from short straight to long straight= 120 VAC Short straight to round= 120 VAC (if not ground, it would read zero and just that quickly identify the problem). Long straight to round= zero (if 120 VAC here, just that quickly, you would know that polarity was reversed and you would have identified your issue). But, until you identify and fix the issue, I would NOT use shore power from that outlet. And, could it be a problem in one of your adapters or shore power cord-- sure, but again you would need a voltmeter to check it out. Yes, you do need to be careful not to touch the metal probe part of the voltmeter leads, but other than that, pretty straight forward. Brett

OK, so it is shore power that is the cause-- that is what I suspected, as 12 VDC really doesn't give you that "tingle" that 120 VAC does. Are you on 15, 30 or 50 amp shore power? Have you checked for proper polarity and presence of good ground? Until you determine and remedy the problem, probably safer to unplug. Also, if shore power is off and generator is on, do you still have the voltage on the chassis. Again, if you use a digital voltmeter, you will have concrete numbers to work with. Brett

Kelly, First question-- are you plugged in to shore power? Have you used a digital voltmeter to check between coach metal and ground (metal water pipe, metal stake driven into moist ground, etc). Check on both VAC and VDC scales. And, if on shore power, check with shore power plugged in and then with it unplugged. Brett

First, want to make sure I understand the problem. Is the freezer building up ice that requires defrosting every few days or is it the fins in the refrigerator? As Rich said, for either the first thing to check is the door gaskets. Use the "dollar bill test". As you move the bill around the seal area, you should have firm, consistent resistance. If not, the door needs to be adjusted or gasket replaced. If this is the refrigerator fins icing up, verify that there is a reducer in the outboard end of the condensate drain. If not, warm, humid air is continually being let into the refrigerator. If this is the freezer, making large quantities of ice will add a lot of moisture to the freezer and accelerate the need to defrost. Brett

Don, If you have verified that there is no check valve on the inlet, but is one on the outlet, that is sure where I would start.

JT, As you have suggested, weight has has materially more affect on MPG on grades than on flat ground. Don't know of any published figures on the affect of 500 pounds on your MPG. But, you might read through this Caterpillar Corp document to see the affect of weight on HP demand on both flat ground and while climbing a 6% grade. Higher HP demand is directly related to higher fuel consumption: http://www.catrvclub...anding_Perf.pdf Brett

Don, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. It is quite common for there to be one check valve.

Jackie, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Did you print the Sams Discount certificate in the link Todd posted above and present that at Sams? It is pretty self-explanatory. I know it worked when Dianne used it. Brett

gddroke, Set tire pressure cold (i.e. before driving). Do NOT let air out as your PSI rises with driving and higher temperatures. The tire manufacturers are very much aware of the increase due to heat and their inflation tables take that into consideration. And, as you point out, if a tire is in the sun, PSI will and should be higher, just as if it had been driven. Cold would have the asterisk of "in the shade". So, on tires in the sun, indeed, they should be set a few PSI higher. Easy to OVER-THINK this. It is really not that complex. Brett

Wow, Bill and I posted at exactly the same time. Indeed, it is either his observation or mine. So, start by verifying fuel flow to the carburetor. If no flow, could be a stopped up filter, bad pump, bad wiring to pump or leak on the hose from tank to pump (suction side leak letting air into the fuel line). If good flow to the carburetor, overhaul or replace the pump. Brett

If you have verified good fuel flow to the carburetor, and it runs when you inject "fuel", that basically leaves a carburetor overhaul or replacement as options. If you do try any more to run it on starting fluid (which I don't recommend) be sure the breakers are off, as I doubt you are sending "good" power to the ATS and house. Likely wrong frequency as well as wrong voltage. Don't want to damage appliances in the coach. Brett

Not that familiar with consumption figures for Generac generators, but I know in the Onan owners manuals and on their website, they publish consumption figures at 1/2 and at full throttle. So part of the answer depends on what you are running. Have you looked in your Generac manual and/or online.

John, Absolutely the #1 cause of overheating on a rear radiator configuration is blockage of the fins (outside) of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler). You can verify this yourself. Access the top of the engine through the bedroom or closet. Shine a strong flashlight (at night makes it easier to see) inside the fan shroud/between fan blades. The fan blades sling the dirt that it sucks up to the perimeter. Verify that the perimeter, particularly the lower perimeter is as clean as the center. If not, clean it! Brett

My suggestion is to call Freightliner, Gaffney: 800 385-4357 Have your VIN handy.

Agree with Bill-- you need to get the RV weighed so you can determine the correct PSI. Until then, look at the GVWR plaque which is normally in the driver's area. It (by law) will give recommended tire pressures ASSUMING each axle is loaded to its GAWR. Not really accurate, but a reasonable starting point. Brett

If you can track down the brand of the LED's, might be better to just contact them to see if a dimmer will work.

Clay, You need to go HIGHER. We arrived in Angel Fire, NM yesterday. 8,400'. High today is 82-- currently 67. And, yes some propane appliances need to have their mixtures reset at high elevations. Brett

Did that exact thing yesterday and today. Drove from our home south of Houston to Angel Fire, NM. Amazing what 8.400 feet will do for the climate. Brett