wayne77590

Check the connections for cold solder joints, if they wires are soldered to the speaker. Or, the solder on the push on terminal. It should be shiny, not dull looking. If you checked the push on terminal and it felt tight, how about the wire going to the back of the push on terminal. It could have been improperly attached (bad solder) or badly crimped. Wiggle it, see what happens. Also check the back of the radio connections. I once had a vehicle that was producing whining and crackling sounds. Pulled the alternator apart and found four diodes with one leg of one diode not soldered at the factory. Any loose electrical wires can be an antenna transmitting a frequence that the speaker(s) are picking up. Check all electrical connections - everywhere. As **** stated, check the speaker cone. It should not be dented in. If it is then try putting a vacuum on it and suck the dent out. A vacuum cleaner with flow control at the nozzle and a modified piece of cardboard shaped in the form of a cone and as wide at the far end as the speaker should do for pulling the dent out. That's a start. Edited: if the noise is from an electrical source in the MH or engine, an L or PI filter consisting of a small transformer and a couple capacitors can be put on the input power line to the radio to filter the noise out. Shady-ol-rack used to sell the kits.

If the ice cream is hard, the freezer is working. If the milk is cold, the refrigerator is working. Regarding the outside, well, I'm never happy. However, thanks for the link and I'm going to look into it. I presently have on remote mounted under the hood but it is next to the generator. It also gets "sun" hot in that location, but most of the time when traveling it is withing a few degrees. When we stop we have another gauge with remote. It is put up outside under the slide in a little cubby hole next ot the outside of the wall of the slide. it is out of the sun and does a good job. Yes, it is on the checklist for when we depart or the slide when brought in "may" damage it. So far so good. I would like to have the 3 sensor one though.

Jim, Yep, I think you have it narrowed down to signal loss. One of the things to check for is to see if the booster is providing power to the antenna. I believe you can disconnect at the antenna and measure for approximately 5v between the shield and the center pin. Be extremely careful not to short the two when probing them. If there is 5 volts, reconnect - after shutting the power off or you possible short the system again, then turn it back on, then it is back to the selector box itself. Check all the connectors on the back of the seletor box (or amplifier if you only have the one with 3 rf connectors somewhere in the closet, and the rf on the back of the TV. I'd do this while still parked in the stick house driveway. You should at least be sble to pick up WBZ (they are still there, right?) If it still fails I would think it is in the amplifier circuitry and a new box is in order. If you are close to the house and have an outside antenna, and the S&B is picking up a good signal, you could run the cable from the house antenna directly to the back of the television. If the signal is there it most definitely is something in the box. It could even be that the switches in the box are not behaving properly. You are correct that even rabbit ears should pick up a few stations, especially WBZ. The rabbit ears should be hooked directly to the TV. If you are getting a signal with the rabbit ears, then switch the input to the booster, and the output of the booster to the TV and see if a channel that was a little fuzzy gets better. If it does than most likely the booster is working. Back to the drawing board and check all coax connections for shorts. Disconnect the coax from the input on the box, and the input to the antenna. Using an alligator clip, string a wire between the center conductor of the coax at the box to close by the connector at the antenna. Using an Ohm meter check for continuity between the center conductor at each end. Then check for a short (continuity) between the center conductor and the shield (caseing of the coax) It should be open and not measure any resistance. If everything checks out okay, then it is not that coax, but could be the coax from the box to the TV. In many cases, us amateurs replace connectors on coaxial cables and in some cases the shield (ground) gets pinched or a strand ends up against the center conductor. If you find a cable that is bad, cut the connector off and check for a short again without the end on the cable. If it is still shorted, guess what, it was most likely the other end, ha ha! Cut that end off and check for a short again. If it is still shorted the cable may have been pinched severely somewhere along the line. If it tests alright, put new connectors on and check for shorts again. That's a start. Let us know what you find. Wayne (KE5QG)

According to the 2011 Towing Guide, obtained from the main page of the FMCA web site, Members, Towing section. No! As stated, check your owner's manual.

X2 on MiFi and AT&T. We have been using that system for the past 5 years and it has worked great.

I'm assuming that you are in Hudson, MA and that is only 42 miles from Boston. You should be getting a lot of channels. I would suggest tightening all coaxial connectors on all pieces of equipment that has a connector. Those little devils have a tendency to work themselves loose just from natural vibrations, let alone riding in a rolling earthquake. I am also assuming that you have a digital televisions, that is one that gets channel 2.1, 4.1, etc., and not just channel 2 and 4, etc. if you do not have a digital TV then you are getting only the analog signals and that can be limited. Happy trails.

I have the Magneshades for the front and side windows. They are all that they claim to be. Very easy to put up and easier to take down. Putting them up takes me about 30 seconds or so. Taking them down about half that time. However, it takes me longer to roll them up and put them in the carrier that they come with. You will also find Roger and Clare great peoplel to work with for your needs. Happy trails.

No difference except in your comfort. If you are going to leave the refrigerator on you want to follow the Mfg.' s recommendation for the 3 degrees side to side and 6 degres front to rear for the refrigerator. If you park it and do not dump, over a period of time they will leak down to having been dumped, at least that has been my experience.

I take my 2008 Winnebago Destination to Freightliner Houston for annual service and any repairs. So far, so good. Their hourly rate is a little steep. The RV person is Matt. Another consideration would be to check with Dues Camping in Dickinson, TX, about 6 miles South of you. Also check with Bennies Automotive in Texas City. Benny is an owner of a MH. I live in TC. Happy trails.

Try Del Mar at Camp Pendleton at $50 a night. Only $45 a night for the back row.

Darn! I had forgotten about this thread. Okay, so here goes. As reported, prices are increasing at military facilities, and sequestering has forced some more facilites on installations to close whenin the past they were open 6 or 7 days a week. What does this affect. It affects the worker who is supporting a family by trying to earn an honest wage for 40 hours of work. It is going to hurt them. As for recreational parks, well it probably will not hurt the retiree pocket book so much, or the upper ranks, but what about those young folks that would like to get out and spend a few relaxing hours with their familes. Why make it difficult on them. I believe there are a few miliatry recreational facilities that base their rates on rank structure where the lower enlisted ranks pay a lower price. Personally to me this is okay, and I do not have any problem with it. Maybe something like that could be looked at by all facilities. Hey, 3 nights a $1 more in savings is almost a gallon of milk.

I was not aware that you could put a base plate on a leased vehicle. Is this Nation wide, or just where you live?

Ya'll have me worried with my new 2013 Lincoln MKX. This thread is like batteries on the MKX and EDGE, it went dead.

I have read this thread from the beginning. I'm hoping my new purchased 2013 MKX will not be a problem. I have the electronic keyless system. I have read, (besides the shifting and starting for 5 minutes before and every fuel stop) to press the electronic keyless button once to place the system in "accessory" mode, shift into neutral an away we go. Question: After 20 minutes the electronic system shuts down. Where would a drain on the batteries be coming from? Is there any fuse that could be pulled to alleviate this problem? I'm going to look into a "toad charge."

Wow! No takers on towing a Lincoln MKX? Joereg3, I bit the bullet yesterday and purchased a 2013 Lincoln MKX. Darn thing has more new technology than Carter's Little Pills. It is towable 4 down. Don't worry about not having a key. The push button start acts as a key. It does not have a steering lock. The car has to be put in neutral to tow and it has to be in the accessory position to put it in neutral. That is one push on the touch button without the foot on the brake and it is in accessory position. It does state to start it and run it for 5 minutes before towing each day and again at each fuel stop. Unfortunately they do not give a time frame for "between fuel stops" and some coaches will run 7 or more hours on a tank of fuel and others stop when the gauge get to half full (optimist) in 4 hours or less. I would like to know if the speedometer advances when towing. I have a 100,000 mile service plan and if it advances when towing it will make a difference. Come on MKX owners - what's your take?

I was chuckling when I read the OP, as it sure sounded like Texas. It was back in '86 when I went for a test for a Class B CDL. At that time, even though I was driving a vehicle under 26,000 pounds the trailer was over 10,000 pounds (remember I said AT THAT TIME) and it was 3 inspectors and one supervisor later that I explained the manual to them and finally they agreed a Class B was needed. So don't pick on PA as I have read from many other RV owners that the state of confusion they are from is the same as PA.

What jack system does that have?

Re-opeing an old thread, I know. I'm in the process of purchasing a 2011 Lincoln MKX. I'm interested in hearing ONLY from MKX users that are towing that brand/model automobile, from 2010 through 2013. The 2011 model would even be a better response. I realize there are baseplate considerations, and one example is DemCo's baseplate not being compatible with front "Radar" systems. According to my service representative at Lincoln, that is the front sensing system for when you are parking your vehicle, similar to the rear sensing system. Any other information on that would be apprcciated. I'm going to go with the BluOx base plate and Blue Ox towbar so there should be no problem, that I know of, with that system. I'll also have my AFO re-installed in the MKX for braking. What towing package do you tow your MKX with? There have been a few posts on battery and battery charging systems. What do you do? Is just starting it at fuel stops enough? Considering that fuel stops can be anywhere from 4 to 8 or more hours depending on the fuel tank capacity and driving habits. (My kidneys typically don't let me drive for more than 3-4 hours. Yes I have lasted that long. DW, well that's another story.) Any information, or pointing me in the right direction, please.

I believe Cummins is 15,000 miles or 1 year, whichever occurs first. Then there is the chassis maintenance schedule based on miles and the manufacture web site has the schedule. example: Freightliner chassis. I typically plan on 1000-1500 dollars each year if Freightliner does all the work. If you are able to do the oil/filter changes yourself and keep the receipts you can save money. Personally I prefer to have the experts do it because they can pick up little things that I may not notice.

Try this: in your search engine, google, type in Galveston, TX. A map will appear. Click on the map. Then in the Google search pane "of the map" type in RV Parks. The map will be populated with RV Parks. You can zoom in to see if any meet your criteria. Move the mape on down the coast and just hit the little blue search icon in the search pane and the map will be repopulated with RV parks. There are many, many RV parks along the Gulf Coast of Texas. Just in Galveston alone there are 5 parks, and 3 before you get into Galveston. Corpus Christi area has close to a dozen, and Mustang Island has two "upscale" parks. When you see one that looks interesting go to rvparkreviews.com and check on the rv park. To many to list. Happy trails.

I have the portable PT50C and I have never found it to be a problem in that I leave the coach cord plugged into it all the time. I just pull the PT50C out of the electrical bay and plug it in to the pedestal. For peace of mind security I have a short piece of chain that goes around the pedestal and I lock it with a padlock. It will only keep the honest people honest, but in 4 years it has worked fine. I like the portability. I originally purchased it when I had a 5th wheel, and when we changed to the motor home it came with us and was no problem in switching since it is so portable. In any case, the Progressive Industries hardwire or portable is one of the better investments I have made. It has saved me about 5 times in the past years when there were faults on the circuit. It will not switch on if there is a fault, and there is a delay of over 200 seconds before it will switch back on if a fault is detected and cleared, like a surge. Happy trails.

Do expect it to be hot, hot, and hotter during August.

Isn't it amazing how greaty holy minds work alike??

Rules and regulations change. Maybe not much, but sometimes the wording changes that can have an effect on the meaning of the sentence. So it is my opinion that the best manual to read is the one "On-line." You can find it here: Texas Drivers License Manual in PDF format. Now, if you really want an education, get the CDL book also, and after you have taken your test read the CDL book. There is information in there that may benefit you. It's interesting to say the least. Please, please don't read into the statement that an RV is exempt from a CDL. Yes it is but depending on the weight of the vehicle a straight Class, A, B, or C may be needed. Happy trails.

After sending them "both," did you receive an email confirming reservation?