kaypsmith

Happy New Year from Alabama, hope your DAD will soon be back to normal, God bless all!

Just one side note from reading the above responses, the neutral is often overlooked, and can be very devastating if it does ever open. Happy holidays, Kay

I agree with Brett, operating any engine, gas or diesel, below normal operating temperature will greatly reduce the life of the engine.

I prefer Iota brand ATS for my use, and have never used an ATS with surge protection because I have an external surge guard, but looking online, I did find one at Camping World. I can't vouch for the quality because of never using one, but the company is a reputable company. Here is the link "http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm?skunum=67210&rewrote&affiliateid=5193&gclid=CKXxqIakhsoCFdgPgQod2OUD1w". Happy New year, Kay

One thing that I didn't make clear, but thought with the info on the ATS, if the voltage drops below 90 volts for any reason, the ATS relay will drop, then it does have a 30 second delay before it will engage the relay again on the generator side. That's one reason for checking the generator output before it gets to the ATS, also it takes the ATS out of the equation for testing purposes. Also this dropout if happening often could be signs of other things going wrong. If the dropout keeps happening, by other indications this is not the first time that it has happened, something as simple as a near break in the wire or loose connection in the generator, or even between the generator and the ATS. Don't forget the neutral wire and connections are as important as the hot wires. Again, good luck, Kay

In over 30 years have not seen a commercially built motorhome without a battery isolator, either relay operated, or diode based. As Ray said, look for a faulty relay, or if diode based, it will be a rectangular device with fins on it, with 3 heavy gauge wires attached.

1800 rpm is very good, this means that the generator uses four windings 3600 only uses two, these numbers mean that the generator is heavy duty versus lightly built. 1800 rpm will outlast 3600 at least three to one or more, ie., 1000 hours on 1800 is like 3000 or more on 3600. The reason for testing before the automatic transfer switch (ATS), is to insure that the generator itself is the failing point. An ATS is an raw form electronic device, even though it is relatively new, doesn't mean it is failsafe. An electric surge of any kind, such as bad grounding, or an overvoltage spike can weaken or take that device out, or could even be faulty from the beginning. By removing that from the equation, you are getting an honest reading about the condition of the generator. If bad ATS possibly a reason to go back on the seller for replacement, of if it is the culprit, much cheaper than major generator repairs. Also to polish the commentator, with brushes out, use a very fine abrasive, such as 800 grit sand paper or emery cloth, spinning the stator slowly, apply enough pressure against the abrasive against the area that the brushes ride on. Also observe that there is no burned looking places across the dielectric (separators) between the copper pieces in the commentator, just one such place will allow the generator to be at less than 60 cycles, which will impede the voltage output. 110 to 112 voltage is an acceptable voltage, you just don't want any brownouts. Good luck with your project and happy holidays, Kay

Tom, I checked your ATS specs "The ESCO ES50m-65N automatic transfer switch offers a 30 second time delay to allow the generator to get up and running. The unit monitors for low voltage on the generator side with a cut off voltage of 90 VAC" This being the case, if it is working properly, 90 volts would have to have been achieved for the dropout, voltage this low can be devastating to your household equipment. I would highly recommend that the generator be monitored with a voltage monitor from startup for a while. I would only have a 1500 watt element style heater attached and turned on highest setting for the monitoring session, also insure the ATS is not in line for testing. Is this a 3600 or 1800 rpm unit?

The brushes may be having an issue, this unit appears to be several years old. I wasn't able to find a manual for that model # online. I have in the past seen an issue where they have become worn and the spring is slightly weak causing a similar issue just after startup.

ObedB, Yes I do like the bus, had one uncle, and two cousins that drove for Greyhound while I was growing up, also an uncle that drove a city bus in Lagrange Ga., had plenty of riding experience back then. At the age of twelve I landed my first job as a greaser/spotter at a chicken hauling company, several IH tractors with 10 speed road ranger's, and two Autocar's with 13 speeds, that's where I learned of course how to back a trailer, very good experience as far as I am concerned. And I picked MCI over Prevost because of the monocoque design, there is no flexing of the body as with a floor over frame rigs, therefore the granite floor and granite counter tops will not crack from normal movement down the highway, and of course that is only my opinion. I might mention that my bus was in Whitehaven Pa., when I bought it, I think that is NE of Stewartstown. Anyway Happy holidays, Kay

Yes, I actually ordered mine from a seller on e-bay, under rv furniture, good pricing, just make sure that you don't order the stackable kind, you will see many listings there. I have a Serta brand in the house that cost 3 times what one in motorhome cost, but the motorhome sleeps better to me. Yes it is plenty flexible, my bed raises to about 70 degrees also, the frame is Platt and Legget. I had one of those airbeds at one time, and like yours, the inlet was continually breaking.

I use a memory foam mattress in my coach, it is on an electric adjustable bed frame, works perfect. The only problem we have ever had was keeping sheets on it in the raised position, finally found a company that actually makes a stayput fitted sheet, and that solved that. Kay

Greg, That is great news that it has increased in Virginia. If you travel to other states, the length factor for each state applies, reciprocity does not apply. My coach is an MCI, and does have the class V hitch, which I installed. It will definitely pull the weight, but with a 26 foot trailer behind it will be at least 68 feet. MCI does have an F3500, only 35 feet with single axle and same drive train as the larger coaches, it has been converted by many to a beautiful coach. Happy holidays.

There is another factor that needs to be considered, that is the maximum length, "http://www.onlinetowingguide.com/pdfs/StateTowingLaws.pdf". I do see some people exceeding the maximum length, but I consider it a very risky thing to do. You might be lucky and avoid ever questioned by a trooper, but there is always the possibility that something might go wrong, a wreck could be devastating in the event insurance fails to pay because of not staying within the guidelines of the law. I do see many tractors that have been converted as mentioned in an earlier post that is designed to do the job that you are wanting to do. I love my class A, and want others to enjoy also, but be careful in your planning. Kay

Joy to the World Merry Christmas to all! Thanks Herman

For anchoring, I used two strips of aluminum 1 inch by 1 inch by 1X16 aluminum angle about 18 inches long. These are attached on each side by 3 half inch #8 sheet metal screws, through the aluminum angle into the outside side panels of the refrigerator, then 3 wood screws right into the cabinet face frame. Hasn't moved yet except for an annual inspection of the rear and vacuuming to get rid of any dust build up. I do have an icemaker with 1/4 flexible pipe that has a coil in it for moving purposes. Also, my unit is directly on the floor of the coach, so I screw down the leveling legs when the unit is in place so that it isn't resting on the rollers. Good question jc21014

Be sure to look at the amp draw affixed on the inside of the reefer, the lower the amperage the longer it will work on an inverter. And yes you will need some room for air to circulate, but if you will be putting the frige where the Norcold is already installed, a wise choice is to leave the vent on the roof and the vent in the sidewall, that should plenty if not more than you will need.

I think a call to Blue Ox is perfect order. That looks like a probable defects in materials and or workmanship.

I use nitrile gloves instead of those cheap latex gloves. L.O.L

That is a nasty place and break. How old is the tow bar, and was there an previous damage to the unit?

I use a residential fridge, been using about four years now. I chose a 19 cubic foot 3 door Samsung because of the low amperage draw (3.9) max. This was next to the lowest on the market at that time, LG had one that was rated at (3.5), but Samsung was my choice because at that time I had modified sine wave inverter, the Samsung even stated that it would run on MSW. I live on a pretty bumpy road, about one quarter mile of bumps, and I park the bus at home, make about 25 exits per year. Although I never turn the fridge off, my inverter is on an ATS, as well as the generator on one also, and when I arrive home it is plugged in, or when arriving at a campground, therefore I can't attest to the turning off for prolonged periods. But the unit pulls very little draw. Good luck with the change if you do so, I personally will never go back to an absorption type fridge. Kay

Op says "bar broke at attach point where dual attach bars at the IV hitch", I think that means at the hitch end next to coach. For converting those pictures so that they will upload, if using windows, just load them into paint, there is a converter there. I'm reasonably sure that Macintosh will have a similar program. Happy holidays to all, Kay

When towing the car, is the tow bar parallel with the road below it, ie. if you measure down from the front of the tow bar, then at the back of the tow bar? Be sure the toad and the coach is on a fairly level parking lot or roadway while measuring. If it is not very near the same measurement, it can cause serious damage to the toad. Here is a link which is worthwhile reading "http://blueoxexpress.com/resources/tow-physics.html". Unlike a trailer with two wheels, or even a tandem axle, as tandems have the suspension to accommodate for a slight unevenness. Good luck in the future with this toad. Kay

Yep, the Honda inverter/generator (there are other brands available), is a different breed of generator with sine wave technology. It produces electricity at a varying frequency allowing the motor to turn at varying speeds. This allows the motor to run slower for smaller current demand and rev's up to a higher rpm when more current is called for. In turn the inverter portion of the generator changes the frequency to 60 cycles/hertz at 110 volts in a pure sine wave which is a much cleaner waveform for your electronic equipment. The older technology requires that constant rpm on the motor be maintained to maintain the 60 cycles required for equipment in U.S. devices to run correctly. This is why the older style generator is louder than the inverter style. Same technology is now being implemented in some newer air conditioning systems which works in reverse of the generator, 60 cycles is inverted to a higher frequency and varied to actually slow the motors for quieter operation, and increase the speed for higher demand, thereby increasing efficiency and lowering current demand. Also there are 12 volt dc chargers available for charging your laptop batteries http://www.powerstream.com/ADC-p006.htm, I use one, this allows me to recharge my laptop without ever cranking a generator, just plug into a 12 volt power outlet in the coach or car. What a wonderful world we live in! Happy holidays, Kay

aldebruijn, Glad to reply, please note that the gel cell batteries that I quoted are 1200 amp hours each, which are paralleled together for a total of 3600 amps, this is about eight times as many amps storage as your four 6 volt golf cart batteries. I have worked in the computer industry for 32 years and have many connections with communication services, which has enabled me to be able to acquire these monster batteries at a fairly reasonable cost, new they cost $800.00 each, but cell companies replace them every year as a regular maintenance item, and I have been fortunate to get some at a reasonable cost. Unfortunately the party that I have acquired them from in the past, passed away earlier this year. I have been using the units for two years now, and have hopes of using them at least six more. To answer the question about charging them, most of the newer inverter/chargers have a setting for gel cell, so yes you do have to use special charging means, and solar panel controllers with the correct settings are an excellent means of charging them. Incidentally, the 12 volt units that I use weigh 114# each. Hope that you can upgrade your system to make it what you like soon. By the way, if you have room and can stand the extra weight, just adding four more of what you have alone will double the time before discharging, or at least probably put the drain to sixty or sixty five percent for the same period of time, thereby increasing the battery life significantly, it will take longer to bring them back to full with your current equipment. But will be the least expensive upgrade for a short term fix. Happy holidays, Kay