wolfe10

FMCA has excellent "what is towable 4 wheels down" guides going back more than a decade: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-index Click on the model year of the vehicle of interest. Brett

Gary is correct for SOME coaches. But, on over 50% of coaches on the road, the converter, charger or inverter/charger ONLY charges the house batteries, not the chassis batteries. For those where the chassis batteries are not charged, in many cases, the battery BOOST SWITCH can be used. So, the converter, charger or inverter/charger charges the house batteries. The boost switch "combines" the house and chassis batteries so all are charged. Brett

If Bill's test shows the alternator bad (i.e. with engine running, large wire at alternator below 13.2 VDC) determine the brand of alternator. Call that manufacturer and ask for their recommendation for an authorized alternator rebuild shop in your area. Take the alternator to them. BTW, I do this as preventive maintenance every 100,000 miles. MUCH, MUCH cheaper to have a good shop put in new bearings and brushes before it fails than to buy a new alternator when the bearings seize up and destroy the alternator. I just had this done on my Hehr Powerline alternator-- cost less than 10% of the cost of a new alternator. AND much less chance of a breakdown on the road.

Tom, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Give Freightliner (Gaffney) a call: 800 385-4357. There are several well-known causes of complete gauge package malfunction on that chassis. They can walk you through the diagnostics.

Three thoughts come to mind. Hopefully, someone with the same coach will have the answer, see this post and respond. I would also suggest that you e-mail Monaco (the new Monaco) for that answer. Third, you might e-mail some of the larger RV satellite installers to see if they remember the setup on your model coach. Brett

John, Yes, you should be able to clear any air in the system with the manual primer pump (assuming the system doesn't have a leak). But, the fact that you find the filters half full of air and the manual primer pump easy to operate suggests that air is getting into the system somewhere. And, since even the primary fuel filter is getting air in it, it doesn't sound like an engine issue, since that is "upstream" of the engine or even the fuel lift pump. Wonder if the tech used a pair of vice grips or something like that to shut off the line coming into the primary filter and ended up putting minute breaks in the hose wall. Remember, since this is on the suction side of the system, you may not have any visible leak, as the leak is air INTO the fuel line. Brett

Start by checking all connections between generator and ATS/junction box. Loose wire connections are not that uncommon. Wire nuts are cheap! Brett

Brian, Sorry, I don't know where the ATS is on your coach. On ours and many others it is easy to access without removing anything else. Brett

Brian, Difficult to tell from that photo, but with 50 amp service, my next step would be to (ASSUMING YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 120/240 VAC) to open the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) and with shore power and generator off check all connections. Then start the generator and check for power IN and OUT. Brett

John, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Particularly if you jacked up the back of the coach, it would be easy to picture fuel draining all the way back from the fuel filter to the tank, leaving that 20' or so of fuel line with air in it. But, the manual primer pump should be able to pull fuel through. Certainly, raising the FRONT of the coach rather than the rear would make fuel flow easier. Unscrew the manual primer pump plunger. Pump it. If easy to pump, there is air in the system. If REALLY hard to pump, it is fuel and you have eliminated this issue. Be sure to screw the primer pump plunger back in when you are finished! While it could be something unrelated, it would be very unusual for the engine to run perfectly before the filter change and not run well after the filter change and yet be caused by something unrelated. If the primer pump will not keep the system primed (it will run for a little while and quit and then when you pump the primer pump it starts out easy) there may be a poor seal at one of the filters, perhaps one of the old as well as new gasket was left on, etc. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If you have 50 amp coach electrical service, do all other appliances work-- i.e. are both sides of your 50 amp box hot? If not and if you are safe working around 120 VAC, check for power in and out of the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) while on generator power. Brett

Or my preferred "Printer Friendly Version": http://www.pilottravelcenters.com/List_Alternate_View.aspx?view=printerFriendly&alternateViews=false Bill, Your ad blocker may be preventing you from opening the page. Brett

Tom, To find information on mounting brackets for your new toad compatible with your current Roadmaster towbar and also the installation manuals for the new brackets, just enter the vehicle information on this Roadmaster website: http://www.roadmasterinc.com/vehicle_guide/tow_bar_brackets.php Brett

Checking the primary fuel filter/water separator: First a question-- do you have a clear bowl so that you can see the bottom portion of the filter or is it all metal? I MUCH prefer the clear bowl, as you can see if there is any contamination (dirt or water) without having to open the drain. There is no real way to tell you how often to check for contamination. If all you get is clean diesel, you will never have anything in the filter but clean diesel. But, one tank of contaminated diesel-- well, you get the idea. You do not have to worry about the filter not removing the water-- that is done by gravity (water is heavier than diesel and WILL settle to the bottom of the filter. My advice is to get a clear bowl filter element and the first time you stop after filling up, look at the clear bowl. If it is clear and golden colored-- nothing else is needed. If there is any layering (water would be at the bottom, as would dirt), you need to drain until clear clean diesel comes out.

Bill, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A frequently asked, and important question. Whether to keep the battery charging device plugged in 24/7 really depends on two things: IF you have a "smart" charger, converter or inverter/charger AND, repeat AND it is properly programmed, you can safely leave it plugged in 24/7. No, not all smart converters are programmable, but most smart chargers and inverter/charger ARE. Programming involves alerting your charger to several things, as it is smart enough to fine-tune the charging characteristics: Battery size (in amp-hrs), Battery technology (wet cell, AGM, gel). Ambient temperature. Even the smartest charger can ruin a battery bank if programmed with the wrong information. And clearly, since ambient temperature changes between summer and winter, you need to input the change at least twice a year! Brett

David, There is no national policy or license requirement. The state in which your RV is registered dictates the type of license required. Here is another thread on the same issue: http://community.fmca.com/topic/806-license-for-motorhome-over-26000-pounds/#entry3910 Brett

Paul, Again run one of the other propane appliances located further from the propane tank than the water heater to insure good flow of propane. I assume you have 12+ VDC to the water heater, but you may want to verify. When the water heater is turned on, you said you heard the igniter clicking. You also need to verify that the gas valve is opening (hear it click/smell propane). Is the size of the flame at the stove normal-- if not, it could indicate propane vapor pressure that is not within specs. Brett

Tom, A good source for comparing MPG is the EPA's website: http://www.fueleconomy.gov/Feg/findacar.htm Brett

Herman, Yes, every generator manual I have ever seen suggests at least 50% load to properly exercise a generator. When I run the motorhome for exercise (as I did last week), I pull it out of the garage, start the generator, start driving (low speeds), turn on the roof A/C and at least one other device-- even the block heater. Drive 25+ highway miles. Turn off A/C and any other 120 VAC loads to allow the generator to cool down for a couple of minutes. Shut off generator and after 3 minutes of cool down, park the coach. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best advice is to call Fourwinds for their advice on how/where to caulk. As far as possible faucet or plumbing leak, can you remove the escutcheon around the faucet/shower control and use a light and mirror to check for water there? Brett

Stan, Actually, it is the opinion of Caterpillar and Cummins as well -- do not start the engine unless you can get the OIL up to operating temperature. If you can't do that, all you are doing is adding moisture to the crankcase. Brett

Stan, Can low voltage cause your symptoms -- YES. Can running the batteries very low on water (i.e. the plates are exposed) materially shorten their lives -- YES. Can you reasonably expect more than 5 years life out of wet cell house batteries with only "average care "-- NO. But, before replacing the batteries, put a voltmeter on them while activating the slide -- if voltage drops below 12.0 VDC, suspect them. Fully charge them and have them load tested. Replace if needed. And do NOT start the diesel unless you are able to drive it a minimum of 25 highway miles. It is better not to start it unless you can get the oil, not just coolant up to operating temperature. That can not be done except under load. Brett

As moderator, let me suggest that if you have a toad for sale that fits Tom's criteria, that you PM Tom instead of making a post. Remember, some people get an e-mail every time a new post is made. Thanks. Brett

We have used the Rogue extensively, particularly this winter when on the sailboat-- kind of hard to get the 35' sailboat right next to a land based Wi-fi antenna. I would say that it MATERIALLY BOOSTS the signal. Will it "leap tall buildings at a single bound"? No. Wi-fi signals are basically line of sight. If you are going over a hill, etc it is not reasonable to expect any booster to do that. But, I have found the Wave to be equal to or better than any other boosters others were using. AND I ASKED-- remember, as moderator of this website and on a boat for the winter in the Bahamas, Internet access was critical to me. I had to stay "on-line" as well as be able to hunt lobsters! If you want a turn-key booster, I do recommend the Wave. Can a computer geek build one himself for less money-- probably. But, I never built a radio from a kit, computer from a kit or booster from a kit-- and have no interest in doing so. Now, give me a diesel engine, suspension............ Brett

Per the FMCA 2001 Towing Guide http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-index the 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 has a curb weight of 3,968. And someone actually suggested you don't need supplemental brakes with that weight tow??? Brett