wayne77590

We have had both, and some others. Some of the new 5'ers have auto leveling systems but for those that don't leveling is a chore. You have to carry blocks, wood, ramps, whatever you like to level. You determine where you need the higher pieces, place them on the ground on the outside of the tires, move the 5'er back or forward, place the levelers where the tires are going to be, then move the 5'er on to the levelers. In the MH, push a button and you are level. Hooking and unhooking a 5'er is more cumbersome than unhooking a TOAD. In the 5'er, get out level side to side, put the front jacks down, lower the tail gate, pull the king pin rod, get back in the vehicle and pull forward. Back at the 5'er now level front to back. In the MH, pull a few pins to unhook the TOAD. Push a button to level. Reverse the process to hook up. In the MH, unhook the water, electric and sewer - if they were ever hooked up, push a few buttons and drive away (with the TOAD hooked up) Of course, with a 5'er this is all done in whatever weather is available. In the MH you can start the generator 15 minutes before you arrive and have the AC running during your set up and if the weather is inclement you don't have to go out and do anything until the weather clears. In a MH there is dead space between the front seats and the living area, even when you turn the chairs around for entertainment the dead space is still from the back of the chair to the windshield. I don't mind, but just something to think about. The 5'er uses all of the space. For traveling we like the MH. For living long periods of times at campgrounds we would like to have the 5'er. As for pariking a truck, we had a King Ranch, Crew Cab, Long Bed, Dually with 4 wheel drive. If a big car can park in a spot, so could I but it took a few more turns of the steering wheel. With the MH you take the TOAD to do the shopping. The maintenance costs on a MH are higher than the maintenance costs on a 5'er, even considering the vehicle that pulls the 5'er. For 90% of the time I'm happy to have the MH, but there are some times I would like to have the 5'er back, and the truck.

I avoid that region when we travel to New England. I use I-81 and I-84. Much lighter traffic. And driving in Houston I don't mind the traffic, just a nicer ride on 81 and 84.

I believe also that the newer models still have to have the step turned off or the trickle charge will not maintain the battery. I have an older model Winnebago and turning the step off removed the problem I was having with battery drain. Also I have to leave the battery disconnect switches in the on position when plugged in at storage or the batteries will not charge. Good info on the camera.

No problem in trying to find answers before buying or doing things. None at all.

RJ I'd be careful regarding smaller tires on the front. the Mfg indicated 255/80R22.5 and I suspect that is the smallest tire for the load they anticipated. Putting a smaller tire on could be overloading the tire. Since there is no four corner weighing available, just get the front axle weight. At least with that you will have the total weight of the axle, still not knowing if one side is heavier than the other. However, with the entire weight you will have a better working knowledge on tire size. If a smaller tire is under the 1/2 axle weight it would not be a wise move. Stick with the 255 and inflate it to the max 110 PSI until you can weigh the corners.

Hey, if it works, use it. Glad you found a solution.

How many clothes pins would it take to protect all the buttons on the side dash? I'm sure there are other's besides the front windscreen and E brake on many MH's. I don't have, and don't miss, any of those fancy buttons on the left side, just the E-brake, Exahust brake, mirror adjust and shift pad. I just worry about the E-brake when first parked and for a few days. As the air tanks deplete it doesn't matter if the e-brake button is released. No air to release the brakes. Jack, Let us know how you proceed with a "fix."

For the brake, I used a cut piece of 1" pvc to the lenght of the shaft on the yellow brake release. I cut a slot down the middle and it just snaps over the brake shaft. It may be tha you could get a piece of PVC long enough that when sliced, the moon shape of the PVC would cover all the buttons. A little inginuity with velcro could keep it in place, or if the moon shape was wide enough it would stay in place by itself. Just thinking out loud. p.s.., rain gutters cut to specirication.

Wow! So many different items that can go wrong. I have a 2008 Winnebago Destination 39W. All the above. Also, if you have a separate galley tank like I do, the bathroom sink and kitchen sink drain into that one tank. Kind of dumb, but that is the way mine is. Galley tank will fill quickly. Also, the drain hose for the kitchen sink runs to the bedroom and then to the galley tank under the King bed. The hose is held in place by a clamp and it is possible that this has come loose and the hose is loose. If so you may see water dripping under the coach. They anchored my hose to the bed slide pedestal. Not a wise thing as my pedastal came loose and tore the hose from the tank. I have since done the modification to the pedestal and move the anchor to the floor. Just a thought.

I think there is a misunderstanding. It is not suggested to back up the MH when a TOAD is hooked up. Instead it is suggest to back the TOAD up to engage the tow bar locking system while the MH stays stationary. And about unhooking: Never force the locking levers to dissengage the tow bar. Typically one will be loose and if it is, disconnect it. Then for the one that is still locked, just turn the wheel in one direction or the other for a full turn and check bars again, and 99% of the time it will loosen one of the locked bars. The same applies if both are to tight to pull the pin. Rotate in one direction and then try the pins again. One should be loose.

As Jim stated. Back the TOAD up slowly and one bar will lock for sure. Then, according to Blue Ox Adventa manual, turn the wheel in the direction of the arm that did not lock and pull the MH forward. I do one other thing first. If one arm does not lock I turn the wheel in the opposit direction of the unlocked bar and back up again. Most times that locks the other arm. if really problematic I turn the wheel in the direciton of the unlocked arm and pull the MH ahead. So far, so good. Did the same thing when I owned a DEMCO tow bar.

A tire that gains 1/2 inch of rubber all around will have 1 inch of rubber as additional height. With 1/2" on the road side, and 1/2" on the top. Clearances are a big concern for me.

The word "exempt" is very misleading. A person in Texas may be exempt from obtaining a CDL if the vehicle is used for personal use. A Form CDL-2 is required only if the vehicle is a commercial vehicle used for personal use. Example: A motorhome that is used by a business to sell tools out of and one member of the family uses it for recreational purposes only. They would need the Form CDL-2 only because that is a commercial vehicle being used for recreational purposes. In any case they would need the appropriate Class A, B or C license and not a CDL license. Now, I wonder how this is all explained when a person is stopped for whatever reason, has a commercial recerational vehcile and only a Class A or B license. Hmmm! Does the word "exempt" appear on his license? Here is a direct quote from the CDL-2 Form: "I will operate a commercial motor vehicle that exceeds 26,000 lbs GVWR and requires a Class A or B license that is exempted by the Texas Commercial Driver License Act. The Commercial vehicle that I will operate is defined in the following information. Check the appropriate box(es): ( ) A recreational vehicle that is driven for personal use: or" That is one of four 6 boxes on the CDLp-2 form. I bolded the part that states "I will operate a commercial vehicle." So a person can operate a commercial recreational vehcile if it is for personal recreational use and not commercial use. The only time that form is needed is if the RV is a commercial vehcile. So confusing. Must have been drawn up by lawyers. (Hmmm! My son is a lawyer.... Nah, I'm sure he didn't have anything to do with it.)

There have been several remedies for that problem over the years, including beach balls placed between the topper and the roof of the slide. Having the springs tightened will also work but one must remember that there is supposed to be play in the topper to keep it from ripping. The method that I used when we were in 45 mph winds and the toppers were thumping and billowing was to go and purchase a 4" wide strapping material. I cut the 50 foot length to extend over the ends of the slides by about 3 or 4 feet. I folded the ends into an overlapping triangle and put a grommet in the ends. I then purchased some screw in ground stakes that had springs on them. A rope was placed through the grommet and tied. The other end of the rope was put through the spring and tied so that it could be adjusted. Don't remember the knot I used. This worked very well. Also remember that you do have to use a wide strap. Just putting a rope over it will cut through the awning. As an example, fold a piece of paper, but a thread through the fold. anchor one end of the paper and pull the thread. it will cut through the paper like a razor. I know carry two sets of this contraption for the next time I have to use it. Storage is small and light. p.s., My other alternative in 52 mph winds was to bring the slide in.

I have May inspection and August registration. If I'm on the road I register the vehicle on-line and have the sticker sent to the address of my choice. You can do this, but after you receive the sticker remember to go back on-line and change the address back to your home of record or you will not get further notifications. I did this two years ago when in CA for re-registration. Worked fine. I'm not sure if May will be within the 90 day window but since it expires the end of May I would think so. This is going to be interesting to follow, to say the least. At present, you can register your vehicle 90 days before expiration and receive a sticker with the following year expiration two months before the present expiration. Example: Expires 08/14. Sticker can be received for 08/15 as early as 90 days before 08/14. Put it on the windshield and you are ready to go. The new sticker expiration will be 08/15. If they would prorate the sticker month by month, one could plan on having the inspection and registration expire at a time frame they would be back in the state. Like you, Xplorer, we are typically back in Texas for the fall months and could get everything taken care of. It's going to get interesting.

xplorer, it's your tax dollars at work! on.vacation, The law, when it goes into effect in 2015, says that there will be one sticker. That will be the registration sticker, but in order to obtain the registration sticker the tax office will verify with the database or written inspection papers that an inspections was done. Then the registration sticker will be issued. Inspection will have to be within 90 days prior to registration expiration. That's the way I read what I posted above. I have a diesel pusher and right now the inspection is cheap as there are no emission checks so I'll keep both my inspection and registration in the same month. Texas is not the only state that is doing this. Several have done it already and some will be doing it.

This is regarding Texas Law - not any other state. Recently there have been posts on different forums regarding a 90 day inspection/registration that is coming about. I was able to find a "Consolodated Inspection and Registration System Study" released in November 29, 2012, where a bill was passed to conduct a study regarding feasibility and best practices for using an electronic system to consolidate the inspection and registration of motor vehicles in Texas. Today I called the local TxDMV Registration office and they do not know a thing about it. I then called the district office in Houston, and got the same information, and a number to TxDMV Headquarters. The CSA at TxDM Headquarters was very helpful. Here is a quote from the TxDMV web site. This is burried in the pages: "HB 2305 9/1/2013; 3/1/2014; 3/1/2015 Single Registration/Inspection Sticker. • Eliminates inspection sticker. • Tax Assessor-Collector’s office will verify inspection via TxDPS database or with printed inspection certificate prior to issuance of registration. • The state's portion of the inspection fee will be collected at time of registration. • Vehicle owner must have inspection within 90 days prior to registration expiration. • Vehicles sold by dealer must be inspected in the 180 days prior to sale of the vehicle. • Administrative Rules must be adopted by 3/1/14. • Implementation by 3/1/15." You can find this at This TxDMV Link and cllicking on ATTACHMENT. I'm posting to eliminate any future confusion that may exist. It was not an easy task to track this down. (Government, sheesh!)

It would be very hard to isolate it to a specific wire, but each of the wires connected to the dash and other devices are harnesses that snap into place. There should be a clip of some type to hold that harness in place. If the "Old Craftsman" that assembled that harness system, or if the coach had been in for other dash repairs it may be that the harness was not put back properly. Reach up and push on the connectors and see what happens JMHO

I once had some strange things going on with the dash. Turned out that a service technician did not put the harness back in correctly. Reach up under the dash and find all connectors (one at a time of course) and press to make sure they are seated. If any are loose they could give you the false alarm you are hearing. Hey , just an opinion and no money involved.

Wow! I think $600 is way to much for that short of run. I provided the wire and 50amp outside electrical box and had it done with about 30-40 feet from the box, (up the wall, through the attic, down the wall and to the outside) for less than $300. Find another licensed electrician and get another quote. I really think you can do better. If this is a long term thing, or a regular visit thing, it would be worth it to have the outside 50 amp service. I have also used 120v 20 amp before I had the 50 amp put in. With dual AC's on the roof, only one at a time could be run. We found out real quick that if you run a vacuum cleaner at the same time you'll trip the 20 amp breaker. With the MH and basement air, we have the EMS and that regulates what is running. We have used that for a short time on 120v 20 amp with success, and again, nothing else could be turned on at the same time. Unless it is a real old house, most of the newer ones have 20 amp circuit breakers.

Hi Mark, I am using the Air Force One breaking system and a diode seperating the power from the coach braking system and the original lights. So far I have not had any battery drain issues. From what I understand, after 10 minutes in the accessory position the system goes dormant. I activating the brakes would cause the system to "wake-up." I don't think so. I have the keyless system. After pressing the start/stop button, I push it again and the system goes into accessory mode. Prior to performing that I turn off all accessories, including the 7" display via the settings. When I stop and disconnect the display automatically comes on when I start the engine. Typically I drive only 250 miles at a time. I'll usually stop one time during that time but I do not go back to start the MKX. The manual states a time limit or fuel stop but I am not on the road that long so I ignore that part. I have had no problems with the battery.

Mark, this is directly from the 2013 Ford Taurus manual. I have a 2013 Lincoln MKX and it reads similar excepte I put my keyless ignition in the accessories position. "Vehicles Equipped with a 3.5L Engine Note: Put your climate control system in recirculated air mode to prevent exhaust fumes from entering your vehicle. See the Climate Control chapter. Follow these guidelines if you have a need for recreational towing, such as towing your vehicle behind a motorhome or truck. We designed these guidelines to prevent damage to your vehicle after it is hooked-up to the recreational vehicle or tow dolly. You can tow your front-wheel drive vehicle with all four wheels on the ground or with the front wheels off the ground by using a tow dolly. If you are using a tow dolly, follow the instructions specified by the equipment provider. If you are towing with all four wheels on the ground, see the following instructions. You can tow your all-wheel drive vehicle with all four wheels on the ground or with all four wheels off the ground using a vehicle transport trailer. Do not tow your all-wheel drive vehicle with the front wheels off the ground (by using a tow dolly) and the rear wheels on the ground. This causes damage to your all-wheel drive system. If you are using a vehicle transport trailer, follow the instructions specified by the equipment provider. If you are towing with all four wheels on the ground, see the following instructions. If you tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground: • Tow only in the forward direction. • Release the parking brake. • Place the transmission in position N. • Do not exceed 65 mph (105 km/h). • Start the engine and allow it to run for five minutes at the beginning of each day and every six hours thereafter. With the engine running and your foot on the brake, shift into position D and then into position R before shifting back into position N." Doesn't say a darn thing about leaving it running.

Totally different system here, but some considerations. Some systems require that the battery disconnect switches be left on in order for the trickle charger to perform it's task. Also, some systems requrire the steps be turned off. When left on there is an electric current limiter that constantly provides some current to the steps and when left on it is more than the trickle charger can handle. Just some thoughts.

I have an AFO. I used it in the 2007 Saturn, and had it transferred to the 2013 Lincoln MKX. It is attached to the MH air system. If you don't want it done that way there is a model that has it' own air canister and pump. Call SMI for details. They have changed since I purchased mine in 2008.

Guess he found them somewhere, eh?