wolfe10

Yes, it is puzzling. Electrons need a complete path, returning to the battery in order to move. But, the path can be different than just a wire. Moisture, dirt, etc can allow small amounts of current to flow. Have you insured that the tops of the batteries are clean and dry? BTW, nothing at all wrong with an older P chassis Georgieboy-- many here on the FMCA Forum have fond memories of just such a coach.

Let's go back to this statement. If. indeed ALL connections between battery and house are disconnected, chasing phantom draws would be unnecessary. If battery drop in voltage is more than their self discharge rate, either they have a problem or there IS some connection to the house. Also, a help if you tell us what coach you have/what batteries and converter or inverter/charger you have. Someone with your same coach may have experienced the same thing and be able to assist. Putting coach info in your signature means it is there on each of your posts.

llademan Welcome to the FMCA Forum. In a word, YES. You will be replacing them based on time, not wear.

Well, yes. At least enough of one to sweeten the grapefruit on the tree across the street!

As Richard suggested, voltage and inverter/charger output should be EXACTLY the same on generator or shore power. The inverter/charger has no way of knowing what the source of external 120 VAC is (nor world it care)-- 120 VAC=120VAC. I have no first hand experience with an Airpax inverter/charger. Have you properly programmed it? Per this manual float voltage for wet cell batteries is 13.2 VDC. Higher for sealed batteries: https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/electrical/dimensions_owners.pdf If it is properly programmed, next thing I would do is have the batteries fully charged and then load tested.

kimenker, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Which battery bank (chassis or house) reads 12.8 VDC when on shore power? What does the other battery bank read? Some coaches only charge the house bank from shore power, others charger both banks. Also, what converter, charger or inverter charger do you have. The "smart" ones need to be properly programmed for : battery technology (wet cell, AGM or Gel), battery bank size (amp hrs @ 12 VDC) and also ambient temperature unless you have the optional temperature probe on the battery.

Yes, if you do have hydraulic slides, you will have a reservoir. But, replacing hydraulic lines is NOT that complex or expensive.

Martha, Much of that answer will depend on the weather. That route is through some high country. If snow/ice, better to take the southern route. BUT, if weather is OK, we have taken that route in our DP and enjoyed the scenery. Yes, more elevation changes on 380 than either going north to 60 or south to I10. If either the weather is not good or you dislike mountain driving, go a different way.

Izokaitis, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Quite a number of things could be triggering the alarm. But, particularly if stored outdoors, my number one suspect would be the "antenna up" sensor. Most are standard home window alarm magnets/switches and sometimes get unhappy when exposed to repeated waterings. Replacement parts (yes on the roof) should be under $10.

Check for an outside shower that may have both hot and cold on and shut off at the head. That would allow hot and cold to mix.

Ron, Sorry, no first hand information on your coach's dash A/C system. If (OK, big IF) your A/C condenser is in line with the CAC and engine radiator, you COULD have a switch/relay that turns fan speed to high when the dash A/C is turned on. Many coaches (including our 2003 Alpine) do not, so A/C performance was not very good unless engine coolant temperature called for higher fan speed. So, I would ask on one of the CC forums.

Let me qualify that: The oil on the outside of the filter is "unfiltered". Unless you drain all of it before removing the filters, you will mix unfiltered oil with the oil inside that has passed through the filters. NOT a good idea. Better to siphon all the oil from the outside of the filters. Remove and replace the filters. Then, refill with new oil or if the old oil looks really good, pour that in. It will then be filtered before going through the high pressure pump and hydraulic motors.

Nice job, Richard. Very common on boats: https://www.westmarine.com/deck-plates

I am much less concerned with amps than float voltage. If no 12 VDC electrical loads, 0 amps is exactly correct-- as long as voltage is correct for your battery technology and temperature.

Be aware that "proper" float voltage is dependent on both battery TECHNOLOGY (wet-cell, gel, AGM) and TEMPERATURE. That is why higher end converters and inverter/chargers offer programming to better match charging profiles with ideal for exactly what you have.

Ray, Excellent diagnostic work. And, a lot less $$ than a new inverter/charger.

Ray, Quite possible that a bad battery temperature sensor (reading extremely high) could shut down charging. Ceasing charging with extremely high battery temperatures is a built in safety feature. No first hand experience with your model inverter/charger, but a quick check with them/your inverter/charger owners manual would tell you if the inverter/charger will function without the battery temperature sensor. Hopefully, your troubleshooting is leading you to the root cause of the "no float charge" condition.

hoskey, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Pump may be bad, but before concluding that open a couple of faucets all the way and try it again. If that doesn't get water flowing, see if you can blow in or otherwise slightly pressurize the supply line from tank to pump.

Ray, I agree- float mode is NOT working. Voltage in float mode should be in the low 13's. You can try resetting it-- disconnect battery leads from the inverter/charger and turn off 120 VAC for 15 minutes or so and reconnect. Let us know what happens.

Ray, What were your battery voltages at each stage of charging and then after the inverter/charger showed zero amps? And, there should be absolutely zero difference in charging algorithms between powering the inverter/charger on generator or shore power.

Suspect the fan motor has bushings, not true bearings. As such, a short term fix is to use a light viscosity oil (like sewing machine oil) where the shaft goes into the motor. Yes, it will take a long skinny screwdriver, etc to get the oil in there. Again, consider this a short term fix only.

OR structural!

But, the last 5 posts (6 counting yours) are current (within last 24 hours) and on the same topic. As long as the new posts are on the original subject, not sure it would be a positive to require starting a brand new thread on exactly the same subject.

With 20 amp shore power (assuming you have limited other 120 VAC loads) your inverter/charger should be set to "power save"/"power share" (those are Xantrex terms-- I don't know the Magnum terms), so that it doesn't try to use more 120 VAC than is "left over" and if properly programmed, it should have a float level voltage in the low 13's.

Ray, Is your heater 12 VDC? If 120 VAC is it on an inverter-supplied circuit? 12.6 VDC is fine for a battery at rest, but low for a battery on charger in float mode. 13.2 VDC is a more common float voltage.