wolfe10

As I posted above, I agree with Bill. A sediment only filter is an excellent idea for all water coming into the coach. Been using a 5 micron sediment only filter for decades. Only takes a few grains of sand (not that unusual in well water and not harmful to humans) to make a mess of a water pump pressure switch.

Larmans, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While there are some other much more expensive chemicals that you could use, common unscented bleach is by far the most widely used method of tank sanitation worldwide.

Yes, bleach is properly used to sanitize your potable water tank and system. What I do to dispose of the chlorinated water (a couple of times the concentration of chlorinated swimming pool water) is to stick my kitchen sink faucet (pull out kind) out the window and pump it onto the pavement where the chlorine evaporates very quickly. Yes, a little from that in the lines/other faucets will get in the tanks, but in small quantities. If you can't pump the heavily chlorinated water overboard, do it with the gray water valve open so it just runs through and into the sewer (same as you do with chlorinated water in the wash machine).

Jeff, You are welcome. Brett

Rusty, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please let us know what chassis you have. Have you checked power steering fluid level? Have you checked power steering belt for condition and tightness? Brett

Eric, Particularly with a relatively heavy toad (3,400+ pounds) compared with motorohome, you NEED a supplemental braking system. And, it will be required by law in many states.

The website **** posted says they are open 24/7. Have you called and asked for his e-mail address?

I agree on U.S. 50-- the "Lonliest Road In America". We take it anytime we have the time and are going east/west through that part of the country. BEAUTIFUL.

Suspect it is just an in-line check valve. It keeps water you heat up from flowing into the cold water part of your system if on the cold side. If on the hot water outlet side, it prevents water from flowing back into the water heater when the water heater is bypassed for winterization on some coaches.

Top valve when opening the outside access door or top valve in the inside/back? The top valve accessed from the outside is the: Pressure and Temperature (P&T) Relief Valve.

Wonder if you have a check valve that has mineral deposits on it? If you can access the back (inside) of the water heater, see if you can more closely identify the source of the sound.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Never heard of different internal connections between side and top terminals. My suggestion is to call the battery manufacturer and ask THEM, but it sounds like a bad connection.

Jim, In a word (actually two words): YOU WILL! Perhaps not on a 4-5% grade but on sustained 6% and higher you and other heavy vehicles (truck, gas coaches, diesel coaches-- everyone) can not. Having a Caterpillar, you may have already read the excellent "Understanding Coach (RV) Performance" on the Cat RV Club Website: http://www.catrvclub.org/forum/index.php. Look at the page that shows HP at the rear wheels need for coaches of various weights to climb a sustained 6% grade. You won't find ANY coach doing that at 70 MPH.

Dale, Start by looking in the owners manual/consulting Chevy for the oil viscosity they recommend for that engine for the ambient temperatures you will be experiencing.

The 4 hour minimum or 2 on/2 off may very well be great advice in Canadian winters, but if talking about near freezing temperatures (in the 30's-- yes 30 degrees F ABOVE zero) no need for that much time/ energy use. Yes, you are heating up 800 to 1500 pounds of engine. But you have a 1000 watt or so heater.

Hopefully someone else with your make and model will chime in, but look under the coach in the area of the potable water tank. You are looking for an open hose, usually 1/2-3/4" ID exiting the bottom of the coach. The drain valve is generally just above it. Brett

Assume you have a diesel. Let's cover two approaches: "Best Practices" is to use it at 40 degrees F or below. If around 40 for perhaps one hour. "When you must use it" varies with engine, but the further below freezing the more it helps. The colder it is the longer you would leave it on. As far as how long to run the block heater, most are around 1000 watt heaters. One to two hours is generally enough. I have seen people leave them plugged in overnight, but that is a waste of power unless you are in Arctic conditions. Brett

You are welcome. Glad it was so simple. Brett

I would not start under the dash. Start by locating the small 12 VDC vacuum unit/air compressor. Likely in one of the forward-most basement compartments (forward of the front tires) or in the generator area if that is in front.

Yes, many diesels have a separate electric vacuum pump to "power" the dash HVAC.

Yes, most of the dash HVAC systems are vacuum controlled. Start with the vacuum pump and work toward the dash HVAC control tracing the vacuum lines. Defrost is the default position in the absence of vacuum. Brett

Herman, Now, wait-- you live in Texas. You have to accelerate from a stop sign to more than 40-50 MPH or you would never get out of Texas. Brett

RJ, If the light illuminates when you press the mode button, you ARE in economy mode. Easy way to prove it: With engine warmed up and in power mode (mode button not pushed), accelerate at WOT (wide open throttle) from a stop sign to 40 or 50 MPH where it is safe. Note max RPM in each gear before the upshift. At the next stop sign, do the same, but after pushing the MODE button to select economy mode. Max RPM before the upshift will be lower in Economy Mode. Let us know what you find. Brett

Have them add a leak detector dye when they next work on it. Our dash HVAC works just fine and is 19 years old. You will have to determine the fix the dash A/C ($$$) vs use generator and overhead air ($$$) based on your needs. Here is a typical product: http://www.oreillyau...N1786&ppt=C0050

Make sure the viscosity of the oil conforms with both engine manufacturers specs for the ambient temperatures were you drive. 5-...... is lighter than recommended for most engines unless operated in Arctic conditions.