wolfe10

AGREED! I am a little surprised that a reputable tire dealer would do that-- really puts him and you in a compromising and potentially dangerous situation.

Don, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Does your system have an ACCUMULATOR in it? What pump do you have? Does this still happen when you open the faucet all the way, or only at lower demand levels? Brett

The lowest PSI on the inflation chart for your tire is as low as you want the PSI, even if it weights less. And cold PSI is NOT at a specific temperature-- it is before driving the tire at whatever ambient temperature you are in. So it could be 10 degrees or 100 degrees F.

If you can find out from Monaco who made their A/C components (very few RV manufacturers custom build dash HVAC's), you could contact them. And, if the condenser fan is not coming on, indeed, you will run high on the high pressure side. Electrically, the relay will be between the fuse and the fan.

Paul, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Since you went UP in load range, that is not a problem. That gives you more safety margin. I would not suggest mixing old tires of one brand and new ones of another brand on a dual situation. They are very unlikely to be the same diameter. and the larger one will carry much more of the load.

While that is possible, it is more likely that the low voltage is not enough to keep the solenoid "locked in". Again, I would start by getting the batteries up to full charge and just see if there are other Gremlins then-- even if you have to use a separate charger.

Don't use stop leak-- too many small passages to clog up. Engine repair is a LOT more expensive than radiator repair. Have a reputable radiator shop that works on OTR truck radiators (not engine shop) look at it with you to make a determination of what needs to be done and the relative prices.

Many of those Gremlins will go away with batteries up to 12+ VDC. So first priority is to determine why the batteries (house for certain) is not being charged from shore power. Sadly, there enough accepted ways to wire coaches, that we can't say for sure. It may be that the battery disconnect switch needs to be ON. It may be that only the house battery bank is charged off shore power/generator or it may be that both it and the chassis battery are charged. What converter, charger or inverter/charger do you have? Have you checked the breaker to it on the main 120 VAC panel? Brett

Sorry, I can't help with any specific information, but this will give you a good start in an area new to you: http://www.epgsoft.com/CampgroundMap/

Agree with RVerOnTheMove. A "regular" 20+30 to 50 cheater: Connects the hot from the 20 to one hot on the 50 amp female end of the adapter. Connects the hot from the 30 to the other hot on the 50 amp female end of the adapter. It connects the neutral from BOTH the 20 and 30 to the neutral on the 50 amp female end of the adapter. It connects the ground from BOTH the 20 and 30 to the ground on the 50 amp female end of the adapter. This will NOT work if the CG outlet 15/20 is to code and is GFI protected. As I mentioned in my first post, you could pull a totally separate shore power and breaker (separate hot, neutral and ground) that could feed, say the rear A/C. It would be in no way connected to the original shore power system. Perhaps that is what he did??

Actually, if the CG is wired to current code, the 20+30 to 50 cheater won't work, as code calls for the 15/20 to be GFI protected. Yes, there are a lot of older CG's where it will work. Brett

DLDinsmore, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I totally agree that there needs to be a compelling reason to spend the money to upgrade from 30 to 50 amp service-- not an inexpensive proposition. However, while it could be done from an electrical standpoint, I am not sure I would recommend a "hybrid" electrical system. Too high a chance that someone in the future working on the system would not understand, since the wiring would be TOTALLY unique. So, my recommendation is to live with 30, convert completely to 50 amp OR, if this is to run a second A/C, just add a 15/20 amp totally separate shore power cord and breaker just for the second A/C. Choose an A/C that will draw less than 12 amps and you will be able to run it on a house 15 amp outlet.

A boiling battery could be cause by a bad battery OR too much voltage. Either will cause the same symptoms. As an example, if one cell in the battery is bad, you alternator (functioning perfectly) could try to charge 5 cells (instead of 6) at 14 VDC. That WILL boil the batteries. So, first thing to do is to check the batteries when fully charged with a hydrometer (under $10 at any auto parts house). The other thing you can/need to do is check voltage at the battery with the engine running and at high idle. Should be 13.5-14.2 VDC. If you don't have a digital voltmeter, get one. They start under $20 at Radio Shack, Sears, etc and are invaluable in diagnosing electical issues on RV's.

No information on a shop in the LA area. But, you might give these guys a call-- they troubleshoot, repair and sell RV monitor and camera system. They may be able to help you diagnose the problem. http://www.rvcams.com/Default.htm They are in LA, as in Louisiana!

Slight correction. PressurePro batteries ARE replaceable. They are not owner replaceable.

Sounds like you need to clean the A/C EVAPORATORS. If you are safe working on the roof, buy some commercial A/C evaporator cleaner (same as would be used in a stick home) and clean them. Does require some disassembly, as you need to remove the A/C shroud and then the cover over the evaporator. Not an uncommon problem in humid area to grow quite a collection of mold, mildew and bacteria.

Marina Bay RV is not inexpensive, but is very close to several marinas and the Kemah Boardwalk. About 4 miles further south on 146 is this one-- more shade and a little less costly:http://www.kemahrvresort.com/

Can't help with parks north of Houston-- close enough to our home that we just drive on through. What day/time of day would you be hitting Houston? I ride my bike through Marina Bay RV all the time-- sites are a little tight, but full hook-ups and well maintained. Very close to marinas and Kemah Boardwalk.

Unless you are driving through Houston during rush hour, easiest is to just go straight through on I 45. The College Station route is a little longer, and has small towns on it. Not terrible, but no compelling reason to go that way, as 290 into Houston can also be congested. We drive this route all the time, as we live in League City.

Yes, a reasonable option is to splice the EMS in between the Marinco inlet and the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch).

DeWat, I would call Thor for detail on the installation of the shore power inlet OR, get a brand name and model off it, OR take a photo and post here.

James, Yes, if properly wired, your inverter/charger should work just fine on 30 amps. If you have a digital voltmeter AND ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 120 VAC, check the following on the 50 amp female side of your 30 amp male to 50 amp female adapter: Either outer straight (hot) to center straight (neutral)= 120 VAC Either outer straight (hot) to center round (ground)= 120 VAC Center straight (neutral) to center round= 0 VAC If reading are different, UNPLUG and let us know what your readings are. You could have a problem in the adapter, or with shore power, or in the coach-- but, let's start by verifying that your 50 amp female end of the adapter is supplying the proper power to your 50 amp shore power cord.

K & L, The vent for the black and gray tanks are on the roof. And, given your symptoms, you do need to make sure the vents are open and properly located (i.e. haven't fallen down into the tank). There are several brands of venturi-type vent caps that will lower the pressure of air in the tank so tank odor is sucked out the roof vents, not into the interior.

apachedees1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Were you able to determine the cause of the failure? Clearly any resistance can cause heat, which degrades the part which leads to more heat...... A wire, not properly secured with the screw at the factory might be one such source. Brett

You are welcome. Glad it worked out. Brett