wolfe10

The good news is that there is no reason to seek "consensus" on this. Reasons for each choice and up to each of us to weigh them out!

Easy to test IF YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 240 VAC: Outer straights are the hots (L1 and L2) Center straight is neutral Center round is ground. SO: Either outer to center straight or center round= 120 VAC Center straight to center round= 0 Outer straight to outer straight= 240 VAC

Yes, many, many states require special (but not Commercial) license for GVWR over 26,000 pounds. Certainly, we in Texas have exactly the same requirement.

Carl17, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, please do post a link to information indicating this applies to privately owned RV's. Thanks.

Yes, EITHER a bad fill valve or bad check valve in the pump can cause tank to fill. Next time the tank is empty, remove the hose from the "IN" side of the pump. Turn on shore water and see if it comes out the pump inlet. If not, suspect the fill valve.

KC559moho, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What engine do you have? That could make a real difference in recommendations. Also, what are the symptoms.

Good question. It would be extremely unusual for the refrigerator 120 VAC outlet to be off the inverter-- would really negate the purpose of having an absorption refrigerator. But, super easy to check. Unplug from shore power, generator off, inverter off: Either plug voltmeter or any 120 VAC device (hair dryer works well) into the outlet behind the refrigerator that the refrigerator is normally plugged into. Better be no power there. Now, turn on inverter and repeat test. Very likely it will still be "no power". If there is power, look for another place to plug in. I have even seen the two outlet plugs behind the refrigerator with one powered by shore only and the other by inverter. Generally the inverter outlet is for an ice maker.

I believe this is the site Bill is referring to-- an excellent resource for Safari Trek owners: http://www.trektraxs.com/ And, agree with Bill on the Koni FSD's for DP's, but the Chevrolet/Workhorse P is a completely different beast. As Bill suggested, check for current recommendations (shocks do change over the years) for your chassis.

Bilstein makes good shocks, but at 20 years old, that is where I would start. Have you gone to polyurethane sway bar bushings front and back. A LOT less $$ than replacing with larger diameter bar and should help if the bushings are the OE rubber ones.

Herman, My understanding is a bit different. After Monaco's bankruptcy, the "new Monaco" discontinued using the (more expensive) Roadmaster chassis and went with Freightliner chassis. I am not aware of any information that Freightliner would have (other than generic information) about the Roadmaster chassis. But, the Roadmaster chassis (there are several) has been widely enough used that many shops are familiar with them. And, replacing an air bag is NOT rocket science.

Your P chassis has front air bags (inside coil springs). What are they inflated to? Tire pressure correct? How old and how many miles on what shocks. Certainly good shocks help control body motion. Yes sway is the side to side motion you are describing. Could also be described as body roll.

At OP (Jeff's) request, this thread is locked. The discussion has been moved to: http://community.fmca.com/topic/11867-one-member-one-vote-change-to-convention-delegates/ Brett/Moderator

You can also purchase "properly large-gauge" pre-made interconnects from any marine dealer. Yes, more expensive, but the pre-tinned (marine grade) wire is MUCH more resistant to corrosion than raw copper.

Wire gauge for interconnects should be the same as the primary cables. What size are they now? Remember, an inverter can put a huge load on the batteries/cables.

Yup, 6.25% on taxable difference (price of new less price of trade-in). So, yes, trading in saves 6.25% vs selling on your own. Clearly, if you can't get more than 6.25% over trade-in value....

Actually, if you belong to multiple chapters, what you can do is "Influence your National Director's vote" in each chapter you belong to. That is, if you care to. As you know, many do not care enough to delve into each issue facing the governing board and express an opinion. When was the last time any of your chapters sat down and went through the many pages of documents that the governing board votes on and had individual members vote on each one???

Yup, having been in the automobile business for my whole career, I can tell you that INVOICE absolutely does mean something. And that it rarely represents the actual cost of the vehicle. But it is an excellent "reference point".

There could be several causes of this loss of hydraulic pressure allowing the slide to move. These include: 1. A leak-- should be able to see it. Look particularly at hose ends. 2. A solenoid at the HWH motor/pump leaking internally. 3. On many there is a manual "T" handle at the solenoids, on others, just a screw and lock nut-- it could be slightly open and just need tightening.

Actually, after Jeff (and hopefully others with governance experience to help style it) writes it, Jeff can post it here. Any FMCA member can copy it. Add the following: 1.We need each person's name printed name 2. A signature 3. Your membership number so we can verify you are active members Then scan into an e-mail to dmitts@fmca.com When she has received 20, she can post here, or let me know and I can post that and lock the thread. Should only take an hour or so after the Amendment is posted. Jeff, let us know if you need help styling it-- I am sure that there are some here with governance experience.

treebark, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Most coaches charge the house battery bank from the original equipment converter or inverter/charger. Easy to verify with a voltmeter. Check voltage before plugging in and then after plugging in. Most coaches do not charge the chassis battery from this charger. Again, verify with a voltmeter. And absolutely no problem if you find that the chassis battery is not charged to use a SMART small charger to keep that battery charged.

Please-- you are welcome to make comments pertinent to the topic "Proposed Change To FMCA's Governance". All others and certainly personal attacks WILL be deleted. And, if it continues I will have to lock this discussion. Thanks.

I suspect the answer he is looking for is "is someone willing to drive me/my coach to the licensing authority". I know a friend did that for me when I took the driving test for our first coach that required a special license. The fact that I had close to a quarter million miles in a diesel pusher was (legally) irrelevant. A VERY reasonable and prudent request.

Ljland60, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Tell us a little more about your coach-- Fleetwood made a number of different coaches with some differences in exterior skin: Is the exterior gel coated fiberglass or Filon (can you see fibers in the side, or is it very smooth)?