wolfe10

Tyler, On propane, how far into the cooling cycle does it get: 1. Igniter clicks and gas valve opens? 2. Flame does not stay lit? 3. Flame stays lit but no cooling after 5-6 hours? Does it cool in shore power/120 VAC? Have you confirmed 12 VDC to the refrigerator PC board? Lights on front of refrigerator lit?

Probably need to ask the turkey. And, not sure how much vacuum it can produce to suck out a restriction.

Probably OK within reason, but air pressure also affects air brake function. So, guess setting the air governor cut-out PSI above top of factory specs would not be my approach.

Yup, we did that drive in our 1993 Foretravel many years ago. No problem at all. With the Allison 6 speed/Caterpillar diesel: second gear, torque converter locked going both up and back down (exhaust brake on). But in a heavy gas coach, the torque converter/transmission will not appreciate that grade. And curve at the bottom means no "running start". If you do take the coach, strongly suggest on that stretch driving the toad separately. Totally agree it IS a beautiful drive.

So true. But with a clear plastic hose "extension", pretty safe to do! And, you can always tell your better half that you NEED that slug of scotch to get the taste out of your mouth.

Be VERY CAREFUL poking up the condensate tube with a coat hanger-- you sure don't want to put a hole in the evaporator.

Simplest answer may be that the condensate drain is plugged. Locate it under the coach and suck on it-- you may need to use another piece of hose as an extension. Do not blow, as that would just but any restriction back into the A/C to "re-clog" next time you use it. Yes, a cracked case could also cause it, as could low freon which would cause colder temperatures and condensation on the hose to the evaporator. But, start with the simple, free one.

Yes some short VERY steep grades. Fine for tow car.

With a residential refrigerator, unlikely.

Battery choices range from Sams/Cosco golf cart batteries all the way to Lifeline AGM's. Price and performance are quite different. One of the big advantages of AGM's is that they can take a charge a lot faster than wet cells due to lower internal resistance. That means lower generator run time and, particularly if you have a multi-stage charger, bulk mode will not overheat them.

Your xantrex pro XM1800 is an inverter (not charger function). So, your CONVERTER is what charges the batteries when any external source of 120 VAC is present (generator or shore power). This will occur irrespective of whether inverter is turned on or off since it is done by a completely different device. What is your battery voltage when plugged in? When unplugged? Said another way, battery charging is by the converter. According to the Xantrex manual, your model inverter has a built-in transfer switch. So, either off or on, when generator or shore power on, the transfer switch in the inverter "passes along" that power. When no external power, only when you turn on the inverter will it power the refrigerator, etc.

Please post exactly what converter, charger or inverter/charger you have. Without that we are all speculating-- which will not do you any good.

Bruce, Does K&N have different filters? In other words, was the filter you tested THE K&N filter, or do they have several types? Link to the one you tested?

Take the very best ones in to match. And, polyurethane bushings are superior to rubber ones.

Roland, There are several designs for end links. Makes no difference if jacks are down or not, just that the coach is level side to side (so there is no pressure on the sway bar. I put jacks down just for more clearance under the coach to work. Obviously, do not go under the coach unless you have room under there if jacks/air bags failed without jack stands.

While I guess a bolt could be used, most use a threaded rod with nuts at both top and bottom. That is why vice grips are one of the tools I take under the coach with me-- to hold the center of the rod so that both nuts can be removed.

Correct PSI for each axle depends on the load IT is carrying-- pretty much unrelated to other axles. Best is to use weigh individual wheel positions and use heavier wheel position on each axle to go to your tire manufacturer's inflation chart to determine correct MINIMUM PSI for all tires on that axle. And, many tag axles are adjustable. Best that each axle carries the same PERCENT OF GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating).

I believe Carl is pointing out that rules for RV's registered as COMMERCIAL VEHICLES (registered to LLC) are different than for those registered to individuals.

Yes, on center bushings, not end link bushings.

The end link bushings wear MANY, MANY times as fast as the center bushings. That doesn't mean don't check them, but they are rarely the failure point.

NO. As long as the two sides are level, there is zero force on the bushings/end links.

Roland, Replacing the bushings is VERY low tech/torque. Get the PN from your chassis maker, get the bushings, and anyone with even a pair of vice grips and crescent wrench can change the bushings.

While I hope the advice you got from Monaco is helpful, I have trouble believing that a fuse (or fuse box) was replaced by RELAYS. BREAKERS (either auto-reset or manual-reset) is more believable. Could there also be a relay involved-- sure, that that is not what would protect the wiring (the job of a fuse or breaker).

Ya, with the dew point above 70 degrees F (easy to get to a dew point above 80 on the Gulf coast) you really don't want to use a compressor without AIR DRYER. Putting WATER into the tire is not recommended. 1. Water can rust steel belts. 2. Water is NOT an "ideal gas", and temperature/PSI curves (remember in high school the Ideal Gas Law) for water are VERY different/worse than for DRY AIR.

Yes, they do have some pull through large sites.