wolfe10

Don, Start by verifying connections. Next, start tracing from the battery end from where you go from POWER to NO POWER. And when you say no power from the chassis battery, do you mean when you turn the key on nothing happens? What happens when you hit the battery boost/combine switch? Brett

HomerLee, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please use the links/information in the post just above yours to get pricing. This is handled by staff at FMCA, not anyone on the forum. Thanks.

http://67.238.126.140/pdf/OS2161%20SideWise%20FeatrSht.pdf

Check with your chassis maker, particularly true if a Freightliner chassis (a fairly common issue). Brett

Herman, He could, but with the other electrical issues, it wouldn't be where I would start.

The two statements are not necessarily in conflict with each other. It could be that there is a high failure rate on aftermarket cooling units. That may or may not include the Amish units. So, that is the question I would ask of your service manager-- do you have any experience with the Amish cooling units, and if so do they experience the same high failure rate? I have no experience with any of the aftermarket cooling units, so please don't read this as a positive or negative comment about the quality of the Amish units. Brett

As Herman suggested, please do not type in solid letter caps-- hard to read and is interpreted as shouting. Thanks. Before pulling the alternator, I would suggest eliminating the batteries and battery connections as the source of the problem. Your voltage readings of 14.5 to 15 suggests severe overcharging, if that is the voltage they were maintained at for any period of time. So, start by checking battery water level. Next, I would load test them-- have someone crank the starter while you check voltage at the batteries. And, yes, 12 VDC power is needed to keep your diesel running/keep the fuel shutoff plunger in the run position. Brett

Planocat, Indeed, varnishing isn't the only thing that can render a carburetor DOA. It is, however, the most common. Brett

A varnished carburetor is a symptom of not exercising the generator enough. Said another way, the good gasoline evaporates, leaving a residue. Couple of choices: 1. Exercise the generator as it should be-- once a month for a minimum of 40 minutes at 50% load. 2. Install a ball valve in the fuel line and run the generator out of fuel (best if all electrical loads are off when you do this) so no fuel sits in the carb. 3. Use Stabil or other fuel stabilizer when storing the coach. 4. 1 and 3.

Mac8253 http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/toolbox/reference-material.jsp Click on "RV Tire Guide".

Details: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls/recallresults.cfm?start=1&SearchType=QuickSearch&rcl_ID=12V035000&summary=true&PrintVersion=YES Ford F53 Recall, Ford F59 Recall Vehicle Make / Model: Model Year(s): FORD F-53 2011-2012 FORD F-59 2011-2012 Manufacturer: FORD MOTOR COMPANY Mfr's Report Date: JAN 30, 2012 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 12V035000 NHTSA Action Number: N/A Component: POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:GEAR POSITION INDICATION (PRNDL) Potential Number of Units Affected: 13,239 Summary: FORD IS RECALLING CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2011 F-53 AND F-59 STRIPPED CHASSIS VEHICLES MANUFACTURED FROM FEBRUARY 1, 2010 THROUGH JULY 1, 2011 AND CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2012 F-53 AND F-59 STRIPPED CHASSIS VEHICLES MANUFACTURED FROM MAY 10, 2011 THROUGH OCTOBER 25, 2011. THE ‘PRNDL’ CABLE MAY BREAK AT THE ATTACHMENT TO THE TRANSMISSION CONTROL SELECTOR ARM ASSEMBLY MOUNTED ON THE STEERING COLUMN. IF THE CABLE BREAKS, THE TRANSMISSION GEAR INDICATOR IN THE ‘PRNDL’ DISPLAY IN THE INSTRUMENT PANEL WILL REMAIN IN THE FIRST GEAR POSITION REGARDLESS OF THE GEAR SELECTED. Consequence: AN INCORRECT GEAR INDICATION IN THE INSTRUMENT PANEL MAY PREVENT THE DRIVER FROM KNOWING IF THEY ARE IN PARK OR REVERSE, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH. Remedy: FORD WILL NOTIFY OWNERS AND DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION SELECTOR ARM ASSEMBLY AND THE ‘PRNDL’ CABLE ASSEMBLY

Two ways to attach this: Get the ride height specs for your chassis (you don't say what chassis you have). See if your ride height is to spec or has settled. Or, go to any HD truck spring shop and have them take a look at it for you. They should have the ride height specs for your chassis. Brett

Drain and refill capacity (inc filters changed) is approximately 19 qts. Allison sells a 20 gallon pail-- most economic way to buy it. Brett

A quick look under the front end will tell you whether you have a Workhorse P or W chassis. P has an Independent Front Suspension (A arms). W has a solid front axle.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Suggest you check with your chassis maker for what these two systems have in common. Most diesels use air pressure, not vacuum to actuate the exhaust brake. Most new diesels use electronic control for cruise control. Most likely common point is a FUSE. So, look in your 12 VDC fuse panel for the chassis. Brett

Larry, To compare complete specs: http://toyotires.com...-technical-data Click on: Complete Toyo Tires Medium Truck Tire Databook http://www.michelinr...ce-material.jsp Click on: RV Tire Guide

When the rod is all the way in, the brake is OFF, the butterfly is OPEN, it is not restricting exhaust gas flow. Also, check your air filter minder reading to see if you have any restriction on the air intake. When you start the engine and rev it up, do you hear the turbo spool up as usual? Should be very obvious, particularly if you are standing near any turbo diesel engine. After going over the basics yourself, you really need to get a diesel tech (preferably a Cateprillar diesel tech) to take a look at it.

You don't say what exhaust brake you have, but if a PacBrake, if rod "C" is all the way inside the cylinder, the brake is OFF: http://www.pacbrake.com/index.php?page=maintenance-4

You can access either the exhaust side of the turbo by removing the clamp to exhaust brake or exhaust pipe-- it is a little more work than removing the hose from the intake side. But, if the hose is older, it may split as you pry it off. Unless you are familiar with working on diesel, I would do the other checks first, as they do not require the same level of technical skill. While the turbo could be at fault, with boost going from normal to 0 suddenly, rule out the other stuff first. You have not told us what you found on plumbing from turbo to CAC, CAC and plumbing from CAC to engine OR exhaust brake status.

Stuart, Ya, I guess one could force enough into the tank to fully fill it, but one would have to keep re-setting the handle after it cuts off as the pump cut-offs are pretty sensitive (that is part of the OP's issue). And that would assume that the tank is not externally vented, which they are, at least in the generation of diesel vehicles all posters in this thread have. I don't know about the new ones that meet the much stricter EPA requirements.

Note: it is still the coach manufacturer who specs in what ORDER to deploy/store slides and jacks. Some have you level first, then extend slides. Some call for slides to be deployed first. There is no "one answer fits all". Please do check with your coach builder unless someone with the same make and model can quote from their manual for you. Brett

Herman, Let me correct your first statement: "Nitrogen is an inert gas that does not expand in the heat as much as ambient air does." Both Nitrogen and DRY, repeat DRY air follow Boyle's Law/Ideal Gas Law so PSI increases with increasing temperature exactly the same. PV=nRT applies to both. The reason for saying DRY air is that many get air at those gas station coin op pumps that do not have air dryers on them. Water is NOT an ideal gas (duh) so water with moisture contend will have more pressure change for a given rise in temperature. Brett

BUT, it is sure easy if the pavement is tilted toward the "vent side" for fuel to pour out as you fill. Be careful doing that.

Josiebops, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Hopefully, someone else with a Discovery will tell you how Fleetwood suggests doing it. WHAT YEAR IS YOUR DISCOVERY? Irrespective of any other advice, NEVER allow a rear wheel off the ground-- they are the parking brake and your coach could roll if the wheels clear the ground!

Ben, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Check both large diameter fill line and small diameter vent line from side of coach to tank. If there is any sag in either, it can cause your condition. If there is a sag, let us know, the fix is usually pretty simple and inexpensive. A trick that should help is to use the coach jacks to raise the side with the fill on it. That will give more slope to the fuel fill hose from side to tank. Brett