wolfe10

clacy, Can you be more specific about what problems you are experiencing with the PressurePro? I have the system on my coach and toad and have had no problems. I do know if you experience a leak at the valve stem, that PressurePro sells a complete seal kit with (I think) 10 seals and installation tool for around $10. As with any system, if the valve stem end has a sharp edge, it can cut the gasket in the sensor and cause a leak.

Excellent description, Tom. And, like you, when we get our coach weighted, I note each tank level as well as "are we loaded for a weekend or long trip". I then calculate "heaviest weight at each wheel position" and lightest weight at each wheel position" by adding weight of full tank capacity at its actual location in the coach. I use the heavier calculated weight on each axle to go to the tire inflation chart. So, like you, when all tanks are full (very rare for gray and black to be full, and water only over 1/2 if we know we will be dry camping) we have adequate PSI and are a little over-inflated when tanks are empty. Another point-- we try to run on the top half of the fuel tank. Important even on gas engines as they "recirculate" fuel back to the tank and a full tank keeps fuel cooler. Even more important on a diesel as they are all "high bypass" engines. For every gallon of fuel that goes to the engine, only a few ounces are burned. The rest is used to cool and lubricate the head and injector pump and injectors. Tank temperatures can get quite high if you are driving in 100 degree heat on less than 1/3 of a tank. To verify this, if running on under 1/3 tank and have driven most of the day, reach under and touch the fuel tank! Brett

Herman, Perhaps I don't understand, but if you power the Buddy Brake only from the coach (rather from the toad battery and a wire from the coach to keep the toad battery charged while towing) what would power the Buddy Brake in case of a break away (toad came loose from the coach)?

Herman, Been using boards for decades and never a slip. The weight of a wheel position on a board makes it pretty darn stable. I like to minimize coach/chassis twist, particularly when parking for more than overnight. Yes it IS extra work.

Some have the ability to weigh individual wheel position, but most are not level from scale to side to allow you to put just one side on at a time. Also, many have rails to keep you from doing this. Clearly, you can get individual axle weights.

Larry, First, let's be clear: The inflation information on your vehicle's GVWR plaque is based on each axle being LOADED TO ITS GAWR. Were I armed with that information, I would compromise between the two. If the Michelin inflation table based on your coach loaded as it goes down the road specifies 75/80, that ASSUMES that that inflation is the minimum for your actual weight based on the heavier wheel position on each axle. So, I would add 5 PSI to the minimum to account for those big Walmart trips and moderate ambient temperature range and 5 PSI for side to side imbalance (until you get 4 wheel position weights). So I would go 85/90. Then modify it based on actual wheel position weights. This should improve your ride quality. Brett

To check the batteries in the photo, negative lead on the negative of battery on the left side (where cable goes to house ground) and positive on the positive of right battery (where house positive connects). Fully charged battery (actually two together)= 12.7 VDC. Anything above that suggest the converter is working (with converter on, should be 13.2-13.5). 12.2 is a 50% discharged 12 VDC battery. If you were talking about another battery bank , "just over 12" shows a mostly discharged battery (12.2 VDC is a 50% discharged 12 volt battery as measured with the battery at rest). If you don't have a way to charge that battery, suggest you get one. Brett

Tom, You can send him a PM (Private Message). Just scroll over his screen name and click on "Send message. Brett

Joe, If the dramatic change in handling/tracking was due to one brake hanging up, that brake's shoes and likely drum and axle seal will probably need replacement because of severe overheating. Replace the other rear wheel's brake shoes as well so the friction surfaces are the same. Clearly, have them pull off the drum on that wheel to check. Brett

Since you are on shore power, it is better to add a small charger for the chassis batteries or unit that charges the chassis batteries from the house batteries than to disconnect them. Disconnecting chassis batteries means loosing memory in lots of devices. Brett

Excellent. Yes, it is quite common for a GFI to serve several outlets with the refrigerator being one of them.

Use a digital voltmeter to check charging voltage at the battery. Should be in the 13.2- 13.5 VDC range if left plugged in. How often do you have to add how much water?

John, As long as you are not severely overchaging them or allowing then to be very deeply discharged and keep water level up, they should last a lot more than 2 years. Many buy golf cart batteries at Sams/Walmart, as they have locations everywhere. I go a different direction when it comes to batteries and use high-end AGM's-- Lifelines for house and Optimas for starting. Both are 7 years old and going strong. BUT, they ae not abused by incorrect charging or deep discharging. It is VERY difficult/expensive to find a quality 12 VDC deep cycle battery. Much easier to find them in 6 VDC, as that is what golf cart batteries are. Said another way, I suspect you will pay as much for a quality deep cycle 12 VDC battery of lesser capacity as you will for two golf cart batteries of the same quality and the golf cart batteries will have more capacity. Brett

Plug in any other 120 VAC appliance into the refrigerator 120 VAC plug in the refrigerator outside access door to verify that you have power to the outlet. If so, unplug and check the A/C fuse on the refrigerator PC board. If not, check breaker AND GFI. The GFI may need to be reset. If it is tripped and trips again when the refrigerator switches to 120 VAC, you may have a shorted out heating element in the refrigerator. Of course something else on that GFI circuit may have tripped it. Brett

If you want to replace the two 6 VDC with a single 12 VDC battery you are exactly correct on how to do it. House ground, now on left battery negative would go to 12 volt battery negative. House positive, now on right battery positive would go to 12 volt battery positive. But, since you are already set up for 6 VDC batteries, and golf cart batteries are the least expensive way to get deep cycle batteries, I am not sure what you will gain by the move. Assuming you occasionally want to be able to overnight without shore power/generator, 220 amp hrs at 12 VDC (approximately what you have in the two golf cart batteries) is really about a minimum anyway. Brett

While I agree with Bill that as long as you keep your tires on the ground, you don't HAVE TO use boards under the the tires on the low side(s), it is not a bad idea, particularly if you will be parked for a long time. Certainly not necessary for overnight or short stays.

Joe, From your description (engine started, transmission went into gear, but unable to move the coach even when slightly reving the engine), it sounds like the parking brake may not be releasing. This can happen, particularly if the coach is parked with brake shoes wet or in very humid climates and the coach sits for a long time. Was the description I wrote the procedure you followed and the results? Was air pressure on both gauges over 110 PSI? Had you pushed in the parking brake valve and did you hear the "hiss" of air going to the rear brakes (there is a much louder hiss when you pull on the parking brake valve, as air is let out of the rear parking brake can)? Again, I would have someone recommended by the alignment shop stop by and take a look before you more it. It is pretty hard to identify and diagnosis over the internet. If the coach has always "dog tracked", steering wheel at 30 degrees off center, etc I would be less concerned that you have a potential safety issue. But, that much change indicates that something just isn't right. Brett

Skip, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You have outlined a very safe and "coach friendly" approach to leveling. And, yes as long as the wheels (rear wheels are held by your parking brake) are on the ground or boards, no wheel chocks are needed. The only part that you need to look in your coach owners manual for is the order in which you do things when you deploy the jacks and extend the slides. Some manufacturers ask that the jacks level the coach first, some ask that the slides deploy first. No right or wrong answer-- just different. Brett

First, a question: Do you have 120 VAC where you are camped AND do you have a charger that charges the chassis batteries as well as the house batteries.

Bob, Contact Freightliner in Gaffney, SC. This is a reasonably well known issue. Freightliner: 800 385-4357 need VIN

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you have 30 amp (three prongs on shore power cord) or 50 amp (4 prongs on shore power cord)? Very difficult for my to say how difficult an installation would be. Depends on your skill level as well as how you choose to wire it/have it wired. A good start is to start identifying some of the decisions to be made when installing an inverter: How large is the house battery bank (in amp-hrs)? If not on the batteries, how many batteries of what kind? How far from where the house batteries are to the nearest place you could install the inverter, but NOT in the same compartment, as battery acid and electronics "don't play nice together)? How far from the inverter location to where you main 120 VAC breaker box is located? What do you want to be able to power from the inverter? Are you looking at an inverter/charger? If not, what converter or charger do you have? One of sufficient size (amp capacity) and preferably a "smart"/three stage charger is a very good idea. Brett BTW, if you just click on "Quote" you could type answers right after the questions.

BH is referring to methyl mercaptan which is the "smell" added to propane.

Larry, I wouldn't be too concerned about the turbo. That same engine is uses in lots of trucks weighing 80,000 pounds frequently doing 80 MPH. By comparison, you are not really pushing that hard. And from the photos, it looks like your CAC may be on top of, rather than in front of the radiator. Interesting configuration-- called STACKED vs SANDWICHED. Makes both a lot easier to clean with a hose.

Steps to reduce freeze up: 1. Run fan on high. 2. Turn thermostat a little warmer. 3. Be sure to keep the air return filter clean/replaced. 4. Clean the EVAPORATOR COILS with a good commercial evaporator cleaner from any HVAC store and many box stores. Particularly critical if A/C is operated in humid climates. This needs to be done once a year in humid climates and/or when you get that musty smell when first turning on the A/C. 5. Check ducting in ducted A/C's to insure that cold air can not recirculate back into the return side of the unit. Brett

Yes, the CAC is outboard of the radiator, so the radiator would have "protected" the CAC from damage by the fan.