wolfe10

Larry, Would appreciate your posting some photos of the fan bracket failure. That would help others with the same chassis to evaluate theirs. If no photo, please describe in detail what failed and if you/the shop have a suspected cause, please post that. Thanks. Brett

John, You need a "dual foot tire gauge". Google that and you will fine quite a few over a reasonably wide range of prices and likely, quality.

The CAC (Charge Air Cooler) is an air to air radiator that takes hot intake air from the turbo (at up to 300 degrees F) and cools it to close to ambient temperature and then it goes to the engine intake manifold. Any loss of pressure in a CAC costs you HP and MPG. Never heard of dipping the radiator in solder, so can't comment.

Joe, I have no first hand experience (we live in Texas), but Josam in Orlando has a good reputation: http://josamusa.com/ Might see of one of their guys lives anywhere near you or can recommend someone in Leesburg to take a quick look to deem it drivable to Josam. Brett

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is the maximum a motorhome was designed to carrry (on its own tires). GCWR: Gross Combined Weight Rating is the maximum weight of motorhome and anything it is pulling. It ASSUMES that anything you are towing has brakes. GAWR: Gross Axle Weight Rating is the maximum that each axle was designed to carry. If importance if you tow a trailer because of tongue weight. With the LONG rear overhang, tongue weight applies more than the tongue weight to the rear axle and lessen weight on the front axle. Tongue Weight: Any weight (downward force) that is carried by the motorhome trailer hitch. If flat towing, it would just be the weight of the tow bar-- around 40 lbs. If there are other terms you want defined, just let us know. Brett

Actually, unless you are familiar with diesel engines, after verifying the "plumbing" and that the exhaust brake is not stuck partially closed, I would take it to a Caterpillar dealer for proper diagnosis. That would be less expensive than replacing parts until the issue is found. Brett

Joe, Kind of difficult to diagnose suspension issues over the internet. But, leaning, particularly in the rear could mean a failed RIDE HEIGHT VALVE or a RIDE HEIGHT CONTROL ARM that is out of adjustment. While that is a quick and easy fix (with jack stands in place) by anyone who works on air suspensions (OTR trucks, buses, etc have basically the same valves), you will need to get the "Ride Height Specs" for your coach from Monaco/Monaco owners tech website. But, leaning would not cause dog tracking-- that sounds like a more complicated issue. A good truck alignment shop (4 wheel alignment) can address that. And, any good alignment starts with a ride height check/adjustment. No way for us to be able to "arm chair" whether it is safe to drive to the shop or not. If in doubt, ask the alignment shop if one of their guys lives anywhere near where you are and can stop by for a quick look. Another alternative is a mobile service-- but it would need to be one familiar with suspensions, not just RV systems. Tell us where you are and perhaps someone can recommend a shop near you. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Hopefully you will get some replies here, but there is a recommendation on this previous thread when I did a search on "Lauderdale": http://community.fmca.com/topic/3686-travel-up-the-eastern-seaboard-from-florida/page__p__20797__hl__lauderdale__fromsearch__1#entry20797

Yes, if all you have is axle weights, divide by two, BUT you will want to put 5 PSI or more to cover your ASSUMPTION that left and right weigh exactly the same thing. All wheel position weighing weighs each "axle end" rather than individual tires on the rear-- same as DOT. Some tire manufacturer's charts are for individual tires, some for "axle ends/both tires in a dual application". Just read what the chart says. Brett

Joelebo, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First confirm that you have the 4 air bag suspension NOT the 8 outboard air bag suspension. The trailing arm high failure rate applies only to the 4 bag suspension. Clearly, it sounds like you have a steering/suspension/brake issue that needs to be diagnosed before you drive further. Start with checking tire pressure. If you have safety stands, see/have someone qualified determine the cause of the malady.

For more up to date information on the repair status: http://www.511yukon.ca/ and: http://www.community...d_activity.html and more on the story: http://yukon-news.com/news/28943/

Start by disconnecting from shore power and generator and inverter (if fit) OFF. With a digital voltmeter (starting under $20 from Sears, Radio Shack, etc), check and record voltage at house and chassis battery (AT the battery). 12.7= fully charged 12 VDC battery, 12.2 = 50% discharged battery. Anything over 12.7 is surface charge and will disappear if you turn a 12 VDC load for a few minutes-- do that if above 12.7 until it reaches 12.7 or slightly below. Next, plug into shore power and make sure converter or charger or inverter/charger is charging: Voltage at any battery being charged will be 13.2-14.2 VDC depending on what device you have (actually, how smart it is-- smarter ones start at higher voltage). You house battery SHOULD be at this higher voltage. Chassis battery MAY be at this higher voltage-- some coaches are wired to charge both battery banks from shore power, some only the house bank. Generator should do exactly the same, since from the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) on, the electrical system is the same on shore power or generator. Disconnect from shore power and turn off generator. Get battery voltage at batteries at or below 12.7 VDC. Start engine. Speed engine up to high idle (1200 RPM or so. Check voltage at both battery banks. BOTH banks should read 14-14.5 VDC. Brett P P

Franke, If batteries show full charge when read at the batteries (i.e.around 12.7 VAC) and 5.7 on the monitor AND Measured VAC on monitor while on generator reads half of that a digital voltmeter shows, check for good ground at monitor, etc and if you can't determine brand and model of monitor, replace it. You might also post this on the Beaver Ambassador Club: http://www.beaveramb.org/

Don't know which brake you are fitting, but Roadmaster has pretty good installation instructions that are vehicle specific: http://www.roadmaste...sys_for_me.html You could also contact them directly and ask to speak to the person who wrote the installation instructions for your vehicle: Roadmaster, Inc. 6110 NE 127th Ave. Vancouver, WA 98682 Click here for directions Phone: 503-288-9898 Toll Free: 800-669-9690 Fax: 503-288-8900 E-mail: info@roadmasterinc.co

EXCELLENT (and inexpensive to fix).

Larry, Can't relate to your experience-- neither Dianne nor I went in a single shop or is that shoppe while on the cruise. We always find interesting things to do in each port and save our shopping for when we are at home. Obviously, a lot of people on the cruise ships measure the success of a trip in the number of "Diamonds International" they visit. Not us. I agree, it is sad to see that a lot of buildings within a few blocks of each port have been turned into tourist shops. If you look at the buildings from the first floor up, the building are as they were when we lived in Alaska in the mid 1970's. The good news is that there are a LOT of very interesting, very unique things to do in each port-- things you will never experience in the lower 48. Brett

Yup, first thing to check is all connections between turbo and engine: Turbo to pipe, pipe to CAC, CAC to pipe(s) and pipes to intake manifold. The other possibility is the the exhaust brake is frozen in the closed or partly closed position. Check that as well. If PacBrake, when is the last time you lubed it? http://www.pacbrake.com/index.php?page=maintenance-4 Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what motorhome you have-- there are several different slide mechanisms out there. Also, post what slide mechanism you have ( HWH, etc).

Deborah, Please tell us what generator model you have and year model. Hard to give advice when we don't know if this is an older mechanical gasoline generator, electronic controlled gasoline generator, propane generator or diesel generator. Any other symptoms before it quits-- stumbling, low voltage, etc?

Don, The two are related, as moisture plays an integral role in the formation of acids in oil. This is less of a problem today than in the past, as sulfur plus water produced sulfuric acid and was one of the more frequently produced acids. The ULSD fuel has reduced the amount of sulfur available to form acid.

Don, Best reason with a 2009 coach is to have no question when it comes to the engine warranty. Second reason is that moisture does form in the crankcase, particularly in a fairly humid area like S Texas.

Bob, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What is temperature in the refrigerator-- that is where the thermostat is located? What is outside temperature?

Franke, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Tell us what AC voltage monitor you have. And, from your post, it sounds like you have confirmed proper voltage (you said 117 VAC) with generator and on the shore power you are currently connected to. That sounds like a bad monitor.

A couple more photos from the cruise: 1. Leaving Juneau 2. Skagway looking toward the pass the gold miners climbed as viewed from our cabin window. 3. Sea Otters 4. Whale sounding.

RJ, No, not in Dallas area. Nothing unique about diesels. As long as you can find TDC and know how to do the adjustment on solid lifter engines.