wayne77590

Here is where you can get them: Smart Solutions, Inc. PO Box 568 Itasca, IL 60143 630 775-1517 You'll be talking to George. I think i paid around $15.

Look into a "Harmony" remote. They come in different versions for the number of units you want to operate. They are programmable over the interent with a USB cable to the computer. One button operation. Check their web site for compatibility with Jensen. Otherwise, looke at the "Universal Remotes" at local stores, get the model number and then get the manual off the Internet. It will give the TV codes, and other codes it is capable of operating. Some can be as cheap as $10-$20, and some of the Harmony can go up to a couple hundred dollars.

JT, I leave the Progressive Industries Surge Protector on the end of mine, so, when I'm ready I unplug it and carry that end to the bay. I did this before the PI and it reduces the drag accross the grass/dirt, etc and in my case "feels" easier. To even reduce drag more, once the plug end is carried to the MH, one could go back to where it loops and pull it to the MH. It just seems that when it is all close to the MH there is no drag and it is easier to handle. The Reels are nice ideas also Happy trails.

Thank you for your service.

I'm towing a 2013 Lincoln MKX. We have only towed it a couple times since purchasing it and there were no problems. We went with the Blue Ox base plate and tow bar. We drove it 3000 miles without towing it on a separate trip. DW says she doesn't like it because it doesn't make milk shakes. Does everything else though.

I had the riser, but at the same time I ordered a higher "throne." Installed both and after first use with DW's feet dangling she said "Remove it, please." The 17 inch throne was high enough. I don't see any reason why you could not add a hardener. Give Thetford a call, they may even have something already developed.

If you are under 26,000 pounds check this out Under 26000 pounds I don't know why it is worded that way. What happens if it is over? I don't know. I believe that MI allows double towing and an "R" endoresment is needed.

It dropped to 32 last two evening, but here is the forecast. Picture didin't load: Anyhow, the next 5 days will be in the upper 60's.

One hour ago, Jan 6, 2014, it was 33 degrees F outside. Summer, please hurry! Picture will not upload so: 7th 42 low 46 high 8th 57 low 62 high 9th 59 low 68 high 10th 59 ow 69 high 11th 54 low 67 high

Don't buy a lottery ticket, or then again maybe your luck will change - go for it.

Thrushi beat me to it. The best smartphone is the phone that does what YOU want it to do, not what someone else wants it to do. You have to decide if you want all the bells and whistles, or just to answer a call and receive a voice mail. That decision is really up to you. Do your research and try and figure what you want it to do and what features you will not miss. Remember, almost all smartphones now-a-days require a data plan and that adds up the $$$.

Hi Jaime, Many different approaches and all seem to work. Here's one more. I have a back flush, don't know if a 2002 has one or not. I dump every time we move, even if it is 1/3 full or less. On very rare occasions do I travel with "matter" in my tanks. Before I pull the handle to dump I turn on the backflush water. it only takes me a few seconds to pull the handle after turning on the water. I have a clear elbow coming from the tank so I can watch what is coming out. After the tank has drained the backflush water will start running almost clear. When it dose, I close the valve and using my watch I'll time the backflush into the tank for 1 minute. (2 minutes if water pressure is real low.) I do not use a regulator for the backflush unless I have been warned by the CG that the pressure is extremely high. After the time I allocated I pull the handle again. I might do this a couple times, watching the clear elbow. At one point during the dump with the handle pulled I'll ask DW to fill the bowl with water up to the brim and push the foot pedal. this puts about 3-4 gallons or more of water rushing down the tube and hitting any "pile-up." I ask her to do this twice, all the while backflushing, and watching the clear plastic for teltale signs of anything other than clear water. You'll be surprised at the water turning less than clear. After the dump, I close the valve to the black tank and time 1 minute of water input. Depending on the pressure, some times i may go a little longer on the time. I then put in two capfuls of Calgon liquid water softener. You would be surprised how easy it is to keep the black tank clean with the Calgon sloshing around on the road. I also use one packet of deodorant, just for the heck of it. We have never had a clog Just another perspective.

Thanks for the info.

Tom, A 2004 could have Kwikee, Power Gear, or one of the older providers back then. My questions: What does the controller look like that you actuate the slide with? Does the controller have a small hole near the button(s)? Are they electric or hydraulic? Is there a 3/4" or so shaft extension on the motor? Someone with a 2004 should be around this forum and be able to tell you what system it is, don't ya think?

Could be the Belton Lake park. Here is a list of Texas COE Parks

I have had very good luck in phone calls to them. They recommended an installer in the Houston area that I used and was well pleased with. Give them a call.

Oh oh! I'm going to get in trouble because I don't normally disagree with Brett. However. For each 10 degrees of temperature change there will be a 2% increase/decrease in pressure. I beleive the misunderstanding is when one takes 2% of 35 psi it comes out to 0.7 psi and rounded up would be 1 psi. However if you take 2% of 110 psi, it comes out to 2.2 psi. For every 1000 feet of elevation change there will be a 0.48 psi increase/decrease in temperature. If you look at the inflation tables and take those measurements into consideration you would set your pressure between the low and high pressure that would give you the most comfortable ride and have the "fudge" factor. I'm not going to go look up the tables, but let us say for example that your weight is 9500 pounds on the heaviest tire and the pressure to abosorb that minimum weigh is 85 psi. You could set your tire pressure to 90 or 95 psi and have a fudge factor of 5 to 10 psi. Consider that at 2% of 90 psi is 1.8 psi so if the temperature dropped 10 degrees you would be at 90-1.8 or 88.2 still within the minimum pressure for the load. If the temperature were to drop 20 degrees you would still be at 85.6 and withing load limits. Normally if you are decreasing in altitude you would be increasing in temperature so there is also a fudge in those factors. Happy trails. Editied: I did a search in the Goodyear tire chart guide and this is what it states: "The effects of temperature and atmospheric pressure. Air temperature and atmospheric pressure effect tire inflation pressure. If the outside temperature increases 10 degrees F, tire inflation pressure increases approximately 2%. Conversely, when the outside temperature drops 10 F, the tire inflation pressure lowers approximately 2%. Tire inflation pressure increases approximately .48 psi for every 1,000 feet of altitude due to changes in atmospheric pressure. On the other hand, tire inflation pressure will decrease approximately .48 psi for every 1,000-foot decrease in altitude. In other words, if there are changes in temperature or altitude during your trip, it’s important to check your tire inflation more frequently." ======== Or use the fudge factor and you don't have to keep adjusting the tire pressures. p.s., you did not say the make of your tires. What are they? Here is a good link to anything you want to know about tires: Tireman's Blog Roger Marble is an engineer that has worked with tire companies for many years.

I'd go with a new one. You don't know if the vehicle that had the baseplate was in a wreck and that could cause some stress fractures that are not visible to the naked eye. The only way I would buy a used one is from someone that I know and trusted. Call BlueOX or send them an email. They will give you the locations near you that sell their product, and who install. Those that sell may not necessarily install. A google search for BlueOx in your area should also give you some hints. Happy trails.

My 2008 was not on recall but there was a known air leak in an improperly made air gauges on the XC. The air gauge was replaced free of charge and has never leaked again. That might have been a recall since a complete failure with leakage could cause a loss of brakes. Didn't happen. There was another recall on the suspension, something like ADL blah, blah. The weld was bad on some models. It required going in and having the weld inspected. If it was good, nothing. if it was bad the entire part had to be replaced. As reported by the NHTSA's recall process, this was issued November 2008 on the SAF Holland ADL Transverse Beam Assembly and was first reported by SAF Holland on April 4, 2008. Seems to be some contadiction on the web sites. I guess technically it was an investigation and not a "recall."

Hi Ray, My 2 cents worth. For 5 years I had a Demco and used a hammer and screw driver to punch the pin out. After reading some information, and now I have a Blue Ox tow bar, i found out that just turning the steering wheel in one direction or the other will 99% of the time take the pressure off the hard to release pin. I still carry the hammer and screw driver for the just in case times.

My wife has declared the name of our MH as "Citrus." (Guess which citrus.) My sons call it the SKI mobile (SKI=Spending Kids Inheritance.)

To the original poster, the manual states: ----------------- To tow your vehicle from the front with all four wheels on the ground: 1. Position and attach the vehicle to tow it behind the recreational vehicle. 2. Turn the ignition key to ACC/ACCESSORY. 3. Shift the transmission to NEUTRAL (N). 4. Turn fog lamps and all accessories off. 5. Remove the IGN SW fuse from the Instrument Panel Fuse Block. See Instrument Panel Fuse Block on page 5-97 --------------- If that process does not work to unlock the steering wheel, seek help from a GM dealer. They should be able to assist you.

Towed the 2013 Lincoln MKX for the first time last week for 240 miles. I don't think there is any difference in the procedure so here is what I did. Hooked up, of course. After putting the keyless start into the accessory position, I turned off the radio and the AC then the display. I shifted into neutral in the proper sequence as indicted in the manual. Exited the car and towed. Four hours later there was no problem with the battery. I typically only travel 250 or so miles a day and we usually stop in a rest area or truck stop for lunch. On this trip we travelled straight through with no stops. When I do stop for lunch in the future I'll start the car and let it run for 5 minutes as the book indicates, then repeat my procedure for towing. If it ever acts differently than this first time, I'll post the information.

DW considers anything that is not a five star hotel/motel boondocking. I think it was a good title Tom. My MH is not configured to run by itself overnight unless the generator is running. Do they allow the slides to be extended? That is also a must in my configuration.

I have the 2013 Lincoln MKX. It is supposed to be 99% identical to the Edge. I have the keyless entry/start also. I towed it for the very first time Thursday the 10/3/2013. Book says, start for 5 minutes before towing. Run selector shift to R, then to D, then to N Place key in accessory position. This can be the confusing thing. You have to have the ignition on to be able to take it out of park. So, after runing through the transmission sequence and it is in N, push the start/stop button until it is off, then push one time to place in accessory position. Also somewhere in the manual I read that after 10 minutes in accessory position the system will shut off. I had not problem starting the car after 240 miles of towing. However, we pulled into our site and I leveled, extended slides, hooked up elect so DW could start on the inside then went to the car to disconnect. First I got in the car and started it, then I went from neutral to park and exited to disconnect. One tow bar arm came loose real easy and the other had to much tension. I went back to the car to put it in neutral and push on the front to disconnect BUT the lever would not come out of park. Nothing I did would make it come out of park. To make this short, and after many calls to Ford dealer and Ford Roadside Assistance they sent a tow truck. I had time to read the manual and one thing caught my eye on fuses. Fuse #59 was the brake on/off fuse. Hmmm! When the tow truck arrived and after some conversation we pulled #59 and it was a 10 amp and it was blown. I had a spare, plugged it in, and everything worked fine with the shift coming out of park. I have a theory. I believe that brake lights work even with the system off. The lighting system that was used when the baseplate was installed was the "diode" kit. So now when hooked up and the brake pedal in the TOAD is activated, not only the braking system lights come on, but the power through the umbilical cord is also applied. We were in some small town heavy stop and go traffic and I think the current through both system was to much. My theory. Anyone?