wolfe10

MAYBE. Turn off everything else (like battery charger, refrigerator to propane, etc) Plug in. Turn on A/C while watching voltage. If above 108 VDC you should be OK. The MAYBE part comes in because we don't know the size of the wiring in the house and the length of the run from breaker box. Smaller gauge wire and longer run could make voltage dangerously low.

Have you called Freightliner factory (Gaffney) with your VIN? Freightliner 800 385-4357

Yup, a pictures with dimensions would make finding a suitable replacement much easier.

Assuming the "default setting" for the Schumacher charger is WET CELL, that is close enough to the charge parameter of the AGM that this would NOT be the cause of the battery issue.

The symptoms STRONGLY suggest an electrical issue (rapid cycling from low to high PSI-- far faster than could occur with load/compressor). So, I would start with cleaning/tightening the electrical connections before cutting into the air system.

Yes, GREAT KISS solution.

What chassis? Sure sounds like a bad connection between sender and alarm or bad sender.

After several years of experience with "smaller vehicles", I agree.

Eddy, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what coach/chassis you have so we may be of assistance. What leveling system do you have? Is it not leveling properly when parked/leveled or in travel mode?

Have you downloaded the Cummins computer checking for stored codes?

Yes, on the 8 outboard air bag suspensions, you need to verify if the ride height is measured on the front or rear bags/in front of or behind the wheel. I know on Foretravel 8 bags, you measure ride height on the bags TOWARD THE CENTER OF THE COACH= front of rear and rear of front.

alford316, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Assume your chassis has two ride height valves in the rear and one in front. First, a question. Can you access the rear ride height valves from outside the coach or do you have to crawl under? If from outside, at least the first adjustment (rears) requires no safety stands. For the front (again, assuming one in the center of the coach) you absolutely need safety stands. Only exception is to let all the air out of the suspension and verify that you can still safely crawl under the coach. Yes, on some you can (some coaches and some "body thicknesses"). Another alternatives to safety stands is to drive all wheels up on 2X10's (still level) and verify that you have safe room with all the air out of the suspension.

Check battery voltage. If below 12 VDC, you can chase a lot of codes. So bad batteries, loose or corroded connections, etc.

With your Cummins diesel engine (assume ISC), use the DOWN ARROW to select a gear where you can keep RPM in the 2100-2300 range and use a little less than full throttle. The higher RPM turns the water pump faster and on most, also turn the fan for CAC and radiator faster. Use of Power or Economy mode still leaves the transmission in "automatic mode". The down/up arrows allow YOU, the driver to select the proper gear.

Yup, if we know what coach/chassis you have, we can give advice on remedies for overheating.

DonDuddy, Welcome to the FMCA forum. Please check again for your chassis, VERY unlikely to be Workhorse. Also, what brand jacks do you have? Model?

Heather, Call around to RV dealers and find one who can test the refrigerator PC board. The flame is now the way is should be (much higher flame/more BTU's than with the old burner tube).

Ron, A multi part answer: Doubt you will damage the hitch as long as the toad brake is off, etc. Guess if a really severe angle, it could do damage, but the hitch is designed for a lot more "jerk and pull" loads while driving than you will expose it to parked. But, if you are boondocking in a parking lot, lowering the jacks and extending the slides is often viewed as quite different from just overnighting "buttoned up". Also, if on asphalt, you will very likely damage the parking surface with the jacks-- so you will need to put boards under them to spread the load.

So, will the conversion be to 1 ride height valve in back and two in front OR one for each wheel position. If the latter, would appreciate a write up on what Freightliner is suggesting.

DougPeyton, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Go to their manual and look up their definition of "SEALED BATTERY". Suspect that is an AGM. Much more likely than either GEL OR FLOODED.

Thermocouple on that parts breakdown (#12): 1261692222ELECTRODE-SPARK/SENSE/SINGLE ELECTRODE/0.25”

With the burner tube removed, you can visually tell if it has deposits in it. But, the slit dimensions are important for burner function-- that is why I recommended replacement.

miturn1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is nothing special about RV dash HVAC's other than perhaps longer lines if a DP. Please tell us what RV you have-- we don't know if you have an older coach with R12 or R134A, gas or diesel. new or 30 years old.

The gas jet is the brass part from which the gas exits and goes into the burner tube. Follow the gas line from solenoid valve to find it. Haven't looked, but there have to be some U-tubes of this. Hasn't changed in the decades I have been annually doing the burner area tune-up. Again, before spending much time on that rusted burner tube (slits no longer clearly defined), just replace it. Andy RV parts house should have one in stock. If the refrigerator performs properly on 120 VAC, it IS worth fixing the propane part of it. If the cooling unit is bad (doesn't work on either source of heat, don't waste your time/money.

Absolutely could be a bad thermocouple. BUT (big BUT) if the flame is too small because of clogged jet, low propane pressure or damaged burner tube, a good thermocouple will not function properly and if it does, BTU's may still be too low for good refrigerator performance. Plus cleaning the jet is free. Cost of burner tube and labor involved is lower AND it IS BAD.