RVerOnTheMove

I just can't allow the occasional idiot to worry me too much. They are everywhere. The guy behind the counter at (your favorite fast food place) who can't speak English, the person as the register who has no idea how to give change when you hand them $20.16 for a $12.66 total, the Government worker who just shrugs their shoulders, .......... (add your story here, there are a million of them). I wake up in the morning and am allowed to get a fresh start on my life every single day. While I am not always successful, I like to think that yesterday is gone and tomorrow is not here yet so I will make the very best of today.

If you use a tow dolly to tow your car you would want to buy a dolly with brakes and that would be all you would need.

If FMCA could just get some kind of a contractual deal with the Concorde Lifeline batteries, that would be great for everyone involved!

I certainly would not call you a snob. Nobody should. However, there are very few people who might disagree with your own self-assessment. I own a class A and I do everything in my power to avoid an RV park that restricts their occupancy to Class A only. I feel much the same way about rallies and other events. I enjoy diversity and look forward to talking to others about their experiences and them asking me about mine. I belong to FMCA and I belong to Good Sam. While each organization has similar goals (we're all just out here "camping") they both also offer unique option to their members.

Sounds more like Dead man's 50 amp. Please! Do not try this at home.

A fresh tire is a fresh tire. There's no reason to buy an old tire. 3 months is likely a very good guideline.

You can "limp" as far as you like at 5 MPH. If you go a few hundred yards, I don't care what speed you are traveling, your second tire is still fine. You certainly can decide for yourself but no "inspection" after that amount of travel will give you any usable information. I "drove" something close to 50 miles on 1 tire. The tires had 80,000 miles on them anyway so I had no concerns about the end result as I was going to replace them all anyway.

Nope! Make some time to stop in Glenwood Springs, CO and enjoy the Hot Springs. Stay at the "No Name" exit.

The weighing that you have gotten is an OK start just to ensure that your coach is not overloaded, but it's really not the information you need to know if everything is OK. You need to get each tire location weighed separately. That's the R and L front tire (axle) weight, the R and L drive axle weight and the R and L tag axle weight. With this information you can go to the Michelin website and get the proper setting for your tires based upon the heaviest weight on either side. It will also give you the information necessary to see if you need to move some of your stored equipment from front to back or side to side. If you find a good RV weighing service such as RVSEF, they will do the weighing, explain the results and tell you exactly what the inflation should be at each axle. Despite one side being heavier than the other, you will always run the same pressure on the tires on the same axle.

Since the current inverter is working well there should be no reason to replace it. The claims that a MSW inverter is "tough" on electronics has no real foundation. I have used the Heart 2000 (458) MSW inverter in my coach for over 10 years without a single inverter related incident. That includes my household refrigerator, old analog TV's, newer LCD HD TV's and now the current crop of LED LCD TV's. Convection/Microwave oven, DirecTV hardware, Hughes satellite internet modems, computers, coffee makers, Linksys and WiFi Ranger routers, household lamps, etc. The only thing that I can prove does not work well with a MSW inverter is a 120V clock (the clock on the coffee maker as an example). With all of that understood, if this unit dies and I MUST replace the inverter I absolutely would replace it with a pure sine wave but I see no reason to replace a perfectly good unit.

While the 14.3V will not hurt your AGM's, I think the 13.8V float is too high. I would settle for the 2nd option as the 13.3V float is right in range and the batteries will still charge just fine at 13.9. You might do as you are now while parked for an extended time but I would use the second option anytime that you are going to occupy the coach. Otherwise, the current inverter should handle all of your needs.

I love my "nearly 30 year old" Prevost! The math on an 88 (like mine) would actually be 24 and the 86 26, but who's counting. Hope I never have to buy another coach!

I believe SkyMed does just that and they are a highly respected organization.

If I they had such a tire, you are right. It's more likely that a road service is not going to have a Michelin 12R22.5 so I will limp to somewhere even if it's only a campground where I can wait while a tire can be found. If you carry a spare (mounted or not) this would be less of a problem.

If I am in the middle of nowhere I am going to drive the coach to the middle of somewhere on the one tire. If that means I have to replace both tires when I get there, that's OK with me. Y(tire)MMV!

I am hoping that what tireman is saying is Nitrogen in your tires is a scam. Just fill your tires with "dry" air and your results will be just about as good as filling your tires with Nitrogen. If that's not what he is saying, it is what he should be saying. I have filled my tires with "air" for the last 15 years and I have never had any kind of a failure that could be attributed to over/under inflation, hot/cold tires or excess moisture. Sometimes, things just go wrong and something things go great forever. Nitrogen is not going to change any of those statistics.

Have you verified that it is not shutting down due to low oil level or oil pressure?

That makes no good sense. It's your board and you can do as you please, of course, but I should be able to delete my own post even if you only allow me to do so within the first hour/day/week (fill in the appropriate time period). We all make mistakes and we should be able to correct those without leaving posts behind that include nothing but blank spaces. I don't really want to have to beg some stranger to read and delete a post which never should have been made in the first place. Maybe you like to be able to chuckle at someone else's momentary lapse of judgement and revel in it before you grant their wish, but I don't see that as a reasonable way to run a forum when most every other forum I participate in DOES allow this option. I know I am spitting in the wind so it's really not necessary to reply as it appears that what is, is and what will be, will be. No worries, be happy!

Kiley Mold Company 4200 Anderson State Rd. Fayetteville, Ohio 45118 Phone: 513.875.3223 Fax: 513.875.3391

I have replaced many bulbs with LED, but you will never be able to justify doing this on price or even common sense. They are WAY too expensive so the only valid reason is for some substantial heat or energy savings. I would never replace a bulb such as the patio light with a $12 bulb when I can buy a regular one for $2. It would take at least 12 years (replace the bulb every other year) to just break even.

No, nothing new.

I don't think anyone gives a fixed life span on their tires. I know that my Michelin's were over 10 years old when I replaced them and then only due to wear. They were just starting to show some signs of cracking as well but not enough that I was concerned. Michelin recommends that tires be replaced at 10 years assuming there are no issues with the tires that would require an earlier replacement.

If all of your other tires are also 7 years old then I would suggest that you replace them all. Michelin says that their normal life-span is 10 years but most all of the other manufacturers say 7 years. I don't think you will do better with one or the other so take a look at the best pricing and be sure to see how the FMCA Michelin pricing impacts that decision.

Why in the World cannot I delete a post? Put a time limit on it if you like so I can't kill a thread a month from now but make some kind of a provision for incorrect posts other than deleting all of the letters and putting in a period, space or *.

Depending upon where you really are in the area, the 80-15 route would be shorter. If you are down closer to Provo then 70 straight in would be shorter. Either route is just fine, you will just have a long climb followed by long downgrade at Vail pass. It's a nice drive, you just take your time. If you are just making a "run" without any sightseeing I would go 80-15. If you have time to stop in Glenwood Springs (Hot Springs and beautiful camping at the "No Name" exit) take the 70 route as there are many more things along that route that would give the possibilities of stopping again and again with things to see and do. Arches, Canyonland and Moab come to mind along with some of the most scenic driving just to make it even better.