wolfe10

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You will find one advantage in the desert SW compared with where you are-- substantially less humidity. And condensing all that water takes a fair amount of your A/C's BTU's. A windshield solar screen (outside windshield) helps reduce the "greeenhouse" heating. Some have tinted their side windows as well. Brett

Montie, I would start by minimizing moisture intrusion into the refrigerator. Do the "dollar bill" test to insure the door gasket is OK and the door properly adjusted. Ya, it is a motorhome, so a $10 bill works better. All you do is close the bill the the gasket area and try to remove it. There should be some drag on removal and it should be consistent all around the doors. Also, check the condensate drain hose (outside access area) to make sure the restrictor is in the outlet. If not, hot humid air "rises" into the refrigerator and makes condensation a really bad problem. Certainly humid climates encourage condensation, as do more frequent openings of the refrigerator door. Brett

CORRECT. There are coaches/chassis designed to be leveled first and those designed to have the slides extended first. Please follow the instructions in your owners manual or contact Monaco for the proper order for YOUR coach.

What area of the country? Brett

http://www.kileymold.com/ladder_bracket.htm Brett

OK, with the generator's engine running at proper RPM, start by flipping OFF and back ON the two breakers on the generator itself. Next is to trace power from generator to the motorhome's 120 VAC breaker box. There will be a junction box near the generator where generator 120 VAC output splices into the wire to the coach. IMPORTANT: ONLY if you are safe working around 120 VAC, check voltage there and on further "down-line" (or have a qualified technician do it). From there, generator output goes either to a plug that you have to manually switch to go from shore power to generator OR to an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). You have an ATS if you don't physically have to move plug ends around to go from generator to shore power. ATS's are reasonably easy to locate as there are three gangs of wires to them: generator IN, shore power IN, and OUT to 120 VAC breaker box. Check on both sides (generator IN and OUT) in the ATS. Brett

Richard, Were they/you able to determine the brand of the electric valve? Brett

Is it making any voltage? If so, what? And if the answer is zero, turn OFF and then back ON the two breakers on the generator itself. It could also be your ATS (if you have one). Have you checked with a voltmeter at the ATS or where the Onan wiring connects to house wiring (ONLY if you are safe working around 120 VAC!)? If gasoline (vs propane) when was it last run? Did you drain the gas out of it or put Staibl in the fuel before storing? And, if propane is it liquid or vapor? Does the engine sound OK (correct RPM, no surging, etc)? Brett

Is there a P trap on that line? If so, is there water in it? Brett

Here is a link to Family Motor Coaching magazine's annual guides to flat-towable vehicles that have been approved by their manufacturers for flat towing behind a motorhome without major modications. You must be a current FMCA member or magazine subscriber to view the articles. http://www.fmca.com/index.php/motorhome/to...04-towing-index The guides go all the way back to 1999. I am not aware of any change 1998 to 1999. As I recall, the Subaru manual transmissions ARE towable 4 wheels down, but confirm with Subaru. Brett

What generator do you have (and what watt)? What A/C? Have you looked at the voltmeter when this happens-- what is the voltage (and does it drop off just before the generator breaker trips)? Is this the first time the generator has been used in awhile? If so, did you either run it out of gas (only assuming gas-- model above will tell us) or add Stabil to the gas before storing? Brett

A previous thread on this subject: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=1514

Chuck, The hoses in the engine room are a lot more in harm's way than those run in a basement or frame rail-- heat, vibration, petroleum product exposure, etc. Many coaches have a splice at the front of the engine area. If not, a hose to hose barb fitting can easily be fit. At the very least, check them for softness, cuts or abrasion. Brett

Here is a thread on Changing Coolant: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showto...ng+system\ Scroll down to my 3rd post for the step by step procedure many of us use. Brett

It is my understanding (we are in Bonaire right now, so I can't call Caterpillar) that the chassis maker, not Caterpillar fits the dip stick. You can call the Caterpillar RV Hotline with your engine serial number to confirm: 877 777-3126. And then if indeed the dipstick IS fit by the chassis maker, call them. Also, verify the dipstick's calibration: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=388 Brett

Now, Herman, connecting to an engine control circuit to power a fan will only get you 5 minutes in time out-- no big deal. You will be out in plenty of time to join everyone for lunch. But, it does bring up a good point. With today's electronic engines and transmissions (both gas and diesel), one needs to be very careful with modifications, particularly with things like fans that can produce RF Interference as well as being an electrical load. Brett

Here is a thread of interest if this is your first mountain driving: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=225 Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. ALL are welcome. FMCA membership is made up of those with 25-year-old, entry-level coaches and brand-new million dollar coaches. Find chapters and events that are of interest to you. Brett

Yes, for the 2007 and newer Cummins ISC, there is an engine compression brake available. BUT, NOT for any Cummins C engine built before 1/1/07. It certainly would not be available for the OP's 2003 model. Brett

Manually is difficult because you are "fighting" a pretty heavy duty return spring. You can disconnect the arm at the butterfly and manually move it. You can also disconnect the positive wire (signal wire) from transmission to the air solenoid at the air solenoid. Apply 12 VDC from any source in the engine room to the solenoid side ONLY (don't "back-feed" the wire). You can also apply the lube just before you drive and turn the brake on/off multiple times. Brett

You have only one of these devices with the C7 Caterpillar. It will be some brand of exhaust brake. Jacobs makes one, PacBrake makes one, etc. They all work basically the same way: You have a switch at the driver's area that turns on the exhaust brake. When the switch is on AND the throttle position switch says the throttle is closed, a relay sends a signal to the Allison ECU. The ECU then does two things-- starts downshifting toward the "pre-select gear" (you will notice the left window/only window of the Allison shift pad goes from "6" to whatever the pre-select gear is with 2nd and 4th being popular choices) AND sends a signal to the air solenoid on the exhaust brake to open the valve which allows air pressure to activate the exhaust brake butterfly. The butterfly does indeed function as a "potato stuffed in the tailpipe" building about 55 PSI of back pressure to slow you down. There are two other kinds of auxiliary braking devices-- an engine compression brake (only available on much larger engines) and an Allison transmission retarder (only available on on Foretravel and OTR busses as far as I know). And the exhaust brake does need lubrication: http://www.pacbrake.com/index.php?page=maintenance-2 Brett

John, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I have no first hand information on the Sauer Danfoss pump, but you might go to their website: http://www.sauer-danfoss.com/Products/index.htm You could also contact them/their distributor" http://www.sauer-danfoss.com/ContactUs/index.htm Having the pump part number will be a big help. Brett

Thanks, Gary. Reposted Link. Brett

Here is another discussion on just that issue: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showto...=driving+course Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. This is likely two separate issues. It sounds like you have a pressure reducer on the shore water-- an excellent idea. 1. You may have lost the air cushion in the top of your water heater. Water (like everything else) expands as it is heated. If there is an air cushion, the air absorbs the PSI increase. But if no air cushion, the PSI has to go somewhere-- water isn't compressible! To reestablish an air cushion open the pressure valve (flip the lever) and a hot water faucet (with shore water and on-board pump OFF). That should siphon the water down and reestablish the air cushion. If a Suburban water heater and you have not replaced the anode in over a year, removing and replacing the anode will also reestablish the air cushion (along with doing recommended maintenance). And if an Atwood water heater, removing the plastic plug (and replacing with another Atwood plastic drain plug) and flushing the crud from the bottom of the water heater will also accomplish the same thing (along with doing recommended maintenance). 2. The pump should not be making noise all the time-- only when pumping. Are you sure it is the pump? If you can reach it, put your hand on the pump. Verify that it IS running (vibrating). Also, from a danger standpoint, verify that it is not hot. These pumps are water cooled (from the water flowing through them. With no water flow and continuous running, it could be a fire danger. Brett