wolfe10

Yup, one of the VERY few "we sell them, repair them and KNOW about them" places left.

michaeljwest, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Where are you located. There are companies around the country who specialize in RV windows and window repair-- I am familiar with one in Searcy, Arkansas and one in Hudson, Florida. I am sure there are others.

You are welcome. Please let us know what you find. Thanks.

A problem with water pressure when not on shore water indicates an issue with the on-board pump or blockage somewhere in the system. Have you checked the filter that most pumps have just before the pump? Low pressure only at toilet or at all faucets?

You need to go to another auto parts house! OR Tell them specifically what part you need and show them a picture. Again, if you post here what you are trying to identify, we have several Forum members familiar with your coach/chassis. For suspension information, tell us if you are on a Torsilastic or air suspension, as they are VERY different.

Ford and Chevrolet are gasoline powered chassis. You have a diesel-- more specifically a Diesel Pusher. Caterpillar 3126 engine, rear radiator and Allison 3000 series transmission. Could be Torsilastic suspension or could be air suspension. What specifically are you wanting information on?

The way most CG's interpret this is "we have the right to refuse RV's over 10 years old". I like the rule, though all but one of our motorhomes were over 10 years old. As most interpret it, it is there keep derelicts out. We have NEVER been turned down once they see our coach.

Since the FMCA Towing Guide is not out until January, I would compare the towing section of the 2018 with 2017 owners manual. Probably better information than calling Honda and talking with a "customer relations person".

Yes, the defective (or "quick to fail") boots are on the IFS front suspension ball joints.

Interesting. If I can get my fingernail into a crack in the sidewall of a tire, it IS the tire and not an additive (and I replace it).

Ray, I agree with you-- suspect the attendee misunderstood the tire seminar presenter. Hope that is the case rather than the presenter giving bad information. The emoluments in tires that help protect it from cracking do migrate to the surface when driven and do help protect the tire from cracking. But there is no "cure" for cracking. So it is a matter of slowing down the process that one achieves by proper "care and feeding" of their tires.

curryra, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please re-read both my post and the one I am quoting. I ABSOLUTELY agree with you that an auxiliary braking system is needed! Sorry if that was not clear.

tedsfam, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please rethink "not using a toad brake on a 3,600+ pound vehicle". BTW, what motorhome/chassis do you have?

Only in some BACKWARD country.

Heck, been in "time out" before and will be again! Happy Thanksgiving.

Indeed there are a number of viable alternatives to battery isolators and even two distinctly different types of battery isolators-- diode-based and solenoid-based. One of the simplest that still allows battery bank separation (so discharging the house bank will not take down the chassis bank) is a simple marine ON-OFF switch. Alternator B+ and chassis battery to one lug and coach battery to the other. Switch OFF and chassis battery will be charged. ON and both banks will be charged. With a DP, pretty easy to mount at foot of bed where easily switched from inside the coach. Been there, done that. BUT (read that a BIG BUT) one needs a complete understanding of their charging system to successfully modify it. Does the alternator have an external sense wire? Does the alternator have an ign hot excite wire. What type of battery isolator is used? Questions like these MUST be understood before it is reasonable to modify factory wiring.

Replacing the whole motor? What happened to the original motor??? Or what part of it?

Another interesting area/CG that we enjoy when on that route just west of Carrizozo, NM on 380 is: https://www.blm.gov/visit/valley-of-fires Don't know if this google satellite view link will work. If not, do your own-- that VERY recent lava flow is worth a look: https://www.google.com/maps/@33.6856887,-105.9314143,10952m/data=!3m1!1e3

You need to re-contact the dealer. If salesman unable (actually unwilling) to get you the DOT date code, ask to speak to the warehouse manager. Ask him for the date code of the newest tires in the quantity, size and series you want. Explain why it is important to you-- that you will be replacing on AGE, not wear. If unwilling to play, look for another dealer.

Assume you have air pressure gauges? What are the readings? Might start by cleaning the contacts on the air pressure sender-- may be some corrosion/resistance that is changing the reading to the alarm.

cac757, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The e-blast went out Wednesday 11/8 9:13 CT. Send me a PM if you would like for me to forward you a copy, or here it is on the FMCA website: https://www.fmca.com/benefits/verizon.html

But, they sure add moisture (a normal byproduct of combustion) to the interior.

Yup, have to see elevation of hose attachment to coach to see if he is trying to defy gravity.

Actually, a "drip loop"/sag in the sewer hose is not a bad idea-- as long as the coach attachment is higher than the highest part of the hose. This prevents sewer gas and/or insects from entering the tank from the sewer outlet.

Actually, Caterpillar did make two different pans, a shallow pan (stamped steel) and a deep one made of ribbed aluminum. To my knowledge, Safari (Magnum chassis) is the only one who used the deep pan. Deep pan capacity is quite a lot more than shallow pans-- 29 qts with filter. Best to confirm oil capacity by calling the Caterpillar RV Hotline with your engine serial number: 877 777-3126. The reason-- Caterpillar DID change their capacity recommendations for some engines! And totally agree, calibrating the engine oil dipstick is an excellent idea, and FREE at an oil change.