wolfe10

Rob, Don't know about the 2000 model, but on the 1997 model, there were 12 VDC fuse boxes in the very front (access from above grill). They are labeled.

Do you have the wiring diagram for your coach? If not, get one from your coach manufacturer. Then a good RV tech can troubleshoot it. Also, a good idea to fill in your coach information in your profile so we know what rig you have. Someone else with the same coach may have faced the same issue.

Herman, I believe he is talking about his dash HVAC, not roof A/C.

Bruce, Try some fishing line if you are trying to cut/separate 20 year old mastic. I KNOW, not much fishing line in Arizona.

AFisher, Interesting that a residential/commercial HVAC/plumbing company would be familiar with RV water heaters. That would not have been my first stop.

Tomorrow in the daylight, remove the shroud and check fan mounts, electric area (capacitor leaking) etc. But plastic smell sounds more like fan hitting housing than an electrical issue. Unless you really need it, I would not re-try it until verifying that all is well visually.

RedT, Was this diagnosed by an authorized Allison dealership? If not, a second opinion by one is in order! And, with a 2004, really surprised you are not using Transynd. It is a LOT better fluid. Assume U-joints have been ruled out.

fuserv2017, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, either from your owners manual or from a call to Winnebago, determine what the other "defaults" are for the alarm AND how to troubleshoot them.

Can you get an electrical schematic from Damon-- should make it easy to determine what the fuse is for and trace it for a short or defective part.

I have driven the Alcan three times, starting in the mid 1970's when there was a road sign "next pavement 1,580 miles". I view the decision to "do it on your own" vs caravaning more as a question of whether you are comfortable traveling outside your normal comfort zone on your own or would prefer (and willing to pay for) someone else to do the planning. No rights/wrongs, just different.

Follow the advice you posted. Send a picture of your coach and THEN ask for a reservation. For many years we faced this with our 1993 Foretravel. A quick e-mail with photo got us into 100% of those places we wanted to go. So, in most CG's, the rule REALLY MEANS: "If older than XX, we want to make sure your coach is not a wreck." And, I actually support that rule.

I agree, I really want to keep this discussion open. And, discussion of other financial issues, both past and future are of equal merit. My concern is that with 12 pages of posts on this one issue, that "changing topics" will likely leave out many who DO have input on a new "financially related" topic. That is why I would really suggest (again) that RVillage or other topics have their own thread. Nothing to do with censorship-- everything to do with making sure that anyone with a thought on a very different subject gets the opportunity to express it WITHOUT having to dig into miles of posts to find the "hidden start " for a new topic. Does that make sense???

Anyone who works on medium or OTR truck suspensions can do it.

Clearly she had NO IDEA what you are driving. Probably pictures a school bus conversion. My suggestion is to e-mail the CG a picture of your rig and or call back when someone more knowledgeable is on duty.

Charles, The Safe-T-Plus does two things: Assists with "return to center" after turning a corner. Dampens input from road irregularities and/or a blow out. While a worthwhile addition to many coaches/chassis, it is not the first thing to do when the objective is improving handling. Start with: Weigh coach (all wheel position weighing best) and set tire pressure per tire manufacturer's recommendation, using the heavier wheel position on each axle to determine correct minimum PSI for all tires on that axle. Many of us add 10% to that minimum as a safety factor. Verify that the the front end is in alignment, setting both CASTER and TOE-IN at the high end of spec. When ordering the Safe-T-Plus, they will need to know that CHASSIS you have, rather than what coach. Installation is not difficult, though likely will involve some high torque/large bolts. Adjustment (basically centering it) is merely loosening some nuts and moving the tie-rod attachment point.

dons2346, I would prefer NOT to close the thread. But, will not tolerate personal attacks and particularly on LONG threads (this one already 12 pages) will try to keep focused on the original topic. If that makes me a "dictator", so be it. And, yes sometimes I do question the many hours a day I dedicate to trying to make the FMCA Forum a great resource for both information and discussions.

Guys, PLEASE, if you want to open a discussion on other issues, start a new thread. This one is already 12 pages long. And, yes, I just deleted an indepth post in RVillage (and only RVillage-- no mention of allowing/not allowing towables).

I would like to see this thread continue. BUT, I am concerned about the adversarial tone it is developing. This not what FMCA or the FMCA Forum is about. Please, lets try to stick with the subject of this thread AND follow rules of common courtesy. Thanks. Moderator

I only have experience with VDO gauges, but, yes at least they can be recalibrated. Others may be as well. But, deviating too far from OE RPM (Revolutions Per Mile) also affects affective rear axle ratios.

If there is a brand name, just google it. But, any RV shop and many auto parts houses will have equivalents.

235/80R22.5 is a rare size-- basically Michelin. BUT, when considering other options, there are a number of "tire comparison" websites. Here is one: https://tiresize.com/comparison/ As far as speedometer change goes, the important issue is REVOLUTIONS PER MILE. And most tire comparisons will show that. Load range (carrying capacity) is one of the critical factors to keep in mind. And, if your actual coach weight is close to that of your current tire's capacity, strongly consider upgrading tire size/carrying capacity. As an example, plug in 245/75R22.5 and you will see that at 60 MPH, the speedometer is off by only 1/2 MPH.

This one is so "custom" in terms of "really designed" for a handicapped person that I thought it warranted mention. Said another way, I have never seen one that thoughtfully set up.

True, IF, repeat IF the refrigerator is plugged into an inverter-supplied outlet. Most are not. But agree with Bruce-- you need to VERIFY: Turn inverter on. Disconnect from shore power/generator off Is there power to the outlet the refrigerator and/or ice maker is plugged into? If so, you will need to manually verify that neither refrigerator nor ice maker (if so equipped) are running on 120 VAC.

No, we normally do not allow any coach to be advertised on the FMCA Forum. But, this is a unique enough situation that I feel it warrants mention-- and may keep a handicapped FMCA member on the road a few more years. BTW, I have no first hand knowledge of the coach, its owner or the lot advertising it: https://www.rvt.com/Foretravel-Motorcoach-Foretravel-U295-1999-Mesa-AZ-ID7551865-UX127532

James, Yes, we need this information to give you sage advice: Size and number of "house" batteries and condition (age) Amps or watts of your CPAP machine. Also, what other electrical needs will you have (both 12 and 120 volt) AND, for how long (single over night or longer term dry camping)?