wolfe10

How about a link to the product if you want our opinion on it. A quick search for "Forever Tape" did not come up with much.

We seem to be straying from the technical discussion of Lithium batteries to discussions of lifestyle and the many ways RV are used. Let's close this one. Feel free to open a new thread here in Electrical to discuss batteries or in General Discussion to discuss lifestyle/RV use. Thanks. Moderator

Yup, the GOOD NEWS is that we can all choose how to use our RV's. Much more interesting than if we all want to show up in the same RV park the same week each year!

Let me suggest putting this thread on HOLD until Monday-- our speculation is not necessarily relevant. I have e-mailed staff and expect we will get more info when the FMCA office opens Monday. Thanks.

In general, absolutely true. But there are exceptions. On many coaches, the refrigerator, smoke detector, propane detector, etc are NOT controlled by the salesman switch. So, many consider this a "turn off all the lights at one time when you leave" switch.

Assuming this is a Caterpillar 3126 (I know the 1996 and newer ones used this engine), oil pressure is a non-issue. If not adequate, it will NOT RUN. Adequate oil pressure is needed to activate the fuel injectors. Let us know the brand of the dash gauge (most are labeled). If you don't know the brand, you might want to post on a Safari-specific forum. PM if you need a link.

Ya, the new OAT-based/long life coolants are the way to go. 6 years, put it in and forget about it! Think of it as the maintenance-free diesel coolant. The old-generation "Low silicate for diesel with added SCA" coolant has to be tested and SCA added every year.

troubador, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not familiar with LCR. Perhaps CLR? Does the label say safe to use in potable water system??? That would surprise me. I would sure start with draining and flushing the water heater and then put a couple of gallons of cheap white vinegar in an almost empty potable water tank, turn on the pump and run each faucet until you smell vinegar. Let it sit overnight. Repeat if necessary.

At least in the Texas City location, the driving test required a reservation. So, call ahead once you have your test out of the way (or schedule it at the place you took the test).

So, go by any DMV and grab to study guide. Take the written (actually on computer, as least at our location). That gives you a "learner's permit" Class B. Take the driving test and get your Class B Exempt License. Hopefully, someone in the Round Rock area can suggest an "RV friendly" DMV location. If not, call around and ask.

Hvacahand, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Indeed many of us here in Texas have a "Class B Exempt". Written, then driving test. Let us know where you live and we can suggest motorhome friendly locations. As Carl said, some DMV's are familiar with both requirements and getting you properly licensed, some are not. As with any law, ignorance on the part of a clerk in getting you the correct info/license won't do you much good if involved in an accident and don't have the appropriate license.

If you are referring to the appliances, most all RV's use the same appliances-- refrigerators, water heaters, water pumps, roof A/C's, etc.

Could also be something as simple as an ABS sensor with incorrect/excessive clearance.

Agree, the surfaces have to be totally clean. But, with the number of holes, I would not use a pressure washer-- too much chance of water penetration into the roof structure. Why in the world did they not order the correct width FG to make this a one piece FG roof???

Yes, you did it absolutely correctly. Once you get a - - (blank blank), no need to go further. Only need to use the mode button to "go further" if there IS a diagnostic code. Brett

If your Allison check brought up d-1 - - there are no stored diagnostic codes. That is what the blank-blank means.

And, engine build date may be well before chassis build date. Particularly true right after the date of tightening of EPA standards. So, common for chassis builders to buy large quantities of engines that are less expensive and less complex just before tightening standards. All perfectly legal and ethical.

moorep01, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you checked the transmission for diagnostic codes? Very easy from the driver's seat. Instructions in you Allison manual, or we can post that information here.

Al, Answers will range very WIDELY. Older or brand new? Factoring in depreciation? For only a single overnight, can't fathom that an RV would be the less expensive way to go. But if cost were the most important/only factor, doubt many would own RV's.

OK, mowed grass for third time. Probably should just get a GOAT.

skgershey,. Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Either with that test light or better an ammeter (digital voltmeter with 10 amp ammeter): Should not be many loads on the CHASSIS battery with ignition off. If this is the HOUSE battery-- Remove all fuses and install one at a time. Likely something like basement light that is not readily apparent.

But, even a brand new one will NOT be trouble-free!

francie1229, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If used frequently, no need to sanitize the whole system-- no different than a sticks and bricks house. The main "got-ya" is continually using shore water, allowing the water in the on-board tank to sit and sit and sit...... If that happens, then, yes the tank needs to be drained and the whole system sanitized.

What is actual voltage reading at the batteries after two weeks (or whatever time period you used) assuming starting from fully charged?

Yup, different battery technology has different "self-discharge" rate. AGM's much slower than wet cells.