wolfe10

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not familiar with Tyron brand tires, and Googling came up with nothing. Or is Tryon your RV dealer's nickname for Toyo??????. And, what size tire do you need?

Ronnie, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best advice is to go to a propane dealer who converts vehicles to run on propane. Review with them the size of additional tank you could fit (permanently mounted) under your coach and how to plumb it to your generator/house. Were you remaining in one place for a long period of time, you could also consider an extend-a-stay. Again, you would need to consult a propane dealer to verify that your generator would operate OK on propane supplied by the remote tank connected by the extend-a-stay (some are Liquid LP generators, some Vapor LP generators).

Larry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Depends on your installation. I have had good luck on some installations with sliding the refrigerator forward a foot or so (toward the interior). Then remove the roof top vent cover. Access the bottom of the water line from the coach-side access door and the top where it goes into the refrigerator from the roof vent. If mounted in a slide, the upper vent grill may offer you access to the top/ice maker location. On some, you can snake a new hose from Lowes/HD into the 12 VDC heater "jacket". Haven't done it myself on a Norcold, but have on a Dometic-- see if that would work for you.

Actually, as you have found, right here in the Forum is a good place to get a lot of technical information(and it is free). Brett

Let me approach this from another perspective. It is NOT possible to make the gray or black tank smell good. That is just an unrealistic goal. The proper goal is to isolate the tank ventilation from the interior of the coach. Start by trying to identify where and when you get the smell. The where would include sinks, shower drain, wash machine drain, under sink check/vacuum breaks, etc. The when would include when parked, when moving, when vent fan is on, etc. The more details you give us on the where and when the better we can address your issue. Brett

Clicky: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-index

As Herman said, welcome to the Forum. Suspect you have an inverter/charger. If so, most have several IMPORTANT owner-settable parameters. Pull out your inverter/charger's owners manual and look up your programming options. They generally include: 1. Battery bank size (in amp-hrs). 2. Battery technology (wet cell in your case) 3. Temperature (an important one for you). If, for example it is set to cold temperatures it will definitely over-charge the batteries in really hot weather. Please let us know how yours was programmed and if you changed anything. If you don't have an inverter charger, but separate charger, let us know what it is. Brett

You have heard correctly -- chlorine is tough on a lot of materials. But, let's back up a step. Nothing, I mean nothing is going to make a black tank smell "good." Your objective is not to make it smell good, but to keep normal "bad" odors out of the RV. If this is the issue, you need to look closely at the tank venting. Do you get odors when camping? When driving? The more details, the better we can address the issue.

After you turn that furnace on with the thermostat, determine if the fan starts running. That is the first step in the process. Gas valve opening and igniter clicking happen after that. If no fan, use a digital voltmeter to check for 12 VDC at the furnace (open outside door to access). Brett

We may be getting a little off track here. The OP's ice maker in not working and he is looking to replace or repair the ice maker, not the whole refrigerator. Though, of course, replacing the whole refrigerator WOULD solve the ice maker problem! Brett

First step is to determine what is wrong. It may indeed be the ice maker itself, but may be the solenoid that controls water flow to the ice maker or the line from solenoid up the back of the refrigerator. Those plastic lines are often a failure item, becoming brittle and cracking. And, though replacement requires that the refrigerator at least be scooted forward and accessed from the roof or top side vent, the lines themselves are available at most hardware stores.

Please, let's stick with the original topic-- Leveling Motorhome. If you want to discuss a completely unrelated subject, please start a new topic. BTW, for some great information on mice control, go to the "search" box at the upper right of this page and type "mice". Some good discussions there. Thanks. Brett Moderator

Kelvin, I am really surprised if you sent that same well documented post including VDO part number to VDO and got no response. When did you send it? If more than 3 working days ago (currently Sunday evening in U.S.) would be worth a phone call. If that doesn't work, PM me with the e-mail address you sent it from and I will give them a call and see why they have not responded. Brett

Best answer is to contact Brake Buddy directly: http://www.brakebuddy.com/Support/Common-Questions Or call them: 800-470-2287 Brett

Yup, a bent cylinder is certainly one of the causes of a jack not properly stowing.

I can't think of any "good" popping sound from an electrical device. Possible causes: Relay getting hot and cutting off/on. Breaker doing same. Bad connection arcing. I would quit using it until you/tech diagnoses the issue. Brett

Dirk, Best source for that information would be VDO themselves: http://www.usa.vdo.com/generator/www/us/en/vdo/main/home/home_en.html Brett

Excellent advice on this one. As suggested, if you verify that you do have two furnaces and that the controls are set for the second one to come on, please give us details on exactly what happens: 1. Does the fan come on? 2. Do you hear the clicking of the igniter? 3. Does the furnace light, and if so, how long does it run before shutting down? Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Is the pyrometer in the exhaust manifold between head and turbo or downstream of the turbo? Readings will be very different based on location. Brett

Sorry, can't help with the wiring schematic, but a reasonably high failure rate item that can cause this is the ignition (not starter) solenoid. The load from all things that only run when the ignition is on with a DP is too high to run through the ignition switch. So, the ignition switch is only used to close the ignition solenoid/relay. So first thing I would do is see if other things such as dash HVAC fan that generally are wired to work with the ignition on work. If not, find the solenoid and check and/or bypass it. Brett

Recommendations to look up air filter replacement numbers based on the engine can easily lead you astray! Remember, the chassis maker specs and fits the filter. So, a particular engine used by different chassis makers may well have different air (and fuel) filters. Your chassis maker is the right source to determine the correct part number. Brett

Darrell, Lots of opinions on this one-- quite a lot of it depends on the chassis and jacks you have. The only universal YES to being level is if you wish to run your absorption refrigerator. Start by checking with your jack manufacturer to see if storing with the jacks deployed is acceptable. BTW, I have stored my coach with the HWH jacks supporting about half the coach weight for over a decade. Brett

Kberg, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. As posted above in this thread, suggest you contact Roger (oldusedbear) with your problem. Be sure to include the year and model and GVWR of the chassis. Brett

Herman, et al; On paper, shooting water through from the back would clean the radiator. The problem is that most rear radiator coaches are SANDWICHED cooling systems. No way for water shot from the back of the coach to go through the radiator, air gap, CAC and still have enough force to knock dirt off the front of the CAC where it is deposited. Were you to used enough PSI to do it, you would surely bend the fins of the radiator. That is why these sandwiched cooling systems have to be cleaned from the front. No, it is a "no fun" job. Nothing complicated, just dirty/messy. But driving a "40 vacuum cleaner" down the road requires at least annual cleaning of the front of the CAC. The number of rear radiator coach owners complaining about overheating, when they did not do that when new attests to the clogging of the cooling system.

Two recommendations. Caterpillar Corp recommends changing thermostats every three years. I believe your C7 has two in the same housing. I would replace them along with the gasket. They are not expensive or difficult to replace. Also, you mention cleaning the radiator from the back. The vast majority of the dirt will be on the front (front of coach) of the CAC. It is not possible to clean that dirt from the back. To see if this may be an issue, access the top of the engine from the bedroom or closet. Shine a strong flashlight inside the fan shroud/between fan blades. Insure that the perimeter is as clean as the center (the blades sling the dirt to the perimeter). And, yes, we will be in Madison.