kaypsmith

. I'm thinking that the electric element probably fried. Disconnect the 120 volt leads to the element, of course make sure electricity if off. Use an ohm meter to touch the two leads to the connection where the two electric leads were connected, check for resistance, should read pretty high resistance, if little to no resistance, the element probably needs replacing. Of course, set the volt ohm meter to read AC voltage with the hot water heater turned on to electric, and check for voltage to these connections before testing for resistance. Sorry Rich, I did not read your last post, I had started the reply and was called away for a honey do.

If the CG pedestal has a 15 or 20 amp gfci device, the one with the reset button on the recepicle, the fact that the neutral is shared after the gfi device, will cause erratic behavior of that device. If not gfi, go for it.

DD690 is correct about the device because of the unbalanced load on the neutral will cause the gfci to trip. The extension cord should be fine though.

If your coach is a 50 amp coach, it will work pretty well. One side of the adapter directs 30 amps to one side of your 50 amp, the other side will direct 15 amps to the other side. It is not the same as plugging to a 50 amp supply because the 50 amp supply is 50 amps to both sides of a 240 volt circuit for 100 amps total. Your AC units should be wired so that one is on one leg "L1", and the other is on the other leg "L2". While using this setup you will still need to limit high current appliances, but you will be able to use more of them at the same time. Remember that the max current is still the number on the campground breakers, so if one trips, then you are trying to use too much on that leg, so you must lower the usage on that side. Please do not try to manufacture one of these devices yourself without a complete understanding of how it works. Good luck and hope this is helpful. One thing that I forgot to mention is that you can use a heavy duty extension cord from the 15 amp plug in and use higher amp devices, such as hair dryers, microwaves, or other devices that just plug into the wall. Maybe a little unsightly but none the less useful.

Have learned since the first reply, there is also antibark collar that uses a scented spray that the dogs do not like that is more recommended over the audible ones.

Take a look at this one. http://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Commercial-Digital-Inflator-Straight/dp/B017S3MLHG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51zuDiKnIWL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL320_SR256%2C320_&refRID=1GV1W1P07MSD845YAKDS

The reversing valve may be failing.

A friend had a Southwind several years ago that did exactly the same way, when he finally replaced the hoses, the problem ceased.

We have four Yorkies, they keep each other busy enough that they don't have time to whine. But the first one who lived with only Mama and I, used to whine even when we went to bed, we finally learned that if we would put our dirty clothes in a short hamper, then showed him that was where he was supposed to stay when we were not present, he grew accustomed to the routine and continued doing so till his death. We have one now that has a cuddly dog toy that he sleeps with, he actually puts this toy to bed at night including covering it up with an old towel that we supply. Also if you look up antibark devices on the internet, there is available devices that detect barking and loud whining, not shock collars but audible devices that actually produce a sub-sonic sound, humans cannot hear it but the dog can is very annoying to the dogs ears. This device can be helpful in deterring the whine and barks. If she is not crate trained yet, that is a must, be sure to find something to put in with her that makes her feel comfortable, lightly worn clothing as mentioned above would my first trial. Good luck with your Yorkie, they are loving pets.

I made a light assembly with a "CAR IN TOW SIGN" between the lights, used a lightweight bicycle carrier that mounts into the receiver on the toad, also have an amber emergency flasher on top of the toad. I don't know about all states, but nothing can protrude more than 48 inches past the last lighting assemblies in Alabama. With the rig described above, nothing protrudes past the light assembly.

If on a level driveway, one could use their leveling jacks, or pads, to accomplish the effect, "LOL".

After 34 years, 18 of which, AAA had billboards posted in both directions that it is a speed trap, Waldo Florida, has been shut down. http://www.cbsnews.com/news/florida-town-infamous-for-speed-traps-disbanding-police-force/

I have AAA RVplus, same company as the auto AAA, have had two experiences in a year, both were handled very professionally and quick, unlike Good Sam.

https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/pubs/dl648/dl648pt2 Here is the Ca DMV requirements.

How old is the coax, and is it RG6, or RG59, also are you using the connection switch that probably was installed when your coach was built. Since the tv in the rear works fine, then the wireing/coax or switch may wave a bad connection. For a test, I would put a splitter at the back tv, and run a known good coax across the floor to the front unit to eliminate the above possibilities.

I tried the Wash Wax and it does work well for me, but it is not what I used earlier, the stuff that I used earlier was harder to achieve a beautiful finish. So I will continue using the Wash Wax product, because of ease of using.

Yes when going down the road, digital TV's on antennas, especially on directional antennas the signal will tend to go in and out. Digital TV's use an error correction code, software built into the tv that helps correct for bitt loss, when the signal has been lost too long, and the buffer has depleted, you will experience outages that appear in different ways than an old analog set. A signal booster can help sometimes, and there are stronger and weaker signal boosters available, but as Bill pointed out I would start with the antenna.

There is also a checkvalve built into the waterpump, not too elaborate, just a rubber diaphragm, with too high water pressure some bypassing can also go on there. When I plumb a coach, I use a commercial grade checkvalve between the pump outlet and the house plumbing to help preserve the one built into the pump. Also please note that a small grain of sand or any other debris can lodge in this backflow device causing it to FAIL.

Since you are using it on electric, not gas, if you can get access to the control board, there may be a relay that is faulty, or maybe just a poor 12 volt connection to the control board that is not holding the relay and causing multiple tries. The control board is 12 volt DC since it serves as gas or electric, even a poor ground to the control board can cause problems. And as Rich says, the mixing valve maybe the culprit.

Is the clicking sound a single click or multiple clicks each time it does it?

Well Rich, there is a third, 91 is probably an 8V92, unless it has been changed out. The C50 and 60 series were the 4 stroke models that started being installed in the later 93 vehicles. If it is an 8V92, it is a two stroker, 475 to 500 HP depending on the computer settings. It is a very strong and beefy engine. 8 cylinder models in hilly terrain will behave very well, and are capable of using Jacob braking, you will need to determine whether yours has this or not. Depending on how you drive it will determine what fuel mileage you can achieve. I run a 6V92, 335 HP, and average 6 to 7.8 with a gross of 39,000#, 8 will actually do a little better under some conditions. Unfortunately, mechanics are getting harder to find due to the dying breed of this beast, but Detroit still can service, and parts are reasonably easy to obtain. If it is a C series, it will be a 4 stroker, and mechanics are available almost anywhere, as it is a widely used engine in freight tractors. The two stroke models will require more oil replacement as most are known leakers for reasons that I wont divulge here unless asked. Good luck with your purchase, and if the engine was misrepresented for the sale, many states have some recourse that you might wont to look into. But you did ask if they were any good, it is a million mile motor if properly maintained, mine currently 262000 on the second rebuild. Also if it is a two stroke, you will need to use single weight oil, as the engine is not designed for multi-viscosity, ie. 15W40, many mechanics will tell you OK, and for running purposes, it is, but the leaking really becomes excessive if used.

I did not see your age group, but as one grows older, it does seem to affect different people in many ways. I'm not referring necessarily to old age, but more about maturity. Our thought processes tend to change our habits, as well as our habits. The things we have learned our rv's pretty much remain the same although newer trchnology is always evolving. No very few of us weigh all four corners every time we go out, but that is something we need to know, so once you have done so, there is no need to do it very often, unless of course you are a rock collector like Lucy. LOL. But if you do a remodel or your RV, it might be time to do it again. If you are uncomfortable backing into a space, it is probably time to take a refresher course in how to handle these circumstances. But I certainly hope that if you enjoy the lifestyle, as my family has, this will not become a handicap. Incidently, welcome to the forum, let us know if we can answer any questions. Kay

George, as Herman said thanks for letting us know what the resolution was, it is helpful to us as a means to help others.

In Alabama, an rv is the only vehicle that does not require a tag to be renewed in the same month that it is due in, as long as it is not being driven on the public roads. For instance, all are due in October/November, but if you do not drive it until March, you can go to the tag office in March before driving it, no penalty is assessed, and the tag will be prorated for the rest of the year. Of course you will be required to sign an affidavit that it has not been driven on any public road during this period. The same is true for the liability portion of your insurance. Be sure that you are driving at any time without either on the public roads, the penalty will be the same if caught driving without. Most are unaware of the law concerning this but you can confirm it at the courthouse, or visit the Alabama DMV. gov website. The technical name for this tag type is , "apportioned".

Assuming that everything is square and plumb, if this is not true, almost any fix will be hard to achieve. The slide rails should be square to the floor edge, then each of the three slide rails should be perfectly parallel with each other, this point is critical on both the slide, and the floor of the coach. To achieve this two people will need to work together in checking the distances from rail one to rail two, then from rail one to rail three. These distances are critical! Also what grade is the bolts that are being used? While replacing the bolts, the ones that will be carrying the heaviest load could be upgraded to grade 8 if they are not already that. The heaviest load will be the ones that are the furthermost ones inside the coach. Don't know your particular unit, but this is a fix that can be applied to almost any slide rail assembly. Good luck with your repair, especially if you are doing it yourself.