wolfe10

Add the proper amp fuse inline at the converter end of the wire from converter to battery (based on wire gauge).

Follow the hoses/steel tubes from turbo to CAC (looks like a radiator-- actually it is an air to air radiator) and from CAC to engine. Make sure the boots/hoses are in place and clamps tight. Also, check that the exhaust brake butterfly moves freely (though the return spring is STRONG.

Herman, No, I used a HD barrel bolt into a steel plate on the TV enclosure frame. And the barrel bolt is into a tapped overhead frame member of the coach with four screws. Brett

Other than low fuel level, another common fuel-related issue on 10+ year old coaches is that the fuel line to the generator has started to break down. A small crack between tank and generator will allow air into the line. An easy test since you are familiar with working on the fuel pump is to run a gas line from a gas can to the pump-- see if that will keep it running. Brett

Betty, This is a write-up of what I did. It is on the Foretravel Forum-- don't know if you can access it without joining the group or not. If not, it is free and no junk mail received from it: http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=9618.msg42909#msg42909 Brett

Waiting for those with more Detroit Diesel two stroke experience. Your MPG at the speeds you drive is about average. Go to page 4 of this Caterpillar Corp document to see the HP required to run at different speeds-- the same physics applies irrespective of engine: http://www.catrvclub.org/PDF_Docs/Understanding_Perf.pdf Brett

The question on the exhaust brake is not whether it worked (butterfly closed) but, whether the butterfly completely opened when the exhaust brake was turned off.

Herman, If he has a Foretravel, he is probably already on the ForeForum. More detailed information is posted there: http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=9618.msg42909#msg42909

Two things to start with: 1. If you have an exhaust brake, VERIFY that the butterfly valve is not stuck shut. When was it last lubed? What brand is it? 2. Check "plumbing" between turbo and CAC and CAC and engine. Something as simple as a broken hose clamp could allow boost pressure to blow the hose off. Brett

John, Surprised you don't have a dash gauge for chassis battery voltage. Brett

Yes, did just that on our coach. Photos here: http://s588.photobuc...s321/dgwolfe10/ Photos 14 and 15. Brett

Before concluding that the starter is bad, put a voltmeter on it while someone tries to start it (do it safely with safety stands, etc). If voltage drops below about 11.8 VDC while cranking, remedy that before concluding that the starter is bad. Yes, the starter could be bad, but low voltage will cause a lot of the same symptoms. Hate to see you replace a starter is it is a loose or corroded connection or a bad battery.

Keep us posted. Brett

FREE Caterpillar Engine and General RV Maintenance Seminars at the upcoming Caterpillar RV Engine Owners Club Rally in Kerrville, TX. Here is the schedule: http://catrvclub.org...%20Schedule.pdf The Rally is sold out and we have a short waiting list. I have had an inquiry from a Club member as to whether they could attend the Maintenance Seminars at the Rally. The answer is YES-- any Cat RV Club member in good standing (i.e. $15 dues paid for 2012) may attend the Maintenance Seminars only at no cost. If you are an FMCA member (the Cat RV Club is an FMCA Chapter) and want to join the Cat RV Club, cost is $15/year, no initiation fee. Please PM me so we have an accurate head count (to PM, highlight my name on the left side of this post "Wolfe10", then click on "Send PM"). If questions, PM as well. Look forward to seeing you there. Brett

First step (may have already been done) with any new coach after loading is to weigh and set tire pressure per tire manufacturer's recommendation for that weight. Second is to get an alignment done after loading as you will be going down the road. Only after that should you consider aftermarket products (though there are some excellent ones out there). BTW, with any handling issue, please post what chassis you have and as much info as you have on actual weights, GAWR's ,etc.

Invest in a digital voltmeter-- they start under $20 at Sears, Radio Shack, etc. FAR more accurate than idiot lights. Remember, you are only working with 1/2 volt of working range between fully charged battery and 50% discharged battery. Brett

Another option for all states and provinces: http://gasbuddy.com/ Click on the state or province of interest and then on the city (or whole state/province) and then on the type of fuel you are interested in. Brett

Following Herman's thought process, if you check voltage from negative post of battery to clean chassis ground and find ANY voltage reading, you have resistance at the battery OR at the chassis ground end of the ground cable.

Let's clarify just what kind of "gunk" is in the hose. Is it a light viscosity almost clear grease? Is it black-- if so, greasy feel or particulate in nature.

John, The Echo charger is rated for 15 amps-- can't fathom that that is not enough to keep up ANY battery. Actually 2-3 amps is plenty as maintenance/float charge. Have you verified that all battery connections are clean and tight, including the ground at chassis end? Brett

John, Clearly, the Echo charger is not working. Check its connections and fuses. Once house battery is up to charge (usually 13.2+ DC) the Echo charger should maintain the chassis battery at the same voltage. Brett

David, Your house battery charging if just fine. You have two choices to charge your chassis batteries (and you need to do this, as batteries die very quickly when deeply discharged). 1. A separate small charger. 2. A smart relay-based battery combiner that will charge the chassis battery when the house battery bank is above a certain voltage. Either is a fine solution. Brett

I'm with Bill. Never used any chemicals/soap/etc in the holding tanks-- no problems in over 15 years with this coach.

Let's start with the basics. What are your GAWR's (from the sticker by the driver's area/door? What are your actual front and rear axle weights? What are your tire manufacturer's recommended PSI for your actual weight? Is that the PSI you are carrying?

Dean, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I straight Inverter, will not charge the batteries-- it only takes 12 VDC and "makes" 120 VAC. But, many of the inverters are actually inverter/chargers. So they provide both functions, serving the same "inverting" function as a straight inverter if no shore power or generator. But when connected to a source of 120 VAC, many of them are "smart" chargers as well. Tell us what make and model you have. Also, what size battery bank and what alternator. Though an A/C can be run on an inverter, it takes a VERY robust 12 VDC system to make it practical. Brett