wolfe10

Thanks for the report. And, welcome to the FMCA Forum.

The alternator B+ lug is the positive "out" from the alternator and generally connects to the center lug on a diode-based isolator or shares a lug with the chassis battery bank positive on a solenoid-based isolator.

Yup, there are marine "idiot-proof" switches made, but not on standard switches and certainly not if the B+ is just disconnected and then engine run.

Do NOT operate the engine with the B+ wire off the alternator. Quite likely, you will blow the diodes in the alternator. In fact on boats with manual switches, that warning is printed right on the switch.

Very likely that the 2000 Safari will have hydraulic, not air brakes, but as Rich said, there will be a switch.

While in the shop, DEFINITELY have the batteries load tested.

Thanks for the update. If you happen to have a picture of it, that would be great.

Rob, Don't know about the 2000 model, but on the 1997 model, there were 12 VDC fuse boxes in the very front (access from above grill). They are labeled.

Do you have the wiring diagram for your coach? If not, get one from your coach manufacturer. Then a good RV tech can troubleshoot it. Also, a good idea to fill in your coach information in your profile so we know what rig you have. Someone else with the same coach may have faced the same issue.

Herman, I believe he is talking about his dash HVAC, not roof A/C.

Bruce, Try some fishing line if you are trying to cut/separate 20 year old mastic. I KNOW, not much fishing line in Arizona.

AFisher, Interesting that a residential/commercial HVAC/plumbing company would be familiar with RV water heaters. That would not have been my first stop.

Tomorrow in the daylight, remove the shroud and check fan mounts, electric area (capacitor leaking) etc. But plastic smell sounds more like fan hitting housing than an electrical issue. Unless you really need it, I would not re-try it until verifying that all is well visually.

RedT, Was this diagnosed by an authorized Allison dealership? If not, a second opinion by one is in order! And, with a 2004, really surprised you are not using Transynd. It is a LOT better fluid. Assume U-joints have been ruled out.

fuserv2017, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, either from your owners manual or from a call to Winnebago, determine what the other "defaults" are for the alarm AND how to troubleshoot them.

Can you get an electrical schematic from Damon-- should make it easy to determine what the fuse is for and trace it for a short or defective part.

I have driven the Alcan three times, starting in the mid 1970's when there was a road sign "next pavement 1,580 miles". I view the decision to "do it on your own" vs caravaning more as a question of whether you are comfortable traveling outside your normal comfort zone on your own or would prefer (and willing to pay for) someone else to do the planning. No rights/wrongs, just different.

Follow the advice you posted. Send a picture of your coach and THEN ask for a reservation. For many years we faced this with our 1993 Foretravel. A quick e-mail with photo got us into 100% of those places we wanted to go. So, in most CG's, the rule REALLY MEANS: "If older than XX, we want to make sure your coach is not a wreck." And, I actually support that rule.

I agree, I really want to keep this discussion open. And, discussion of other financial issues, both past and future are of equal merit. My concern is that with 12 pages of posts on this one issue, that "changing topics" will likely leave out many who DO have input on a new "financially related" topic. That is why I would really suggest (again) that RVillage or other topics have their own thread. Nothing to do with censorship-- everything to do with making sure that anyone with a thought on a very different subject gets the opportunity to express it WITHOUT having to dig into miles of posts to find the "hidden start " for a new topic. Does that make sense???

Anyone who works on medium or OTR truck suspensions can do it.

Clearly she had NO IDEA what you are driving. Probably pictures a school bus conversion. My suggestion is to e-mail the CG a picture of your rig and or call back when someone more knowledgeable is on duty.

Charles, The Safe-T-Plus does two things: Assists with "return to center" after turning a corner. Dampens input from road irregularities and/or a blow out. While a worthwhile addition to many coaches/chassis, it is not the first thing to do when the objective is improving handling. Start with: Weigh coach (all wheel position weighing best) and set tire pressure per tire manufacturer's recommendation, using the heavier wheel position on each axle to determine correct minimum PSI for all tires on that axle. Many of us add 10% to that minimum as a safety factor. Verify that the the front end is in alignment, setting both CASTER and TOE-IN at the high end of spec. When ordering the Safe-T-Plus, they will need to know that CHASSIS you have, rather than what coach. Installation is not difficult, though likely will involve some high torque/large bolts. Adjustment (basically centering it) is merely loosening some nuts and moving the tie-rod attachment point.

dons2346, I would prefer NOT to close the thread. But, will not tolerate personal attacks and particularly on LONG threads (this one already 12 pages) will try to keep focused on the original topic. If that makes me a "dictator", so be it. And, yes sometimes I do question the many hours a day I dedicate to trying to make the FMCA Forum a great resource for both information and discussions.

Guys, PLEASE, if you want to open a discussion on other issues, start a new thread. This one is already 12 pages long. And, yes, I just deleted an indepth post in RVillage (and only RVillage-- no mention of allowing/not allowing towables).

I would like to see this thread continue. BUT, I am concerned about the adversarial tone it is developing. This not what FMCA or the FMCA Forum is about. Please, lets try to stick with the subject of this thread AND follow rules of common courtesy. Thanks. Moderator