kaypsmith

IMHO, the better the air intake, and the faster the exhaust, the better the performance. If the valve cover is off for valve adjustment, takes very little extra time to adjust 24 than 12. I still love my old 6V92 Detroit with only 6 valves, but I have owned all three over the years, with very good service out of all. Maintenance is the life of any, and no abuse to the engine, as Brett said the engine will outlive most motorhomes.

Mike, you may want to consider a charge wire from your motorhome to your toad, or you can run 12 volts from the motorhome to an auxiliary cigarette lighter plug, which can be laid into the toad, or use a battery pack with lighter plug, and recharge when not in use.

Herman, if it will be exposed to the outside, black rtv sealant, can be obtained at most autopart stores will work very well. Use black, as it is the only color that is not affected by ultraviolent rays. Bet you have never seen a power company wire outside any other color than black, this is the reason. Happy motoring, Kay

If the Itasca versus the gasser, angle of the tow bar is different, it can cause a difference in the towing stability. Check with your tow bar maker for the maximum height difference between the toad and coach. If it towed well behind the gasser and not now, a simple correction may solve your problem. Good luck, and welcome to the forum, Kay

Thanks for the info Ray. These are some of the inhouse kept secrets to keep us depending on the manufacturers, so their pocketbooks can swell.

Rich, in my case, there was no leak. The compressor was just weak, and would not pump enough to bring the gauges up, when I added Freon the gauges would climb and cool would happen for a short while. And as you said, stranger things happen.

Rich, had a similar problem several years ago. When I replaced the compressor, that problem went away.

Thanks Brett for responding to this one. I have been using motorhomes for nearly 30 years, and have never known anything about disconnecting house batteries while on shore power. Since the lights, even the camper style fridge, and water heater depend on 12 volts. With the batteries disconnected, none of these and in some cases other devices would not work, in addition to the battery converter not being able to charge the batteries.

Thanks Brett for responding to this one. I have been using motorhomes for nearly 30 years, and have never known anything about disconnecting house batteries needing to be disconnected while on shore power. Since the lights, even the camper style fridge, and water heater depend on 12 volts. With the batteries disconnected, none of these and in some cases other devices would not work, in addition to the battery converter not being able to charge the batteries.

I agree with dd69, AGM is the way I would go also. Although I use 4 gel cells, only because I have a source for them. Not having to add water and no fumes is a bonus.

I hardly ever add chemicals to the holding tanks, sometimes my wife adds a little, not even the recommended amount on the package. As Brett said a good venturi on the stack is the best place to start. Keeping the tanks reasonably clean, ie., back washing them on a regular basis. Also while camped, even on full sewer hookup, I keep my tank valves closed, then release them daily, black tank first, then with that valve open, I then release the gray water, letting the gray backflow into the black tank. Remember they are holding tanks, not septic. I had a fellow RV'er next to me in a campground that allowed the tank valves to be left open. He had about eight people with him, and the black tank retained too many solids, he spent the largest part of one of those precious days unplugging the mess. But if you think any special brand smells better than others, that would be the choice that I would go with. Happy camping, Kay

Just one little tidbit added, I change steer axle tires every three years for safety sake, I move the three year old steers to the tag, and sell the now six year old tag tires to a local trucking company. The six year old tires by then have no weather cracks, and tread wear is very minimal. I get about $100.00 per tire for these two tires back towards the purchase of the new tires.

Tag axel dump is mainly used if you need better traction, such as iced condition or going in and out of some driveways and the like. Dumping the tag for turnings corners, some think is necessary to help save the life or the tag tires, but I and many others don't think it necessary. Your leveling system dump will handle any necessary dumping for leveling purposes on most coaches with hydraulic levelers. And if you use computerized air leveling, the system should level all bags. Another two cents.

How about clear and use rgb led's, that way you can dial whatever color you like for any occasion. Just a personal opinion, but I don't think red will be a problem as long as you are not moving on any highway.

Joe, I have many pictures, I will be glad to send some in a pm this pm. My avatar has a few of the inside already. Thanks, Kay

Just installed new rear view camera system on the coach. The new one is a Chinese made ordered on Ebay, less than a hundred dollars, with two cameras and a 7 inch color monitor. This is a wired one, the last one was wireless. New one has IR night vision, the wireless one didn't have that feature. After the install was complete with no light showing, and low moon, I was able to see 100 yards behind, and the color is almost as good as seeing in the daylight.

Actually the states are only concerned with each axle not being overweight, and gross weight according to that states weight limits. Some states are 20,000#, and some are 22,000# per axle, unless in some cases a local weight limit. Thats why you hardly ever see states weighing RV's. They can't possibly know each coach's particulars. These weights are for your personal safety, and is a personal duty to keep up with them. Yes it's a very good thing to keep up with them. Many years ago, I hauled oranges out of Florida on an old 3/4 ton pu., I called the Fla., DOT to ask how much weight I could haul? The gentleman at the other end of the phone laughed and said, "You don't have to worry, it's 22,000# per axle".

I bet it was sure dark out there!!

Since the pot is still simmering, 15-40 for year round should be best. But I would not go full synthetic for a couple of changes, I would use 50 regular, and 50 synthetic the first oil change, 25 regular, 75 synthetic next time around, then full from then on. This gives the engine a chance to acclimate to the generosity of full synthetic.

My father used to tell me, "I have never learned anything with my mouth open".

These type couplers are swedged onto to the hose which is steel braided. You might consider removing the hose only, normally are fitted with the same type coupler at the other end and couples to a steel tube for the long haul back to the main supply. Any hydraulic shop could either put a new coupling on the hose, or make a new one. Once again, don't crawl under that coach with proper stands. I have seen several hurt for life because of not using proper safety in similar situations. An air bag, or a hydraulic jack can be the deadliest when least suspected.

Depending on how mechanically inclined you are, the jack with the broke coupling, could possibly be plugged off, allowing you to let the other three up. Then placing jack pads (boards) under the broken jack, dump the air bags to force the jack up, may take several times, stacking pads higher each time till it is back at the right height. If it is the big foot design, you should be OK to travel, if the foldup style, with springs, you might have to help them the rest of the way. Be very careful with this operation, do not crawl under the coach with aired up airbags, use a push stick to push the props under, an awning rod to pull them back out. If you are not comfortable with doing this, "please call for service", if you are in a park, the camp office usually will have a local mobile rv repair that they can call, or give you the number. Wish it were more simple, like just electrical outage. Good luck, and please follow all safety precautions, by the way, welcome to fmca forum, and happy future RV'ing. Forgot to add earlier, you may have to add fluid to the fluid tank if the jacks still do not retract, depending on how much fluid was lost.

The cover probably works in some kind of track mechanism, check that there are no obstructions in the path, maybe could need some lubrication. The fact that is goes "oogh", it sounds like there is power to it. Although many of these type mechanisms are air, or vacuum activated, if this the case some troubleshooting of the air or vacuum hose, checking for leaks. These are only thoughts for looking for all possibilities.

Are your jacks up or down at the present?

Sometimes the locale will cause rates to increase, because of high payouts in an affected area. Not always accidents by you, but flooding, hail damage, and other happenings in that area.