wildebill308

I don't know if this will help but most of the throttle body injections work much the same. http://www.gmcmidwestclassics.org/Web%20pages/Tuning%20the%20TBI.pdf http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Jayrabe/GMCMH-EFI http://gmcmotorhome.info/list.html Bill

Hear are a couple of links to more to see and do. http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/guidedtours.htm We did this on the last trip to the canyon. They have entertainers in the car. Also did the guided bus tour of the south rim. The guide showed us things you will never see otherwise. http://www.thetrain.com/ http://www.thetrain.com/grand-canyon/grand-canyon-tours/ You can drive your car but there is a FREE shuttle service. “A free shuttle bus system operates in the Grand Canyon Village area. Make your visit easier and save fuel by parking your car and using the shuttle to get around.” Flagstaff has many things to see and do and it is only a short way from the canyon. Things like The Petrified forest, Painted Desert, http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g60971-Activities-Flagstaff_Arizona.html Don’t forget Albuquerque NM and old town. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g60933-Activities-Albuquerque_New_Mexico.html Santa Fe is only about 70 miles north. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g60958-Activities-Santa_Fe_New_Mexico.html I am working this from the wrong direction I know but Amarillo TX http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g30165-Activities-Amarillo_Texas.html We stayed hear easy in /out Fun service was we didn’t have to unhook the car to go eat. There was Free limo service to the Big Tex Steak house. http://bigtexan.com/ http://www.overnitervpark.com/ You didn’t say what route you will take from Branson but the most direct is 40. You should be able to make OK city in one day don’t have much experience staying there. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g51560-Activities-Oklahoma_City_Oklahoma.html Most of the places I have listed are a day apart I don’t like to drive to far in a day 350 miles is long enough. We stayed in Williams and took the train up to the canyon fun trip. Lots to see in a short time. Just me but I would get west as fast as I could there is weeks of things to do and see around the canyon. Bill PS: TAKE THE TOAD

Yes Gas buddy is your friend. I will use Pilot if I am in an area I don’t know. You can spend a lot of time trying to find that fuel that is $.05 cheaper and then have a hard time trying to get in and out. When home I use Kroger. There is one near where I keep the RV and it has diesel on the outside pumps so no problem getting in and out. The best part is you can use your fuel points. Best I have ever done was $0.70 off the pump price. The only bad is you only get 35 gal at the discount. Bill

Stan, Thank you for your service and welcome to the forum. Bill

If you can't find one that looks like a fairly easy one to make. Bill

I would get the gasket from Cat. Look at and make sure all your clamps on the intake and exhaust are tight. Bill

Welcome to the forum. One thing to be aware that you change the whole filter and housing-- you can’t open the housing to just change the filter inside. That is at least on 95% of the diesel coaches. Bill

My 2003 Bounder came back as BMW parts. You just have to love Google. Bill

Good link. Thanks. Bill

When I was looking I did some research on line and found several coaches in my price range that were worth looking at in person when I got to Motor home specialties in Alvarado I said I was looking for a used coach with payments under $1000.00 a mounth. They basically said they didn’t have one I could afford. They claimed not to have the ones on their web site. I decided they were right. Bill

Go to one of the big tire web sites like Michelin. They have charts that give the rolling diameter of each tier size. Compare the two different sizes and calculate the percentage of difference. Then you can calculate your real mileage and speed. Bill

I see what you are saying. Why would you lift the coach off the ground to change the tire without airing up the suspension to give you more clearance to get the tire out of the wheel well? I don’t think I could get mine out with the bags deflated. Bill

The main problem with using the onboard compressor is it doesn’t start till the pressure drops to about 80-85 pounds. If you are trying to put more than that in-- say trying to get to 105 you will be letting air out of the tire if the tank pressure is lower. The way to get around this is to go pump the brakes till the pressure drops and the compressor kicks in. When your gage gets to more than what is in the tire you can add air. This works till the pressure again drops below what is in the tire and you have to repeat the process. I did see a nifty little tool on You Tube to make this easier. They made one with a gage to show the pressure in the line and when it got to low there is a valve to release air until the compressor kicks in. This saves running back and forth to check the line pressure and to bleed it down to start the compressor. I am looking for parts to build one for myself. I did make a fitting to add air to the system with out starting the engine, like they do when towing. As it was mentioned there are several kinds of air fittings. The coach takes an “automotive style” fitting. Most air chucks you run into are “industrial type” These are the ones on your air compressor and air tools. I built an adapter to go from auto to industrial. I also safety wired a spare air fitting to the air line just incase I ever need one and the tow truck doesn’t have one. I have looked at several coaches and they had one in that location. Bill

Welcome to the forum. Ok where did you find the gage? Bill

I would rent a smaller gas unit to get some experience. The difference when you move up is not that big. Lots of video on U-tube on driving a motor home. I would recommend driving to some place 1-2 hours from your home base. This way you can get the feel of driving it and you won’t arrive at the campgrounds so tired. You still have to set up when you arrive. This can be stress full the first time. Better not to be exhausted by your first time driving all day before you start getting every thing hooked up. By the way I think 300 miles is a long day. Bill

Sorry about your windshield but lowering the coach would have nothing to do with twisting the body. It will twist the same with the bags inflated. I have repositioned to a different area or even a different space because the spot I was in was to uneven. Bill

One thing you can do before pulling in the slides is lower the jacks then use the jacks to create a slop so the water will drain off. You should re level before you bring the slides in. I have done this after a big rain. I learned about this the same way you did ran the slides in during a heavy rain and when I went to pull out I had a waterfall in the back. This process only takes a minute and saves talking bad while soaking up the water with a towel. Bill

I used plastic mayonnaise jar. I cut a hole in the top big enough for the hose to go through the cap then put a clamp on the hose so it couldn’t slide off. I drilled a bunch of #30 holes in the upper part of the jar so it could vent with out restriction. I have seen the bottle attached with wire through the vent holes. So far it has drastically reduced the oily coating on the back of the coach, the toad and I am sure the CAC and radiator. Bill

What year? I am verrey skeptical of the coverage that is not original manufactures warranties. I looked a several when I bought my couch. There were so many disclaimers in them that I just self-insured. Always get a roadside assist plan like Coach Net for towing and tiers etc. Bill

JohnJill, You didn’t tell us what year your RV is. One thing you can do on older units is make a catch bottle for the “slober tube” This is the crank case blow by vent on the side of your engine. Most are to short and the oily vapors will get sucked into the CAC and radiator causing dust and dirt to stick and accumulate faster. Some have just extended the tube. I use a catch bottle because it will get on the toad otherwise. Bill

Gealfa, Welcome to the forum. The biggest problem is Motor homes keep getting bigger and heavier. You will hear of people getting better mileage but they may have a lighter coach. You didn’t say how many miles you have on your coach. Your mileage may increase after you get a little mileage on it. There are only so many things you can do to improve mileage. You probably already know most of them. Here are a couple of things you can look at: Others have added a controller for the transmission so it stays in OD longer and doesn’t hunt for gears on rolling hills or slight inclines. Add an intake like the one from Banks possibly an exhaust up grade to. I would run Mobil1 0-20 or 5-20 synthetic oil. The 0-20 could give up to 2% improvement in mileage. You will get more suggestions I am sure. Bill

We have used this park too and it is a great overnight stop for us. We plan on staying there whenever we travel in that direction. I like the convenience and the cheap price. Don’t forget to ask for your FMCA discount. Bill

Well it seems to work for you. Bill

Just makes me proud that I have a coach that is under 26001 pounds and my tow is under 10,000 pounds. Bill

Yes that sounds like a bad resistor. Bill