wolfe10

Patrick, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you re-checked for diagnostic codes (easy from the shift pad-- no equipment needed)? Same code? Safest power source for the Allison is to run two (one for memory and one for operation of the Allison ECU) directly from the battery with a fuse at the battery. The more things on the same circuit as the Allison ECU, the more chances that something will cause a spike (more likely than just high voltage unless your dash voltmeter did indeed show over 14.5 VDC).

Second picture-- the small ones around the electrical connection. They can degrade and allow oil into the connection. According to a retired Caterpillar tech (in my link above) the O rings can be obtained from most box stores, but perhaps not from Caterpillar. Again, this might not be the issue, but is certainly worth checking the connections for oil before assuming the injector is bad. If oil is present, replace the O rings on all 4 cylinders. If the connections are clean and dry, THEN go to the $$$$ fix. Certainly replacing the whole injector will fix it whether it is just a bad/oil-soaked electrical connection or a bad injector. But many $$ difference to your pocket.

gobernatz, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While coach information IS important (particularly in terms of access to the engine room from ABOVE (bedroom/closet) chassis information is also important. Would seriously doubt that you would have to remove the radiator AND CHARGE AIR COOLER to replace the belt.

stanvpi78, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please confirm your chassis is a Ford F53. Have you weighed wheel positions/axles and set tire pressure per your tire manufacturers recommendations? That is the first step.

Unless oil analysis shows that your oil has degraded, I would stick with factory recommendation on change interval. And, oil in the injector connection can show the same symptoms. Certainly worth pulling off the valve cover and checking all of them BEFORE jumping into the big bucks. Said another way, worth a "let's see if there is oil in there, and if any hint of that, use electric cleaner and new o rings" as the first step.

bwatters, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. And, in Cincinnati, check if they have room when you will be there so you can stay (free) at the FMCA CG: https://www.fmca.com/benefits/campground-in-cincinnati.html

If Bill has and wants to share info on propane injection, let me suggest starting a new thread. Pretty unrelated to "Lack of air pressure". Thanks.

I would SURE get a "second opinion"-- preferably from a Caterpillar dealer/tech. Could be nothing more than oil in the injector electrical connection. Same symptoms and $10 in parts. Read through this whole thread (below). There are some diagnostics to identify the issue and then the "fix": http://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php/topic,7558.0.html

rcieslak67, Assume the HR has a tag axle and the Expedition did not.

Some, but clearly not the majority have some means of charging the chassis battery bank in addition to the alternator. So, first question is: does your coach have one? Check with your coach maker for the answer. If the answer is no, there are several options: Small, dedicated smart charger Smart "thief" device that takes some power from the house bank when house bank is above a certain voltage (house battery bank being charged by your inverter/charger when on shore power or generator).

Bill, Your posts on electronic have been most helpful. Would be great if you could continue to monitor and contribute to those issues. With that, I am going to lock this thread-- no need for yet another philosophical discussion on what IS a fait complet.

Be aware that this thread is over 6 months old and the comments applied to a DIFFERENT Verizon plan than the current one. Going to lock this thread, as comments are not related to the current plan.

To my knowledge, DP's have on solid rear axles. So, Camber is not adjustable (unless you bend that huge axle). Toe is not adjustable. Caster is adjustable by changing RIDE HEIGHT. But, not use rear wheel caster change is important. Now, as to whether the rear axle is "aligned" with the front is another matter. "Dog tracking" is caused by the rear axle NOT being in parallel with front axle.

gypsyken, As a scientist, suspect you know that there can be NO ANSWER to your question. How can one know how many accidents were avoided by stopping 15-20' shorter, since "no accident" is something that is not recorded. Kind of the same thing as trying to prove that ABS brakes are or are not useful. Same for exhaust brake/no exhaust brake. Or even driving 10 MPH faster/slower. All of these logically can impact the number and severity of accidents, but can't imagine finding data to support it.

Oh, stop whining, or is that wineing. You can always fill it up...... again.

Agree. As Keon said, the Invisibrake does two things when you step on the coach service brakes: build vacuum for the vacuum boost AND use positive pressure (which is adjustable) to apply the brake pedal. So braking is exactly as when you are driving the toad and using the brake with amount of braking adjustable easily with the knob on the unit that is normally located under the driver's seat.

If replacing the governor doesn't solve it, next is to look at either compressor or dryer: If compressor was working fine before shutting down, search on-line for a manual for you make and model and at least verify that the unloader is not seized/is working properly. More likely that the valves are staying open than that the "compression" just went from good to bad all at once. Sure, a dryer can fail, but most common failure is of the purge valve-- you would certainly here it if it was not seating.

Yup, unless you have a massive air leak (which you should hear) the governor is highly suspect. Try a couple of light, sharp raps on it. If no change, replace it-- under $25.

https://www.wunderground.com/forecast/us/ca/indio/92201

Yes, higher end coaches have less rattles. Simpler construction (no or fewer slides) leads to fewer rattles. But on all of them, it is a matter of identifying and solving them as they appear. I will have Dianne drive on a stretch of road where we hear the noise and I will "hunt it down". Many times, it is nothing more than a pot or pan, something in the oven, etc. BTW, felt dots (come in a 100 pack from Walmart) solve a lot of cabinet and drawer rattles!

If Robert Henderson is involved, he likely has a good solution-- he knows his business. But there are two ways to achieve more shock dampening-- more shocks OR larger shocks. Koni, for example has 88, 90 and 99 series shocks. The piston dimension on the 99 is almost TWICE the size of the piston on the 88 series. So, the larger shock can reliably generate quite a lot more dampening without sacrificing shock life.

Yup, two most probable causes are a failed tank fill valve (usually a ball valve) OR the potable water check valve.

Only question at this point is "8 shocks, 2 per wheel". OE was only 4 per chassis/one per wheel position.

Of the 9 posts on this thread, only these two or on the original topic. Others deleted. Please, you are welcome to discuss other things, but starting a new TOPIC insures that those interested in that subject will see it. Thanks. Moderator

OK, this one has run its course. Topic closed. Just an observation: Everyone is welcome to their opinions. But everyone here is sharp enough to KNOW or at least suspect what topics will elicit strong and polar opinions. Assuming one's objective is not just to stir controversy, perhaps better to not bring up those really controversial subjects.