wolfe10

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The "coolant" goes to the freezer first, then the refrigerator, so compromised cooling capacity affects the refrigerator first. Start by making sure cooling capacity is maximized: 1. Defrost if more than 1/4" of ice. 2. Do the "dollar bill test" to verify that the door seals are snug. 3. Insure that the restrictor is in the bottom/outside end of the condensate drain. 4. Check that air flow in the bottom and out the top of the outside refrigerator area is unobstructed. 5. Particularly if the upper refrigerator outside vent is in the side vs roof, make sure there is no "dead space" above the refrigerator that can accumulate heat. 6. Do the burner area tune-up as outlined in your Dometic manual. Even a slight decrease in flame size can have a detrimental affect on cooling performance. 7. Lastly, use a manometer to verify propane pressure. BTW, does it cool any better on 120 VAC than on propane?

Most are under the front of the coach. Look in the compartment in front of the driver's front wheel and/or the "nose". Tracing the vacuum line from the dash HVAC system may help you locate it. Brett

Thanks, Mike. Yes, that will place quite a lot of weight (weight of front of tow) on the motorhome hitch. And the more the overhang (distance from rear axle to hitch) the more weight it will place on the rear axle and remove from the front axle. You will need to verify that your hitch AND CHASSIS are designed for that tongue weight. You will also need to verify that axle weights are OK with the added weight (well more than actual tongue weight) to the rear axle and verify that the front axle has not been unloaded too much. Unless you have substantial reserve capacity on the rear axle, are near GAWR on the front axle and have several thousand pounds of tongue weight capacity, I would be very leery.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Start by crawling under and verifying that there is no sag in either the fill or vent line between side of coach and tank. If there is, let us know and we can tell you how to eliminate it. Said another way, both lines should progress downhill with NO uphill sections between side and tank.

To continue with Rich's description, the ignition switch controls an IGNITION SOLENOID (not start solenoid). As he asked, if items that only work with the ignition on don work (dash HVAC fan for example) find and verify that the ignition solenoid is working properly. With ignition on, you should have 12+ VDC to both large lugs. Brett

I agree with Bill. Water is all we use as well. Your goal is not to make black or gray tanks smell "good"-- impossible goal. Your goal is to keep the tank smells out of the coach. If all parts of your black and gray systems are in good condition, this should not be an issue. I guess some like the heavy perfume smell of some of the chemicals-- we don't. And it is NOT a septic tank. You have no interest in breaking down what goes in there, you will dump it long before chemicals or bacteria break it down ( I hope). As far as your current solids issue, start with a garden hose and nozzle. If that doesn't break it up enough to dump (I suspect it will), you may, this one time. need to use Rid X or other product to break up the solids. Another trick is to fill the tank 1/4 way with water and flush 20 pounds of ice cubes down the toilet right before you go for a drive. The action of the ice often breaks up solids.

What furnace do you have. Most of them have their blower motor (running the squirrel cage(s) accessible from the outside-- open the furnace outside access door). Do not use WD40. It is often possible to extend the life of the bushings (they are not bearings) by using a light viscosity non-detergent oil such as sewing machine oil. Brett

Different coach/chassis makers DO have different "deployment" order. Suggest you follow the order recommended by YOUR coach/chassis maker.

If it is on Allison's "approved fluids" list AND is less expensive, then you might consider using it. If it does not meet both criteria, I would NOT. Said another way, there are enough "Allison approved fluids" that I would not risk a non-approved one. Brett

Mike, Would appreciate a link to the website for the product you are asking about. Thanks.

Having lived in Texas for 45 years, I have never heard of what you describe. If the motorhome was a commercial vehicle it would fall under DOT governance. If this was a personal vehicle it would not. Was there a reason they may have thought his was a commercial vehicle?

Dinkie, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First oil change at 24,000 miles??? GM or Allison transmission- both were mated to the 8.1. If you have an Allison transmission here is a link to Allison's transmission recommended service intervals: http://www.allisontr...changeinterval/ Brett

Joe, I edited your title-- if you want it changed from what it is, just send me a PM (Private Message). Bill, et al; From FMCA Membership Application: Membership is conditional on ownership of a Type/Class A, B, or C motorhome, or a bus conversion, that contains all of the conveniences of home (including cooking, sleeping, and permanent sanitary facilities). Do I agree with this policy? No. But not sure this is the place to address the merits of modifying the FMCA By Laws to allow those with "AN INTEREST IN...." to become members. But, that might be a reasonable topic for another discussion. Brett Wolfe Moderator

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While I am sure most everyone here will laud the RV lifestyle that we enjoy so much, there is one minor "timing" issue. To be an FMCA member, one must already own a motorhome. You are certainly welcome to explore the lifestyle here on the forum before you buy and look forward to your becoming an FMCA member once you have a motorhome. Hope to meet you on the road/CG one day. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What brand mirror are they: Ramco: http://www.ramco-eng.com/products/Mirrors.htm Velvac: http://www.velvac.com/ Best advice would probably come from the mirror manufacturer. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, very high likelihood that the carburator is "gunked" with varnish. A replacement or an overhaul is best, but you might try running some Seafoam through it to see if that will clean it up. Suggest you turn off your 120 VAC main breaker, so playing with the generator (less than proper RPM) does not negatively impact your 120 VAC electrical system.

Even if you are using your levelers, having the coach/chassis/suspension as level as possible is ALWAYS a good idea, particularly for extended periods of time. Brett

Consider driving the low-side tires up on 2"X12" boards to get the coach more level. Just make sure that the whole tire is supported on the board.

Harry, By any chance was his name BUBBA? I guess professional and competent professional are not necessarily the same. Actually, I have copied another member of the FMCA Technical Advisory Committee on your question. He is retired from a career in the tire industry. Brett

Easiest procedure is to fill the potable water tank with the super chlorinated water. Let it sit and then turn on the pump and open each faucet (hot and cold) until you smell chlorine. Stop. Let it sit for a couple of hours. Open the potable water tank drain. Let it run out on the ground/pavement. The chlorine will quickly evaporate-- no problem. Fill tank with fresh shore water and run each faucet until no chlorine is smelled. Dump the gray and black tanks. The amount of chlorine in the tanks and the time it is in there is not a problem compared with an unsanitary water supply. Been doing this for DECADES on sail boats and RV's with no adverse affects to the equipment. If even this bothers you, use a bucket to catch the super-chlorinated water at each faucet. That will keep all of it out of the gray and black tank.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you talking about the house batteries? If so, they should be charged when on 120 VAC. Some coach's chassis batteries are also charged, but this is NOT a given. Unless you are certain the 15 amp outlet is properly wired, check it with a volt meter. Long straight is neutral. Short straight is hot. Round is ground. So from short straight to either long straight or round= 120 VAC Long straight to round= 0 VAC Do all other 120 VAC appliances work? If so, that proves your adapters, shore power cord and ATS are working. If you have a breaker for the converter, charger or inverter/charger, turn it off and back on. Also check the unit itself to see if there is a breaker on it. Let us know what you find and also what converter, charger or inverter charger you have. Another test to isolate the problem would be to disconnect from shore power and start the generator. If it works/charges from the generator, you have proved your electrical system from ATS onward. So the problem would be between shore power and the ATS.

If the starter is not turning during those 3-5 seconds, check out the the solenoid. If the starter is turning during those 3-5 seconds, fuel pressure OR an electrical issue could be at fault.

Sure sounds electrical to me. Do other items that normally only work with the ignition switch ON work as they should, or experience the same delay???

No problem. Good 4 lane with a few towns along the way.

Stuart, I'll try to address your question. The air bags are a standard, original equipment integral part of the P front suspension. They fit inside the coil springs on this independent front suspension (similar to Chevy PU). Without them, the front end alignment will be incorrect and suspension height will be too low/too close to the bump stops. 1500 miles without them could chew through a set of front tires and make handling and ride somewhere between dangerous and "less than ideal". If your question is whether it would be safer to move a P chassis with no/bad front air bags than a diesel pusher with defective air suspension, quite frankly, neither should be driven, though I guess it would be safe to say that moving the P would be "less bad". But, no coach, irrespective of type of suspension should be purposely driven if the suspension is significantly out of spec.