wolfe10

Correct. You will need to verify that the outlet you want to use IS one powered by the Xantrex inverter/charger. And, if not, it would likely only require a little re-wiring. Let us know if you need assistance with advice on this.

To go a little further in troubleshooting: Yes, could be a weak circuit breaker. Replace it with the same low-amp new one. If problem continues, may have a bare spot in the positive wire to the refrigerator causing a high draw. If so, either locate the problem area or just run a new wire.

I would NOT use 3-1 oil as a bearing (actually, more likely bushings than bearing in the fan motor). A better choice is a light-viscosity oil such as sewing machine oil. I would give that one try, and if noise continues/returns, would replace the fan motor.

When flushing the toilet while underway, if you have a reversible fan, turn it on HIGH putting air INTO the coach. Same for taking dash HVAC off recirculate and putting fan to high. All to insure that pressure inside the coach is greater than that in the tank!

ISPJS, Perhaps I am not understanding. Are you consideringt a bigger rear SWAY BAR/ANTI-SWAY BAR? Track bars really don't come in different "strengths". They serve very different purposes: Sway bar controls sway Track bar controls the side to side "push" of the long rear overhand. It locks the rear axle to the frame rail so that you can have up/down motion over bumps, but prevents side to side movement of coach to axle.

Believe me, I am equally frustrated with the one time posters. But, showing it, particularly to first time posters is a sure fire way to insure that they ARE one time posters. Any hint of "unwelcome" or "you are a newbie and we are not" can only serve to run them off permanently. BTW, this happens on virtually all forums. And, I have to admit, I am guilty. I have joined appliance forums to get specific information on repair procedures and joined a MB Sprinter forum when we were researching driving a motorhome to South America. I never followed up with either, other than to thank posters for their information after the problem with the dishwasher was solved/we changed directions on the South America trip. If posts were made by others subsequent to that, I have not been back to the sites to see.

Guys, While it IS frustrating for a first time poster to not continue to respond to posts made on their behalf, I am not sure that pointing this out lends itself to the welcoming that will lead to their doing just that-- becoming contributing members of the Forum. So, perhaps it would be beneficial to allow first time posters a little more latitude. Thanks.

Bill, It is OK. We are all sworn to secrecy-- Dave will not find out from any of us. But, yes, many ECM systems work on 5 VDC. Doesn't take a lot of resistance in a connection to alter the reading. Also, you might recall in my diesel maintenance presentation to the Diesel RV Club and at FMCA Conventions is a reminder to clean and tighten the ECM ground wire every year-- same reason. That simple issue (lack of good ground) has stopped more than a few coaches with electronic engines.

For both space savings and cleanliness, Dianne uses vacuum bags to pack off-season clothes. Keeps them in good shape in either the basement, under sofa or closet floor.

No, no. Bill AKA MacGyver.

Excellent work, Bill.

Motorhome03, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Couple of questions: Have you verified that you do need 120 PSI based on your actual weights? 12 VDC and powerful compressors are difficult to find. Will you be airing up when not on shore power or generator? The 120 VAC units are a lot more powerful and more common (read lower price). And, if you don't need the full 120 PSI, have you considered using your on-board air system-- with the dryer, it is a lot better quality air than available from a portable compressor.

Same here.

rarsenault, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What exactly is it doing/failing to do?

That is a very common OTR truck part. Unless it is truly an emergency, just get a new one installed. The correct procedure (caging the parking brake spring) is critical from a safety standpoint. Not complex, but the power in those components can KILL OR BADLY HURT YOU if you don't know what you are doing.

If atmospheric pressure in the coach is lower than the black tank, when the toilet valve is opened, a large volume of "tank air" enters the coach-- nuff said! If one needs to flush the toilet while on the road: Make sure no coach windows or vents are open. Put dash HVAC to outside air (not recirculate) Put dash HVAC fan to HIGH All these contribute to higher pressure inside the coach than in the tank. Again, nuff said!

While many of the Onan 6500/6300 LP generators WERE designed to run on liquid LP, they run very well on HIGH PRESSURE VAPOR. Yes, that means BEFORE any regulator on the tank. This also materially extends the life of the on-generator regulator, as the long-hydrocarbon contaminants in the liquid are not present in the vapor. This was done with input from a engineer at Marshall Gas and worked fine on our 1993 Foretravel with liquid LP Onan generator. After conversion, it ran for many hundreds of trouble-free hours (and as far as I know continues to run well today-- many years later) after the "conversion" and overhaul of the on-generator regulator. When overhauled, the regulator was clogged with several tablespoons of what looked like a light-viscosity grease (contaminants collected over the years of operating on liquid LP). Yes, if the tank is too small to dissipate the "cold" resulting from the expansion of the gas, this could create a problem in very low ambient temperatures. But, it that occurs, just turn the tank upside down.

Be aware that if a hydraulic pump runs out of fluid, it is very likely to self-destruct!

Could be an ECM, could be a sender. But, I would sure start by disconnecting and cleaning (an electrical contact cleaner) connections at both senders and ECM. Could be something as simple as a loose connection, dirt or water in a connection, etc.

2 stroker, What is the temperature regulated by your engine thermostat (Caterpillar calls them regulators)? What is the coolant temperature that triggers the wax valve to go to "full PSI"/full fan speed? Ideally, there will be a 5 degrees F or so between the two. Said another way you do not want to waste HP turning the fan faster than needed. But once the thermostat is full open AND you see a few degree temperature rise above that, THEN you want fan speed to switch to high (or if variable speed, a highER) speed.

Very good advice. Get factual evidence of exactly how high the water got. Even, get pictures of debris in fences, etc, near where your coach was parked.

I would sure not rule out a hardwired new camera and monitor. Call Tim at: http://www.rvcams.com/ Let him know exactly what system you have. He will be able to tell you if there is a system that can use your existing "back to front" wiring that is already there. Is wireless an option, sure. But if all it takes is an adapter front and back to hard wire it, that is a better solution.

Posting a picture is not difficult: http://community.fmca.com/topic/361-how-to-insert-pictures/

Guys, Please remember, that particularly with mechanical issues/questions, many Forum members choose to get an e-mail update with every post on a thread. The above SIX "no content relevant to the discussion" posts in a row can turn a "Forum search for answers" from an asset to a distraction. Helping us keep the FMCA Forum a valuable tool is important to current members and vital to introduce potential members to the benefits of joining. Thanks for understanding. Moderator

Would appreciate a picture of the improperly installed covers with the 1/4" gap. Am having trouble understanding why that would not be a very easy fix. Perhaps we can offer solutions.