wolfe10

Waxing the whole roof makes footing very dicy for anyone who needs to work on it, that's why I suggested only waxing the parts you can see from the ground. And if aluminum, the amount of compounding before wearing through the paint is SUBSTANTIALLY less than were this gel coated FG. Said another way, gel coated FG is many many times as thick as is the paint on metal.

Correct, no 12 VDC power to the propane detector or propane detector signaling propane leak or defective sensor or defective wiring from detector to solenoid or defective solenoid will shut down the propane system. Look at your propane tank/regulator area. If you have a solenoid valve, it will be between the tank and the hose going to the propane system in the motorhome. Any wires other than for the gauge would be a good indication that you have a solenoid.

Bryan, Does your coach have an electric solenoid controlling gas flow. Many do as part of a propane detector system? Also, try closing the valve again and VERY slowly opening it.

Welcome to the Forum. If it is gel coated fiberglass, it can be compounded. Wax along the side that are visible from the ground, but not the center section where you or technicians would walk to service A/C's, etc. If Filon (random glass strands visible), do not compound. It can open up the strands and make water and dirt absorption much faster.

Both.

Verify that you have 12 VDC to the furnace (outside access door). Verify that the thermostat is working (signal is arriving at the furnace). Remove the electrical connections at the PC board (outside access door) and gently clean-- DeOxit from Radio Shack,etc is very good at insuring good electrical continuity.

Cecil, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. For an indepth discussion about PFJ: http://community.fmca.com/topic/2598-pilot-flying-j-official-info/page__hl__flying__fromsearch__1

Suggest you give Cummins a call with your engine serial number. Cummins 800 343-7357

OK, a couple of perhaps unrelated issues: 1. Generator won't start unless main engine running. That would suggest that the batteries that turn over the generator starter (most often the HOUSE batteries) are discharged or dead. With the engine running, the alternator is providing the amps to start the generator. 2. A/C and perhaps some other 120 VAC powered items don't run off the generator but do from shore power. First suspect is the ON GENERATOR breakers. There will be two of them. With generator off, turn both OFF and then back ON. If that doesn't do it, indeed check for power to both hot legs from generator going into the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). 3. The vast majority of slides work no 12 VDC from the house battery. See #1 above. If it won't work with the main engine on, check for breaker or fuse in that circuit. Brett

Really, no, I mean REALLY surprised that you can tow an AWD vehicle on a tow dolly. Two wheels of an AWD vehicle at road speed and two stopped??? Brett

Nancy, Any outside outlets? Particularly if the get wet, that is an easy "suspect". With shore power off, pull the outlet out and verify that no water is inside. Same for refrigerator outlet, since water can blow into the back of the refrigerator area. Brett

The time shown on a post also depends on the time zone selected in your (the viewer's, not poster's) "Profile Setting." Brett

Nancy, Let's clarify what is blowing/tripping. Is it the breaker in the 120 VAC breaker box? And flipping the breaker off and back on momentarily resets it? Is it the GFI itself, so pushing the "reset" button on the GFI momentarily resets it? In either case, start troubleshooting by unplugging everything plugged into the circuit that is blowing. This may include things like the 120 VAC plug for the refrigerator (accessible through the outside refrigerator access panel). You may also have items in the basement plugged in. If that doesn't trip the breaker or GFI, start plugging things back in one at a time until you find the offender. Another question-- has it rained lately or have you washed the coach. Many coaches have outside 120 VAC outlets that when wet can trip the circuit. Brett

Dave, Since you are in WA, Roadmaster is in Vancouver, WA: http://www.roadmasterinc.com/vehicle_guide/tow_bar_brackets.php And instructions for the towing bracket for the 1995 Subaru Legacy: http://www.roadmasterinc.com/pdfinst/909-1.pdf

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, the manual transmission Subarus are towable 4 wheels down. Here is a list of Towables for the last 10 years here on FMCA's website: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-guides-towing-four-wheels-down Just click on the model year of the vehicle you want to check. The only exception I am aware of is the 2011/2012 small GM cars such as the Cruze with automatic transmission. GM has still not compiled a complete updated list concerning which small automatic transmission vehicles in 2011 and 2012 are/are not towable. Brett

Locate the computer on the passenger's side of the engine. Right below that is the ground lug. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Hopefully someone else has experiences these very unusual issues. Did the Caterpillar dealer do a download and find any fault codes that would shed light on the cause of the problem? And ALWAYS when a unique electrical issue, remove, clean and tighten the computer ground stud located just below the computer on the passenger's side of the engine. Have seen some that the chassis maker did not properly secure-- intermittent ground on any computer controlled engine leads to strange issues. Assume you/they have verifies this is not a gauge issue, but an actual intake heater cycling on even after the engine has reached operating temperature. That brings up the last question-- is your engine operating at normal operating temperature? And just a matter of terms, but your Caterpillar 3126 will have an exhaust brake. Yes, it may be made by Jacobs, but is not commonly referred to as a "Jake Brake". A Jake Brake is also known as an engine compression brake and opens the exhaust brake at the top of the compression stroke. And exhaust brake is basically a really strong potato stuffed in the tail pipe-- it creates back pressure on the engine. Ya, it is confusing as Jacobs Corp makes both kinds of brakes. Please let us know what you/they find. Brett

Ron, Be sure to weigh that Dodge truck as well and make sure it does not exceed your coach's towing weight limit OR the GCWR of coach and toad. Brett

Have you done individual wheel position weighing? What did you find?

The towing guide for 2011 shows the lightest Explorer at over 4,500 pounds. That is a lot for a gas chassis unless you just HAVE to have that large/heavy a vehicle. Verify that it does not exceed your coach's towing capacity or GCWR when you add the loaded weight of your motorhome. Also, lots of posts on towing the Escape and it's transmission woes. Just put "Escape" or "Ford Escape" in the search box at the top right of this page. Brett

Rather than talking about side to side (body) difference, suggest you measure the chassis on each side and compare that to your chassis manufacturer's ride height specs. Bring the chassis to manufacturer's specs and THEN measure the body. The other issue could be side to side weight imbalance. What are the differences in side to side weight? If this is the root cause, any chance of moving weight around to better balance the loads? It is common to use shims or to add a leaf to bring the chassis back to factory ride height spec to compensate for a heavy side. I find that a preferable solution to adding air bags which have a different spring rate/travel than do those long leaf springs. Brett

Might also try pure silicone GREASE. That works on a lot of the seals and stays around a lot longer than the spray. Brett

Peggy, Good question. And the answer is YES and NO. YES, most diesel coaches have a battery boost/battery combine/emergency start switch just like most gas coaches do. They serve to combine the CHASSIS to the HOUSE battery bank. They can be combined to bring the battery with more charge to bear whatever you are trying to start-- main engine or generator. But, view this as an emergency technique ONLY. NO, that is not a solution to the chassis battery going dead. Repeatedly deeply discharging a battery materially shortens its life. Jumping the coach to start it (which is in essence what you are doing with the boost switch) WILL allow you to start the engine, but should be viewed as an emergency response, not proper long-term solution. The proper answer is to find a means of keeping the chassis as well as house batteries charged. If 120 VAC available where you store, that may involve a trickle charger or something like the Xantrex Echo charger to maintain the chassis battery. If stored outdoors with no 120 VAC, that may mean a solar panel and controller. If stored indoors and no 120 VAC that may mean totally disconnecting the battery bank during storage to materially reduce the rate of discharge.

Glad it worked out, Art. Ya, Dianne and I will be at the Caterpillar RV Engine Owners Club Rally in Kerrville April 15-20, 2011. My linkhttp://catrvclub.org/Buckhorn%202012/Buckhorn%20Rally%20Registration.pdf Will have a couple of maintenance seminars and a lot of fun. Brett

http://www.shurflo.com/files/RV-Product-Data-Sheets/4008-Revolution-Pumps/pds-4008-131-A65_E65_.pdf lists but does not picture a check valve for your pump. Brett