kaypsmith

Any vacuum hose disconnected surely is a leak, good point Carl. If it is disconnected, reconnect, cross fingers and try it out. If not tech support is certainly a good call.

Looking at the pictures, the one showing the fuses, if this is the 12 volt block, I can't tell the numbering scheme, but if the one further right is one then counting to the left' notice that the # 8 to the left shows heavy discoloration which is caused by overheating, probably when the converter bit the dust. If I read your post correctly, # 8 is the battery charging circuit, and you are reading 3.6 at the lug. Position # 4 has something smaller in size than an ordinary fuse it appears to be marked either 3 or 5 is a littlefuse type 267, as noted above it. Any way my conclusions are that all lugs below the fuse should read at least 12.6 to the white lug with a near full charge on the battery.The converter should be producing still 12+ volts at 3 or 45 amps. All things as said above, I would change the converter out and the circuit board. I further recommend that you go to a 3 stage converter, this will have the charge rate automatic built into the device. There are several on the market, I purchased a powermax brand off of ebay last time and have had very good results with it. It seems that the 45 amp unit has been good for a number of years, so for the reason that if you increase the amperage, you will need to increase wire sizes to your battery, I would try to replace with exact same size. What location are you in? There are several members if close enough will be happy to assist you on a first hand basis. Except for the fact that circuit board appears to be toasted, you should be able to cut the old converter loose and rewire the new one. If you do not feel comfortable making this change, it may time to call in a tech. If you do attempt to make the change yourself, please make sure all batteries, both house and chassis are disconnected, and the shore power is disconnected, SAFETY FIRST!!!!

Just a thought, since vacuum is pressure in reverse, is there a way that a small amount or pressure can be applied, many ac repairmen use nitrogen for this, but air for toilet will be sufficient, this way the old soap bubble test can be used.

Yep, the 100 amp seems to run too hot for the area that it is mounted in, and 75 is plenty enough to keep up. I'm sure that overheating was the culprit that caused the demise of the 100 amp. Best remedy was to go down in size, otherwise the 100 amp would need to be ducted to the outside.

This is why I suggested attaching a good battery charger directly to the battery, as earlier stated I feel strongly that the converter is too weak to keep up with the demand. I put a 100 amp converter in my coach first, it lasted less than a year then would not keep up with demand. I replaced it with a 75 amp and has worked much better and many times longer than the first.

Does the battery when connected stay charged while on shore power? I don't understand why you would want to disconnect it if all works well when connected. Your unit may be wired in such a way that will not charge without the battery connected. Many smart chargers will not show any charge if no battery is present.

With a good battery charger attached to the house battery while on shore power, does the reefer and pump work? Any circuit breaker can be tested with a VOM, disconnect the wires going to and away from it, be sure to mark where each one goes back, set the reading on the vom to read ohms, place the leads to the vom across the two terminals, the meter should read zero on the breaker, this indicates a "short" or closed circuit, on a breaker that is what you want. If these are truly circuit breakers, there should only be two wires attached and will have some type of reset as Carl is asking about. If more than two, you are probably looking at relays, especially if it is a socket type. If it is a relay, checking each one you might try removing at a time and replacing it with another with the same markings as the one replaced, then check to see if the 12+ volts has returned to the battery. Do you have any wiring schematics on your unit? Let us know if this helps. One other thing comes to mind, while pushing the button to connect the batteries together, have someone check the pump and reefer to see if they work.

12.5 volts from the converter sounds very low for charging, I would expect 13.4 to at least 13.8 when plugged into shore power. Although you said that there is only 3 volts to the battery connection. Do you have a diode based, or relay based isolator? I would suspect diode based on the older model, but you can tell by looking at it, If diode based you will probably see the housing to be aluminum with heat sink finn's. The problem seems to lye between the converter and or the isolator, especially since everything works with the motor running. If the battery is marginal, the charging converter may not be able to overcome. For starters I would put in a known good battery, just borrow it from some other place and install to see if the non working units work for a while. If this works and that battery loses power, then I would try putting on a good battery charger on the battery while everything is still working. If this works then the above section of this post is probably the culprit. But again, I would not rule out a faulty battery. Good luck hunting.

There is a device that can be plugged into the cig lighter or accessory outlet that uses small batteries to keep from having to reset those kind of devices. Be sure that the outlet that you choose will keep working with the ignition switch in off position, otherwise you will need to leave accessories on and remain on all the while the negative is disconnected. Here is one listed at amazon. https://www.amazon.com/12V-Automotive-Settings-Keeper-Battery/dp/B002C0NP5I/?tag=leosm1-20

Another advantage to using a tow dolly is that the braking system on the dolly stays with it. Also I modified mine to a tandem tow which gives a place to place the golf cart or anything else that would require either a pickup or trailer. And of course the trailer addition is illegal in many states. A tow dolly will not work well for towing a rear wheel drive vehicle.

Beautiful rig, many HAPPY tails and trails. Have you named her yet?

Carl!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's a secondhand dumper

I looked into buying a Ford Ranger recently, best choice was to find a 4 wheel drive version, either manual or automatic. I checked with several sources, including the truck manual, it seems to be good for towing 4 down, only have to put the transfer case into neutral, that was on the older ones without electronic transfer case.

Sorry Bill, I ain't eating that stuff, fish oil NOT, that's urban legend. It used to use LP for propellant, but now carbon dioxide. http://www.foodreference.com/html/facts-wd40-fish-oil.html Here is another tidbit of history on how it got it's name http://wd40.com/cool-stuff/history

If the foam rubber works, Walmart sells, and I'm sure others do as well, a foam tape, usually located in the winter insulation dept. It sticks very well,

Is it possible that you can read the values on the thermistor? Thermistors are a very common electronic part, if you can read the ohm value on the bugger, and the style of it, it should not be hard to track one down. Just pm me if I can help.

I have replaced many incandescent lights on the coach, and had no problems, I did not add any blocking diodes, so far no problems. There are many different ways to get the desired effect that will should work out for you. I personally like to order my lights for exterior as a complete unit, that way I have new inwards as well as new lens covers, but there are just an LED bulb replacement that will fit right into your 1156 and 3157 sockets, these replacements are designed with the led's positioned in a pattern that will reflect just fine off of your current reflectors. Since led's use 4.2 volts, you will find that they are designed with three led's in series with multiples paralleled so that no other resistive appliance is necessary to plug directly into a 12 volt circuit. Also, these guys are diode's and they must be plugged in correctly, ie. positive and negative properly polarized or they will not work, and one other little piece of advice is to not try to cut corners with the negative, a same length wire as the positive for negative is an absolute must for them to work correctly. You can use an electronic flasher to prevent hyperflashing, no additional wiring necessary, just replace the current flasher, its a timed circuit rather than resistive, Bill, Every good boy does fine= G cleff, good boys do fine always = F "LOL

Herman, likewise, Order of the Arrow, Eagle, and scoutmaster for 5 years, although I only have two daughters. Happy trails, Kay

Last time I took I-75 downtown Atlanta, was on a Saturday afternoon, left front tire went flat, "NEVER AGAIN". East or West 285 about 15 to 20 miles farther but either direction is better than I-75.

My observation over the years is that if you use the term RV Resort in your search, that you usually will come up with some very nice accommodations. Usually twice the price but this also enhances the probability of getting higher caliber neighbors. I can fully understand the smoldering campfire concern.

Joe, I have been using one just like the one in the video for 4 years now. Here is another alternative. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-Sliding-Closet-or-Wardrobe-Door-Latch-Black-/151062045015?hash=item232bffe157:g:ATMAAMXQCgpRt1Xe&vxp=mtr Although I am well pleased with the one in the video, only difference, I placed mine at the top of the door.

If you pull the old VOM "volt ohm meter" out of the closet or tool box, each element has two leads that are plugged into the circuit board, set the meter to read ohms, with power disconnected, pull one lead from the circuit board then place one of the probes on the terminal that you unplugged and the other lead to the terminal that is the mate to the corresponding element. Read the ohm meter for resistance, "0" = no resistance, or dead short, this will blow a fuse. If it shows no reading, or very high resistance, then the element is literally burned out, and has become open, this condition can not heat, thus replacement is necessary. The element if good will have a relatively low reading, so look for this condition in determining if both elements need replacing. Most control boards will not allow only one element to function. Also if the reading produces an open reading on either elements, it may be possible that one of the leads coming away from the element has broken, if this the case, I would still replace the element instead of trying to patch the broken wire.

Take a look at this Epson WF-100 portable printer if you are looking for small. https://www.amazon.com/Epson-WorkForce-WF-100-Wireless-Refurbished/dp/B01F9PWT7M/ref=pd_pgd_B00NV9LL9Q_B01F9PWT7M?pf_rd_p=2498087902&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00NV9LL9Q&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=NSAQ64BK4TNNTCAZ8V1P

For informational purposes related to the OP, there is a waterless p/s trap available now. This of course eliminates the slosh/siphon action. I have installed them in my coach and am well pleased with the results. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterless-RV-Sink-Trap-1-1-2-FAST-FREE-SAME-DAY-FREE-SHIPPING-/222138540281?hash=item33b87d20f9:g:h4oAAOSwVyRXT7tS&vxp=mtr There are other sources. Also please note that it can be installed vertical or horizontal, making more room under the sink or vanity. The kit comes with reducers making it usable on 1 1/2 or 1 1/4 plumbing.

If the air filter needs cleaning on one of my units, I will sometimes have a drip.