wolfe10

Yes, did just that on our coach. Photos here: http://s588.photobuc...s321/dgwolfe10/ Photos 14 and 15. Brett

Before concluding that the starter is bad, put a voltmeter on it while someone tries to start it (do it safely with safety stands, etc). If voltage drops below about 11.8 VDC while cranking, remedy that before concluding that the starter is bad. Yes, the starter could be bad, but low voltage will cause a lot of the same symptoms. Hate to see you replace a starter is it is a loose or corroded connection or a bad battery.

Keep us posted. Brett

FREE Caterpillar Engine and General RV Maintenance Seminars at the upcoming Caterpillar RV Engine Owners Club Rally in Kerrville, TX. Here is the schedule: http://catrvclub.org...%20Schedule.pdf The Rally is sold out and we have a short waiting list. I have had an inquiry from a Club member as to whether they could attend the Maintenance Seminars at the Rally. The answer is YES-- any Cat RV Club member in good standing (i.e. $15 dues paid for 2012) may attend the Maintenance Seminars only at no cost. If you are an FMCA member (the Cat RV Club is an FMCA Chapter) and want to join the Cat RV Club, cost is $15/year, no initiation fee. Please PM me so we have an accurate head count (to PM, highlight my name on the left side of this post "Wolfe10", then click on "Send PM"). If questions, PM as well. Look forward to seeing you there. Brett

First step (may have already been done) with any new coach after loading is to weigh and set tire pressure per tire manufacturer's recommendation for that weight. Second is to get an alignment done after loading as you will be going down the road. Only after that should you consider aftermarket products (though there are some excellent ones out there). BTW, with any handling issue, please post what chassis you have and as much info as you have on actual weights, GAWR's ,etc.

Invest in a digital voltmeter-- they start under $20 at Sears, Radio Shack, etc. FAR more accurate than idiot lights. Remember, you are only working with 1/2 volt of working range between fully charged battery and 50% discharged battery. Brett

Another option for all states and provinces: http://gasbuddy.com/ Click on the state or province of interest and then on the city (or whole state/province) and then on the type of fuel you are interested in. Brett

Following Herman's thought process, if you check voltage from negative post of battery to clean chassis ground and find ANY voltage reading, you have resistance at the battery OR at the chassis ground end of the ground cable.

Let's clarify just what kind of "gunk" is in the hose. Is it a light viscosity almost clear grease? Is it black-- if so, greasy feel or particulate in nature.

John, The Echo charger is rated for 15 amps-- can't fathom that that is not enough to keep up ANY battery. Actually 2-3 amps is plenty as maintenance/float charge. Have you verified that all battery connections are clean and tight, including the ground at chassis end? Brett

John, Clearly, the Echo charger is not working. Check its connections and fuses. Once house battery is up to charge (usually 13.2+ DC) the Echo charger should maintain the chassis battery at the same voltage. Brett

David, Your house battery charging if just fine. You have two choices to charge your chassis batteries (and you need to do this, as batteries die very quickly when deeply discharged). 1. A separate small charger. 2. A smart relay-based battery combiner that will charge the chassis battery when the house battery bank is above a certain voltage. Either is a fine solution. Brett

I'm with Bill. Never used any chemicals/soap/etc in the holding tanks-- no problems in over 15 years with this coach.

Let's start with the basics. What are your GAWR's (from the sticker by the driver's area/door? What are your actual front and rear axle weights? What are your tire manufacturer's recommended PSI for your actual weight? Is that the PSI you are carrying?

Dean, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I straight Inverter, will not charge the batteries-- it only takes 12 VDC and "makes" 120 VAC. But, many of the inverters are actually inverter/chargers. So they provide both functions, serving the same "inverting" function as a straight inverter if no shore power or generator. But when connected to a source of 120 VAC, many of them are "smart" chargers as well. Tell us what make and model you have. Also, what size battery bank and what alternator. Though an A/C can be run on an inverter, it takes a VERY robust 12 VDC system to make it practical. Brett

I'll address the second question first. IF you have a smart charger or inverter charger THAT HAS BEEN PROPERLY PROGRAMMED, it is safe to leave the charger on 24/7. Mine has been on for the last 7 years (same batteries) with no problem. If a "stupid" converter, the caution may be valid-- depends on what voltage it is maintaining at the batteries. What converter or charger do you have and has it been programmed (look in the device's owners manual for programming information)? To check water level, you can use a mirror, flashlight and a squeeze bottle to add distilled water. Years ago when I had wet cell batteries (switched over to AGM batteries long time ago-- they are maintenance-free) I took an old, empty squeeze ketchup bottle and added 2' of clear plastic hose that just fit though the opening. Insert the hose in the battery cell and squeeze until the level is correct. Another alternative to consider is one of the automatic watering systems.

Tom may have a different answer, but the electronic fluid level check is MORE ACCURATE than a dipstick. This would be particularly true until you calibrated a new dipstick. Brett

NO, it makes no difference whether it is legal to multi-tow in your home state. EACH STATE has its own laws on this, length maximums, weight restrictions, speed limits, etc and you must conform to the laws of the state in which you are driving. The exception is your driver's license and vehicle registration. All states recognize license and registration of other states. The only exception to the recognition of license and vehicle registration by all states is if your registration is in a state other than your home state for the purpose of evading sales/use tax (and you are caught).

Info on the 2000 model XC chassis is not on-line on Freightliner's website, but here is info on the 2002: http://freightlinerchassis.com/images/pdf/Fleetwood/XC0103-2002.pdf I suspect a phone call to Freightliner in Gaffney SC will get you the info on the 2000 chassis. Freightliner 800 385-4357 I am always shy about comparing one manufacturer's chassis with another. VERY like comparing Ford with Chevy. WHICH MODEL??? Ford Escort or Lincoln??? Both Freightliner and Monaco made a very wide variety of chassis, from straight rail, leaf spring to multiple air bag, raised rail, etc. Your mention of trailing arm issues is a perfect example. It applied only to Monaco/Roadmaster chassis with 4 air bags. The majority of Monaco/Roadmaster coaches came on 8 outboard air bag suspensions, so the trailing arm issue did not apply to them. Brett

Actually, I MUCH prefer to wire a toad battery charge line as follows: Coach chassis or coach battery positive (whichever battery is closer to the back of the coach) to 30 amp in-line fuse as close to the battery as possible to one large lug of a 40 amp constant duty relay with 8 gauge wire. Other large lug of relay to 4/6/7 way connector at back of coach and on to coach to toad wiring harness. If two small terminals on relay: negative to chassis ground, the hot/positive to any IGNITION ON source (hot only when ignition on). If only one small terminal (relay grounds through its mounting bolts to metal): to any IGNITION ON source (hot only when ignition on). From toad wiring harness to toad battery positive with 8 gauge wire with fuse as close to the toad battery as possible. The two fuses are critical, as both battery positives are HOT and could be a dead short if they contact ground. Also, run an 8 gauge ground wire from toad negative battery terminal to wiring harness to good, clean chassis ground on coach. Brett

David, Yes, let us know how yours is wired, then we can go through some easy troubleshooting. (as long as you have a digital voltmeter which start under $20 from Sears, Radio Shack, etc). Another easy thing to do is to VERIFY that all connections at the batteries are clean and tight. Check the chassis ground as well. Check battery water level as well.

Scipio, UT shows to be at 5,270', so lower octane is not unexpected. Altitude/thinner air lowers effective compression ratio and therefore octane requirements. Only problem occurs if you fill up with low octane fuel and then drive to lower elevation, particularly if there are steep or long up-grades to pull at the lower elevation. A quick "Google" of "octane altitude" brought up this: United States: in the US octane rating is displayed in AKI. In the Rocky Mountain (high elevation) states, 85 AKI (90 RON) is the minimum octane, and 91 AKI (95 RON) is the maximum octane available in fuel[citation needed]. The reason for this is that in higher-elevation areas, a typical naturally aspirated engine draws in less air mass per cycle because of the reduced density of the atmosphere. This directly translates to less fuel and reduced absolute compression in the cylinder, therefore deterring knock. It is safe to fill a carbureted car that normally takes 87 AKI fuel at sea level with 85 AKI fuel in the mountains, but at sea level the fuel may cause damage to the engine.

Where were you-- or more specifically, what was the altitude? Octane requirements decrease with altitude as does octane at the pumps. Brett

While driving, your engine's alternator charges both HOUSE and CHASSIS battery banks. While on 120 VAC (shore power or generator) your "factory installed charger" WILL charge the house bank and MAY charge the chassis battery bank-- Find out from Monaco if your model charges both battery banks from the "factory installed charger". Before we can give you advice on replacing the OE charger, you would need to tell us exactly what charger you have and also the answer to whether both battery banks are charged when on 120 VAC. Brett

Actually, I will start out with a "none of the above" IF, repeat IF you are looking at older coaches. Condition and particularly maintenance records become more and more important as a coach ages. Did it sit in a field for three years, or was it driven and maintained throughout it's life? I do mechanical inspections on coaches. I would much rather see a client pay 1.4 times "book" for a nice older coach with full maintenance records than to buy one for .8 of "book" for one that has had 10 years of neglect and will quickly eat up that extra money and still leave them with a less than desirable coach. Newer coaches-- book becomes more relevant. For bankers "book" is the focus of their interest.