wolfe10

K & L, The vent for the black and gray tanks are on the roof. And, given your symptoms, you do need to make sure the vents are open and properly located (i.e. haven't fallen down into the tank). There are several brands of venturi-type vent caps that will lower the pressure of air in the tank so tank odor is sucked out the roof vents, not into the interior.

apachedees1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Were you able to determine the cause of the failure? Clearly any resistance can cause heat, which degrades the part which leads to more heat...... A wire, not properly secured with the screw at the factory might be one such source. Brett

You are welcome. Glad it worked out. Brett

Boyles Law and the Ideal Gas Law (google them) are CENTURIES OLD and are still true today-- irrespective of what sales literature says to the contrary. Yes, there are a few advantages of Nitrogen over DRY air, such as slightly larger molecule so slightly less air loss over time and no Oxygen so no oxidation/rust. BOTH Nitrogen and DRY air have major advantages over WET air-- that supplied by most small home compressors and those coin op air machines at convenience stores (THEY DON'T HAVE DRYERS ON THEM). So, Nitrogen is great, but I would not pay a lot extra for it over DRY air. I refuse to air up my RV or car unless the air is DRY/there is an air dryer on the system. Perhaps if I lived in the desert SW this would not be an issue, but this time of year with the dew point in the 60-70's, it IS an issue.

RJ, A couple of manufacturers HAVE had issues with poorly designed or executed transmission coolers that allow coolant into the transmission. But, this is NOT a wide-spread problem. I would ask that question on your brand owner's technical website to see if this is an issue with your particular unit. If it is, Hayden makes transmission coolers of all sized. Note, if it working properly and does not leak, the cooler in the radiator works VERY well. In cold weather, the heat from the engine helps get the transmission oil up to temperature, and in hot weather, cools it. A separate oil to air cooler does not warm up the fluid in cold conditions-- in fact, can "over-cool" it. Brett

Tom, Have you checked voltage at the refrigerator itself (outside access door of refrigerator. Check connections to make sure they are clean and tight. Might look at the fuse back there to make sure it is clean and no corrosion as well. Brett

RJ, It is difficult to compare transmission temperatures with the Allison transmission between different coach makers, as there is no "proper" location for the sender unit. Some chassis/coach makers mount them in the transmission, some in the line out of the transmission to the cooler and some in the return line from the cooler. Different readings at each. If this reading is in the line out to the transmission cooler, that is fine. Because the torque converter in your Allison locks up at higher RPM's in 2nd", and is locked in 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th gear there is not a lot of heat buildup due to the converter slippage except in very slow stop and start driving. The transmission will generate more heat is when stopped for a long period with the transmission in Drive. Easy solution if you are stopped and transmission temperature starts climbing is to put it in Neutral until you are ready to move again. The other cause of added heat load is, as it is on any transmission, HUNTING. Hunting between gears is caused by a grade that is not so steep that it stays in the lower gear, but too steep to remain in the next higher gear. So the transmission shifts-- for example 5-4-5-4-5-4. This builds heat in any transmission. Easy solution on any transmission is to dowhshift so that the transmission stays in the lower gear until the grade eases and you can return to a higher gear. With your Allison, use the "down arrow" to select the lower gear when this occurs. After the grade eases, hit "D" or use the "up arrow". Brett

You have quite likely found the root cause if the issue-- loose connections on the inverter/charger. And, 12.5 VDC with the charger on is NOT proper. Suspect it is a three stage charger, so charging voltage in bulk mode should be 14 or more volts. After it has been plugged in long enough that the batteries are fully charged, the voltage in float mode should be 13.2-13.5 VDC.

Ron, Couple of questions: Have you checked the fluid level using the shift pad?: http://www.allisontransmission.com/servlet/DownloadFile?Dir=publications/pubs&FileToGet=SA3360EN.pdf Was this the same temperature you saw under the same conditions before the fluid/filter change? And assume you used Transynd (TES-295). Should have been about 19 quarts to change it. Brett

Check again after it runs overnight. Absorption refrigerators do not cool especially quickly and do start with cooling in the freezer. Norcold recall information: http://www.norcoldrecall.com/

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The "coolant" goes to the freezer first, then the refrigerator, so compromised cooling capacity affects the refrigerator first. Start by making sure cooling capacity is maximized: 1. Defrost if more than 1/4" of ice. 2. Do the "dollar bill test" to verify that the door seals are snug. 3. Insure that the restrictor is in the bottom/outside end of the condensate drain. 4. Check that air flow in the bottom and out the top of the outside refrigerator area is unobstructed. 5. Particularly if the upper refrigerator outside vent is in the side vs roof, make sure there is no "dead space" above the refrigerator that can accumulate heat. 6. Do the burner area tune-up as outlined in your Dometic manual. Even a slight decrease in flame size can have a detrimental affect on cooling performance. 7. Lastly, use a manometer to verify propane pressure. BTW, does it cool any better on 120 VAC than on propane?

Most are under the front of the coach. Look in the compartment in front of the driver's front wheel and/or the "nose". Tracing the vacuum line from the dash HVAC system may help you locate it. Brett

Thanks, Mike. Yes, that will place quite a lot of weight (weight of front of tow) on the motorhome hitch. And the more the overhang (distance from rear axle to hitch) the more weight it will place on the rear axle and remove from the front axle. You will need to verify that your hitch AND CHASSIS are designed for that tongue weight. You will also need to verify that axle weights are OK with the added weight (well more than actual tongue weight) to the rear axle and verify that the front axle has not been unloaded too much. Unless you have substantial reserve capacity on the rear axle, are near GAWR on the front axle and have several thousand pounds of tongue weight capacity, I would be very leery.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Start by crawling under and verifying that there is no sag in either the fill or vent line between side of coach and tank. If there is, let us know and we can tell you how to eliminate it. Said another way, both lines should progress downhill with NO uphill sections between side and tank.

To continue with Rich's description, the ignition switch controls an IGNITION SOLENOID (not start solenoid). As he asked, if items that only work with the ignition on don work (dash HVAC fan for example) find and verify that the ignition solenoid is working properly. With ignition on, you should have 12+ VDC to both large lugs. Brett

I agree with Bill. Water is all we use as well. Your goal is not to make black or gray tanks smell "good"-- impossible goal. Your goal is to keep the tank smells out of the coach. If all parts of your black and gray systems are in good condition, this should not be an issue. I guess some like the heavy perfume smell of some of the chemicals-- we don't. And it is NOT a septic tank. You have no interest in breaking down what goes in there, you will dump it long before chemicals or bacteria break it down ( I hope). As far as your current solids issue, start with a garden hose and nozzle. If that doesn't break it up enough to dump (I suspect it will), you may, this one time. need to use Rid X or other product to break up the solids. Another trick is to fill the tank 1/4 way with water and flush 20 pounds of ice cubes down the toilet right before you go for a drive. The action of the ice often breaks up solids.

What furnace do you have. Most of them have their blower motor (running the squirrel cage(s) accessible from the outside-- open the furnace outside access door). Do not use WD40. It is often possible to extend the life of the bushings (they are not bearings) by using a light viscosity non-detergent oil such as sewing machine oil. Brett

Different coach/chassis makers DO have different "deployment" order. Suggest you follow the order recommended by YOUR coach/chassis maker.

If it is on Allison's "approved fluids" list AND is less expensive, then you might consider using it. If it does not meet both criteria, I would NOT. Said another way, there are enough "Allison approved fluids" that I would not risk a non-approved one. Brett

Mike, Would appreciate a link to the website for the product you are asking about. Thanks.

Having lived in Texas for 45 years, I have never heard of what you describe. If the motorhome was a commercial vehicle it would fall under DOT governance. If this was a personal vehicle it would not. Was there a reason they may have thought his was a commercial vehicle?

Dinkie, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First oil change at 24,000 miles??? GM or Allison transmission- both were mated to the 8.1. If you have an Allison transmission here is a link to Allison's transmission recommended service intervals: http://www.allisontr...changeinterval/ Brett

Joe, I edited your title-- if you want it changed from what it is, just send me a PM (Private Message). Bill, et al; From FMCA Membership Application: Membership is conditional on ownership of a Type/Class A, B, or C motorhome, or a bus conversion, that contains all of the conveniences of home (including cooking, sleeping, and permanent sanitary facilities). Do I agree with this policy? No. But not sure this is the place to address the merits of modifying the FMCA By Laws to allow those with "AN INTEREST IN...." to become members. But, that might be a reasonable topic for another discussion. Brett Wolfe Moderator

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While I am sure most everyone here will laud the RV lifestyle that we enjoy so much, there is one minor "timing" issue. To be an FMCA member, one must already own a motorhome. You are certainly welcome to explore the lifestyle here on the forum before you buy and look forward to your becoming an FMCA member once you have a motorhome. Hope to meet you on the road/CG one day. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What brand mirror are they: Ramco: http://www.ramco-eng.com/products/Mirrors.htm Velvac: http://www.velvac.com/ Best advice would probably come from the mirror manufacturer. Brett