wolfe10

That is a very common OTR truck part. Unless it is truly an emergency, just get a new one installed. The correct procedure (caging the parking brake spring) is critical from a safety standpoint. Not complex, but the power in those components can KILL OR BADLY HURT YOU if you don't know what you are doing.

If atmospheric pressure in the coach is lower than the black tank, when the toilet valve is opened, a large volume of "tank air" enters the coach-- nuff said! If one needs to flush the toilet while on the road: Make sure no coach windows or vents are open. Put dash HVAC to outside air (not recirculate) Put dash HVAC fan to HIGH All these contribute to higher pressure inside the coach than in the tank. Again, nuff said!

While many of the Onan 6500/6300 LP generators WERE designed to run on liquid LP, they run very well on HIGH PRESSURE VAPOR. Yes, that means BEFORE any regulator on the tank. This also materially extends the life of the on-generator regulator, as the long-hydrocarbon contaminants in the liquid are not present in the vapor. This was done with input from a engineer at Marshall Gas and worked fine on our 1993 Foretravel with liquid LP Onan generator. After conversion, it ran for many hundreds of trouble-free hours (and as far as I know continues to run well today-- many years later) after the "conversion" and overhaul of the on-generator regulator. When overhauled, the regulator was clogged with several tablespoons of what looked like a light-viscosity grease (contaminants collected over the years of operating on liquid LP). Yes, if the tank is too small to dissipate the "cold" resulting from the expansion of the gas, this could create a problem in very low ambient temperatures. But, it that occurs, just turn the tank upside down.

Be aware that if a hydraulic pump runs out of fluid, it is very likely to self-destruct!

Could be an ECM, could be a sender. But, I would sure start by disconnecting and cleaning (an electrical contact cleaner) connections at both senders and ECM. Could be something as simple as a loose connection, dirt or water in a connection, etc.

2 stroker, What is the temperature regulated by your engine thermostat (Caterpillar calls them regulators)? What is the coolant temperature that triggers the wax valve to go to "full PSI"/full fan speed? Ideally, there will be a 5 degrees F or so between the two. Said another way you do not want to waste HP turning the fan faster than needed. But once the thermostat is full open AND you see a few degree temperature rise above that, THEN you want fan speed to switch to high (or if variable speed, a highER) speed.

Very good advice. Get factual evidence of exactly how high the water got. Even, get pictures of debris in fences, etc, near where your coach was parked.

I would sure not rule out a hardwired new camera and monitor. Call Tim at: http://www.rvcams.com/ Let him know exactly what system you have. He will be able to tell you if there is a system that can use your existing "back to front" wiring that is already there. Is wireless an option, sure. But if all it takes is an adapter front and back to hard wire it, that is a better solution.

Posting a picture is not difficult: http://community.fmca.com/topic/361-how-to-insert-pictures/

Guys, Please remember, that particularly with mechanical issues/questions, many Forum members choose to get an e-mail update with every post on a thread. The above SIX "no content relevant to the discussion" posts in a row can turn a "Forum search for answers" from an asset to a distraction. Helping us keep the FMCA Forum a valuable tool is important to current members and vital to introduce potential members to the benefits of joining. Thanks for understanding. Moderator

Would appreciate a picture of the improperly installed covers with the 1/4" gap. Am having trouble understanding why that would not be a very easy fix. Perhaps we can offer solutions.

The high limit switch/relay is resettable. Need a strong magnet. Just google "Norcold high limit switch reset". If course, determining why the high limit switch tripped is important to determine if you want to continue with it or replace it. But, operating it out of level CAN trip it!

EXCELLENT. That is what FMCA is all about. BTW, welcome to the FMCA Forum.

While you could chase the small leaks (bottle of spray bubbles), loosing air that slowly is certainly within specs.

Please, let's try to get this one back on topic. Thanks. Moderator

Yup, this "is $360 to $600 a year important to YOU are is it just noise level" is certainly of different levels of importance to different people. While I fall into the "it matters to me" from watching people pull into gas stations one block from where I stop for $.020/gallon more and not even being aware of it/caring, I understand that some have different priorities. NO PROBLEM-- do what is important to YOU.

Mike, You need to have someone safe working around 120 VAC check out the ATS. But first, verify that on generator, everything works in the coach. If so, all that needs to be checked is the adapters, shore power cord, wiring from side of coach to ATS and the ATS itself.

Mike, We need to know what coach you have to give you specific locations for the ATS, BUT most are pretty easy to locate: Follow the 50 amp cord into the coach. It will go directly to the ATS. Generator output "meets" there as well. But, if you are not safe working around 120 VAC, do not open the box. BTW, starting the generator, if everything in the coach works, you have verified that from the ATS "forward", everything is OK.

Actually, two separate issues: Agree with kaypsmith that in the 20 amp house outlet that the hot wire and neutral are on the wrong posts. EASY to check with voltmeter: From narrow straight to round should read 120 VAC and from long straight to round should read 0 VAC. That is the first thing that needs to be verified before plugging in! Next, and separate is if only one leg in the RV is hot there is a problem in your adapter. The 15/20 male to 30 female adapter is not the suspect. The 30 male to 50 female needs to be checked. With it separated from coach/shore power, check it with an ohm meter. In fact, you can check it with the two adapters connected together: The narrow straight on the 15/20 end should be connected to (continuity) to BOTH outer straights on the 50 amp female end. This connection takes place in the 30/50 adapter.

" Make the drive between Lajitas and Presidio (Hwy 170) following the Rio Grande River. " Yes, a very scenic drive. But be aware that there is a short, VERY steep (15% grade). Not all coaches would be happy with it. And certainly would not hurt to disconnect a heavy toad for that short stretch.

Not sure I am clear on exactly what is and is not working. So, if this is incorrect, please correct me: You are plugged into a 15 amp outlet at the house? Or is it a 30 amp outlet? The "house plugs" you do not have power to are some of those in the coach? Do you have an inverter/charger, and are these outlets the ones that do not have power? If so, many inverter/chargers have resettable breakers on them-- may just need resetting. If this is not correct, please tell us exactly what coach, and electrical components you have that are not working.

Michael, You either have a significant problem with the shore power you are plugged into, a problem with an adapter or a problem "upstream" of the ATS since generator is showing OK. SO, have you checked your shore power connection with a voltmeter? Is it a 30 or 50? Coach is 50??

Is this advice for towing on a DOLLY as asked by the OP?? OR, 4 wheels down?

March will be prettier with wild flowers. January can be just fine-- check weather before making the decision. But U.S. 90, being south of I10 is almost always just a little warmer. This is from a post I made several years ago. If going E to W, just read from the bottom: No problem with I 10 all the way, but there is a much more scenic route across Texas. Exit I 10 in Van Horn Texas onto U.S. 90. Take it across to San Antonio where it rejoins I 10. Only 25 miles longer. Excellent two lane road with very, very little traffic. Alpine is a cute small west Texas town. That and Del Rio are best resupply points between Van Horn and San Antonio. Visit Big Bend NP if not in the heat of the summer. Either drive down in the RV, or leave the RV at RV parks in Alpine or Marathon and drive the toad. Visit the (free) Judge Roy Bean center in Langtry. Then Seminole Canyon State Park (electric, water and dump station). Some several thousand year old Indian cave paintings there and free small museum in the park HQ. Some nice hiking trails in the park as well. For fishermen, Lake Amistad is a good stop-- plenty of RV parks as well. Then Del Rio if you want to cross the border. Huge HEB grocery store at corner right downtown on U.S. 90. Plenty of parking, gas and diesel with room to get to pumps. Not a lot to see in Hondo, but during WW II, that is where they trained Army Air Corp navigators/bombardiers. Castroville has a nice regional park in town, the town settled by immigrants from the Alsace Region.

U.S. 90 from San Antonio to Van Horn is just fine. We often take it when headed west.