wolfe10

Several issues could be at work here: 1. I have seen bearing end play improperly adjusted-- a dial indicator is needed to set it properly. If the tech just tightens the axle nut (setting end play to zero) it can overheat the bearings and damage the Stemco cap. Most tag axles as well as most front axles have end play specs of .003-.005". Spartan (number below) will be able to tell you the correct end play for your axles. 2. You need to insure that there are no bent or malfunctioning parts in the suspension control system-- ride height valves, their control rods, etc. 3. I strongly suggest you call Spartan customer support at 800 543-4277. Work through determining the proper weight distribution for your coach, the diagnosis and resolution of your issues with them. Please keep us posted. Brett

I am sure you are well aware of this, but there is no resemblance mechanically between the old air cooled rear engine Beetles and the new front wheel drive units. Brett

Herman, Wish that were true. But there are many manual transmission vehicles that the manufacturers have deemed as NOT towable 4 wheels down. All Mazdas for example. Please do refer to the FMCA website Hermann mentioned for list of vehicles approved by their manufacturer. Could some that are not on the list be towable-- sure. The manufacturer could even say they are not towable to avoid the liability even though mechanically they can be towed. The VW MAY fall into that category. Brett

Do you have a 120 VAC wiring schematic for your coach? If so, see if the non-working outlets have any points in common. While it could be two separate causes, start by tracing the wiring diagram back from the failed outlets. A bad GFI is a common issue. Start by unplugging any appliance in those outlets. It is possible that one DOES have a ground fault. Reset the GFI and test with another appliance or voltmeter. If that doesn't do it, it could still be a bad GFI. If so, resetting it may not be enough-- you may have to replace it. IF, repeat IF you are safe working with 120 VAC, unplug from shore power/turn off generator. Remove the GFI enough that you can check it with a voltmeter. Turn on 120 VAC (plug into shore power or turn on generator). Check in and out sides? Another reasonable possibility is a loose connection. Brett

I went through this exact same process last year when I replace an original non-working Datron dish and Wingard crank up antenna with a Kingdome dish/off-air antenna in one unit-- also on a Foretravel, also with FG roof. My decision was to remove the obsolete equipment and plug the holes, including the large center hole for the Wingard crank up antenna. I cut wood plugs for the large holes, masked off the holes and used West System Epoxy and FG cloth to seal all the holes. Sanded smooth and painted with Rust-Oleum "Universal Advanced Formula" "Gloss Pure White" (245199). You could also just remove the old screws and apply new caulk to them and rebed after removing the equipment. Not sure I would be comfortable just filling a large diameter hole with caulk alone. You do not want to take a chance on getting water into the plywood underlay that supports the FG. Brett

Yes, this is the order I would use: 1. Turn OFF and back ON the two breakers located on the generator itself. Restart generator. 2. If still no power to the house AND YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 120 VAC, with generator off and shore power off, remove the lid to the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). Start the generator. Check for 120 VAC on the "from generator" hot and neutral. If present, check at the hot and neutral on the "to house breaker box" side of the ATS. 3. If no power to the "from generator" hot and neutral, carefully check the connections between generator and house wiring. Could be nothing more than a loose wire nut. Brett

Don, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If you are going to store waste for a long period of time (like dry camping w/o dumping for over a week), it might help. But, let's address WHY you would use any product in your holding tanks. Is it odor in the coach? If so, you need to address how tank odors are getting from the tanks into the coach. Nothing will make the gray or black tank "smell like spring time"! Is it fear of forming solids in the waste tanks? If so how long between your being able to access a dump station? How full do you allow your tanks to get before dumping? What procedure do you use to dump the tanks? Brett

Boy, that is a serious enough issue that we may need to start it a separate thread-- How To Get Rid Of Pesky Grandkids. Don't know if any of the normal PESTicides work on grandkids. Maybe Ghost Busters can come slime them, no, never mind, they may enjoy that. Brett

Certainly warmer ambient temperatures hurt refrigerator efficiency. Said another way, if there is a problem, it is more likely to show up in warmer ambient temperatures. So, let's start by reviewing some of the items that negatively effect refrigerator efficiency: 1. Make sure freezer and refrigerator door gaskets are air tight. Do the "Dollar Bill" test: Close the door on a $1 (yes, a $100 bill works better-- after all it is an RV) all around the perimeter of each door. Insure that the resistance to pulling the bill out is uniform as you move around the gasket and reasonably difficult to pull the bill out. 2. Make sure the refrigerator condensate drain has the restrictor in the end. If it does not, warm humid outside air rises into the refrigerator adding heat and lots of moisture. 3. Check air flow in the back of the refrigerator to insure that there are no restrictions-- insect and animals seem to like to get in and nest in some of these spaces. If those check out, let us know and we can "take it to the next level". Brett

Yes, the majority of tag axles raise for tight cornering. If so they use the front/drive axle as the operative wheelbase for cornering. If they don't raise, they would scrub badly on tight cornering, and may therefore affect turning radius. Brett

Have you measured from bed platform to ceiling with bed up? Be sure to include thickness of sheets and blankets and ?pillows? that you will be leaving on the bed when stored. Brett

Interesting. Wheelbase and front wheel cut angles are the two major factors in turning radius (at least at curb level). Overhangs come into play in looking at turning radius if higher than curb level is being discussed. Brett

Bill, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Is this a Safari Trek with MagicBed? Do you have the dimensions? Brett

Clay, Thanks for the link. On page 6 of the brochure, it shows that the Ford chassis was standard, with the Workhorse W20 (20,500 pound GVWR and 26,000 GCWR) as the optional chassis. Brett

Yes, anything over 22,000 pounds for the W22 and 24,000 for the W24 would be GCWR (Gross COMBINED Weight Rating) which is the rating of the weight of the coach AND anything you pull behind it. The 22,000 and 24,000 as Clay said are GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or how much the coach can weigh. Brett

For the most complete information, to register your chassis with Workhorse and to check for any recalls affecting your chassis, call Workhorse with your chassis number: (877) 294-6773 or (248) 588-5300 You can also get the form to register on their website which would enable you to view the manuals on-line: http://www.workhorse.com/Default.aspx?tabid=104 Brett

Did you try to contact the truck enforcement division of your local/state police department to see if they would do the individual wheel weights for you? Brett

Trooper, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While plugged into shore power or running the generator, your converter/charger will charge the batteries, so the batteries will be able to supply the inverter with the power to run your TV. Yes, you will loose a little efficiency converting 120 VAC to 12 VDC and back to 120 VAC, but it will work. Many inverters have a "pass through" feature. They are connected to 120 VAC (i.e. have a 120 VAC IN as well as OUT) and when they "sense"120 VAC from another source, they just pass the shore or generator power "through" to your TV. Smaller, less expensive inverters do not have this feature. Another option would be to run the separate 120 VAC wire and outlet from inverter to TV as you plan. But when on shore power for long periods of time, just plug the TV into the original shore power-supplied outlet instead of the new inverter-supplied one. Brett

Ozite? If so: http://www.ozite.com/dfiles/headliner_cargoliner.pdf Contact information is on the link. Talk with them or even better, take some photos and e-mail them to Ozite. If this is not the material, perhaps a call to Winnebago will tell you want product it is and who manufactured it. Brett

Of what material is the ceiling cover made? Brett

OK, disclaimer-- I am NOT an entomologist! I did find this website with quite a lot of information on Lady Bugs: http://www.ladybuglady.com/LadybugsFAQ.htm The good news: They eat NOTHING that is of interest to you (unless you have a pet aphid). We have had them hatch out in an awning, but just asked them to leave and they did! Maybe they understood that we didn't have any pet aphids for them to graze on. They are one of the "good" bugs-- they only eat other bugs, most of which are harmful. Brett

Jim, Some bowls have a drain, some have a hole into which a water in fuel sensor is threaded. Some have both. Here is a link to Parker Racor that has a picture of a bowl with just drain, but shows part numbers for the other options: http://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/788...rial_Change.pdf As far as the PUR is concerned, here is their answer found on the document above: "Additionally, the plastics recycle identifier code (PUR) will also be found on the bottom outside surface." Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. My recommendation is to contact these guys on Monday: http://www.rvcams.com/default.htm They not only handle the Voyager line, but also are a repair facility. Brett

David, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. That would be a question for Winnebago who chose and installed the tank monitoring system or if you can determine the manufacturer of the tank monitoring system, they would be an even better resource. Brett

http://www.ramco-eng.com/products/Switches.htm Brett