wolfe10

daPrinc, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. That advice is decades old. With the two filter/manual primer pump system you have, the recommendation from Caterpillar Corporation (not my opinion) is: Install filters dry and use manual primer pump to prime. Does that take 3 minutes longer than filling the filters with fuel or ATF that may be clean--YES. Is it a short cut that diesel techs use-- YES. Is it the "Best Practices Recommendation"-- NO. If you are here in Madison at the FMCA Convention, on Thursday morning at the Caterpillar RV Engine Maintenance Seminar you would hear exactly the same thing. As a side note, I have the same fuel filter arrangement and that procedure has worked for me for the last 156,000 miles. Brett

Yes, as long as your actual "Going down the road" weight is not over 32,000 pounds. Brett

Tim gave you the correct advice. Least strong component determines towing capacity. So in addition to checking coach receiver capacity, take the GCWR minus actual weight of your coach (your GVWR could give you a rough idea)= towing capacity.

Two possibilities: 1. Problem in the tank with the fuel pickup. 2. Problem in the fuel line from tank to primary fuel filter. A loose hose clamp or too tight a hose clamp that has cut into the fuel line and allows air in the system could also be the issue. Brett

Chris, To answer the question on Caterpillar recommendation for final bleeding of air from your particular engine, give the Caterpillar RV Hotline a call with your engine serial number. They can look up for you the procedure: 877 777-3126. And, as I have mentioned before, if you are going to keep the coach, I strongly recommend you consider installing the second fuel filter with Caterpillar manual primer pump. Sure makes this easier. Freightliner went back to building their chassis that way as well.

Chris, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First, 25 PSI is a lot more than I would use. You only need enough to move fuel from its level in the tank to the level of the fuel filter. Heck, with 25 PSI, you could have the fuel filter on the roof and still have adequate pressure. More importantly, I am not sure that the fuel tanks were designed for that kind of PSI. 5 PSI should be enough to raise the fuel from tank level to filter housing level. You don't say what kind of fuel system you have-- will need to know that to answer the question. Do you have one or two filters? Manual primer pump? What engine? And, have you looked in the manual for recommendation for final bleeding of air. With some, after most of the air is purged (which it sounds like yours is), turning the key on or activating the starter will finish the fuel bleed process. BTW, bleeding the air from the outlet IS the correct way to do it. Brett

If you got a clear liquid from your primary fuel filter/water separator, that was water. Diesel is golden in color. This is easy to see if you have a clear plastic bowl fuel filter rather than one that is all metal. Any layering that you can see in the clear bowl is a sign of a problem. Best advice that doesn't cost a lot of money is to buy a couple of extra primary filter elements. Continue to stop every 20-25 miles to check/drain water. As long as the water level does not reach the filter element (i.e. is only in the bottom of the bowl) the filter element itself has not been compromised. Once the filter element gets wet, it needs to be changed. There are some alcohol-based products that absorb water, but you are better off just removing the water from the system as some of these additives are not particularly good for the injection system. If you will be storing the coach before getting to that 100% water-free status, then an additive may be a better answer. Brett

Is the compressor coming on? What is voltage? Safe range is 108-132 VAC. What brand and model?

That is exactly what I do.

If this is a Ford F53 chassis with V10 (not V6), yes many have driven cross country. As with any motorhome, driving in mountains does take some getting used to as momentum is very different than in a car. Only other advice on a gas chassis is to change brake fluid every three years. Hydraulic brake fluid absorbs water and that materially reduces its boiling point. Brett

Good information as always from Gary. If you have an inverter/charger, pull out it's owners manual. Go to the section on programming. These inverter/chargers are smart enough that they will do what you want IF, repeat IF you tell them what you want. Things to be programmed are: Battery bank size. With 6 6 VDC batteries for the house, you have around 660 amp-hrs @12 VDC. Battery technology: wet cell in your case. Temperature: hot (unless you have an optional temperature probe). If you still have the problem with the inverter/charger properly programmed and terminals clean and tight, the next step is to see if one of the batteries may have a dead cell. A dead cell will lead to overcharging the other cells, as the inverter/charger tries to maintain proper voltage into 5 cells instead of 6. A battery hydrometer is inexpensive and available at most auto parts stores. As always, the more information we have on your specific setup (what charger, inverter/charger or converter you have) will allow more focused answers. Brett

First suspect is that running light positive 12 VDC is feeding back into the coach brake circuit. That could be from a bad diode allowing voltage to cross over. That could also be from a bad ground which can cause some very strange ground paths which might include that brake light circuit. Brett

Previous Post: http://community.fmca.com/topic/2363-residential-refrigerator-installation/page__p__11940__fromsearch__1#entry11940 Brett

Darrell, Let me confirm that it is the front A/C breaker in the coach main 120 VAC breaker panel that is tripping. What is voltage when this occurs? As voltage goes down, amp draw goes up. What amp breaker do you have for the front A/C and is it a 13,500 or 15,000 BTU A/C? With shore power disconnected, generator and inverter off, access the 120 VAC breaker panel and verify that all wires are clean, fully engaged and tight. Hopefully see you sometime next week in Madison-- Dianne and I arrive on Saturday. Brett

Manual or automatic?

Need to start with the basics. Disconnect from shore power. Start generator. If everything works, you have verified that from the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) on all is OK. Then, IF you are safe working around 120/240 VAC, check for correct power at the CG outlet. If that is OK, but still no power the coach, with power off, open the ATS. Plug in and check for power in and out of ATS. And this is much less likely to be a power surge issue than improper CG wiring. Brett

You might contact Henderson/Super Steer for information on motion control valves. http://www.hendersonslineup.com/products/motorhome/handling-suspension.html

Here is an excellent video on mirror adjustment: http://www.betterrving.com/Article/RV_Tips/RV_Driver_Confidence_Course_Part_1_Mirrors_Low_Bandwidth_Version

120 VAC goes from the generator to the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) and then to the 120 VAC breaker panel. IF, repeat IF you are safe working around 120/220 VAC, check for power in and out of the ATS. Particularly if the generator and shore power have been shut off under heavy load, pitting of the points in the ATS is not uncommon. Sometimes a light, sharp rap (like with the handle of a screwdriver) will free up the points in the ATS. That does not mean the problem is solved. Brett

If traveling at a significantly lower speed than other traffic-- good idea as long as the flashers do not activate your toad brake (depends on wiring of coach). Using truckers as a benchmark makes sense. Brett

Brenda, What time of year? How long do your have? What are your/your family's special interests? Brett

There are some excellent, good looking ceramic tile "look-alikes" that are not too heavy such as Congoleum Dura Ceramic: http://www.congoleum.com/res-products.php?product_line=duraceramic You would have to get down on your hands and knees to tell it is not real ceramic tile, but weighs only a fraction of what ceramic tile does and is much less prone to cracking. Be sure to use a flexible grout. Brett

What brand and model of jacks?

We may be talking about different devices here. The Auxiliary Start Switch= Battery Combine Switch= Battery Boost Switch is a device for connecting CHASSIS with HOUSE battery banks. An IGNITION SOLENOID (not to be confused with starter solenoid) is a device that, when energized by the ignition switch supplies chassis battery power to all items that only work when the ignition is on. Items such as starter interlock, dash HVAC fan, etc. Do all other functions that normally work only when the key is in the ON position work? If so, the ignition solenoid is OK. If none of them do, the ignition solenoid is not working. This could be caused by a bad solenoid or a ignition switch or wiring from switch to solenoid (solenoid not receiving signal from ignition). Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. As I am sure you are aware, there are significant differences between automotive and gas coach coolants and those used in diesel applications. Said another way, the Prestone you get at Walmart is not approved by any diesel engine manufacturer. Please refer to your engine owners manual for Mil Specs of acceptable coolants if you have a diesel. Brett