kaypsmith

"Only vehicles that are operating in commerce may be subject to a safety inspection." The above quote is probably the key, some bus companies have let their equipment become outdated, and have become a hazard to the persons they are carrying onboard. Also illegal drugs are known to be transported in vehicles of this size, if they have to stop for weighing, makes them easier to catch.

One of my two awnings did the same way as described above. I called the supplier, they shipped another motor assembly. While waiting for the replacement, I took the motor assembly apart and found the unit had gotten away from the assembly plant without the axles installed in the planetary gears. I made a set out of nickel welding rod and put it together. Been working fine for three years, and I have a spare motor assembly.

When was the last time you pulled the drain plug from the water heater? Sediment build up can cause the problem described. This may or may not be the problem, but it is the least expensive to try first. If it doesn't work, then the control board is the next item to look at, assuming that you have already checked the thermostat for proper setting, or just try moving to a higher setting.

Sad event, I too am sorry for the loss, and loss of time for you. Someone stole our almost new 2012 KIA in 2012, over $7000.00 of equipment was in the car. 29 days later, the police called to say it had been located. Over $9000.00 damage to a six month old car, bullet holes included. Of course the insurance co., fixed the car, but would not replace any of my equipment. I did file with my homeowner policy, and got all that was inventoried. If you still own a home, you may want to check with them. Good luck with insurance, and hope the police find the low life's.

I didn't mention, the coolant lines from your coach system, be sure to not loose any more water/coolant than necessary. When you disconnect them, be sure to plug if possible, or at least be prepared to raise them as high as possible and have a bungy or rope to hold them up if possible. Be sure to replenish your system with the proper antifreeze. Yes swap all as suspected and hopefully the new tank will have fittings that will match perfectly.

I checked the Internet for a picture of your model coach, found a 2002 model. The picture that I found shows a window just behind the entrance door. That window would my prime suspect, as these type windows can leak. On the outside, look downward at the top of the metal frame and check it closely, you may see some separation between the frame and the fiberglass, if you do not I would still use a caulking gun with a silicone sealant and run a nice bead of the sealant all the way around that metal frame. Your coach is approaching the age that these things happen to. Not a bad idea to do this to all the windows, just a little insurance. Hope this helps, Kay

If you are on shore water, just turn it on, open a hot water faucet in the coach, bleed of all the air, when the water is running at a normal stream, turn off the faucet. When all this is done, you can turn the power back on. Shore water will run without power if it is hooked up and turned on. Good luck with the change out.

Does this only occur while driving? If so, there may be a loose connection in the splice connection of the ac, most that I have seen have wire nuts connecting the house feed to the ac. With power off, you might remove the wire nuts, and twist the wires with a pair of pliers, then put on new nuts. I always add electrical tape over the wire nuts for safety. If you are not comfortable with electricity, a qualified electrician probably want charge very much to do this. Also inspect for frayed wire covering, especially where the feed passes through the metal wire housing.

Have you checked the cooling system? Water/antifreeze level, cooling fan, etc.. Not knowing what year the generator is, the older models used brushes on the commentator, if the brushes have become worn, it could cause some of the effects that you describe.

Since they are on the same thermostat, there should be a timing start delay. If the two are starting Simultaneously, this can cause an overdraw. I think that your description of a dual 20 amp breaker means 2 separate switches on a single breaker, ie., attach to a single lug (110 volt), these work very well in most cases, but most lugs are aluminum, which heats up very quickly, can cause a problem with the type breaker that is installed if they are starting at the same time. A simple time delay device to insure that both units can't start at the same time should solve the problem of the breakers going bad so soon. Since this configuration is in the build sheet, there probably is one installed, if so the delay timer may have gone bad. Good luck chasing, and I don't think anyone has told you yet, so here it is, WELCOME TO THE FORUM. Kay

My wife and prefer the bus. Have now owned three class A's, and not regretted it one bit. We travel with 4 Yorkies (they don't think they are dogs), and I can't imagine hauling 4 in a truck towing the home. Also the dw loves to cook our meals while traveling, she puts the crockpot in the sink, plugs it in and starts it up while I am getting the air up on the bus, 4 to 6 hours later, we pull into a rest area for lunch.

Are the two units on one thermostat?

Is there enough room in your breaker box for two single 20 amp breakers instead of the dual? If not can the wire be moved to another single breaker with the wire on that breaker move to the dual? Overheating on the single leg that the dual is on can cause duals to trip as you describe. As DD69 recommends checking startup amp draw, if both units draw high current, in the advent both units start simultaneously can surely be a factor. Was the third unit an add on? Hard to believe that Monaco would have used a dual 20 amp breaker with ac's on it.

There is a hole enlarger which is actually a step drill bit, possibly push the wire down and out of the way then enlarge the hole by one step at a time until it can be pulled through with a wire fish. http://www.ebay.com/itm/3PC-Hex-Shank-Large-Steel-Quick-change-Steel-Coated-Step-Drill-Titanium-Bit-/400930306997?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d594efbb5 These can be purchased locally at places like Sears, Harbor freight and other places. You might want to do a search for a wire pulling grip, we used these devices for pulling the main packing seal, so we didn't have to pull the crankshaft.

I didn't add anything earlier, but since it has been mentioned, my exhaust turns almost straight down and causes dust on a dirt road. Had my buddy at the sheet metal shop make a stainless slightly curved plate, then mounted about 4 inches below the exhaust to deflect, it helped the dust about 50 percent.

If I am going on an uncharted route "to me", I print out a map from mapquest, and also from google maps. I have the Magellan 7720 on the dash and plug in the destination, then check against the printed routes, if there is too much variation, I then change to another mode on the gps "there are four different modes", when I find the one that I like best, I will use that one. Only time disappointed was the first trip out, I had chosen fastest time, "boy was that a mistake", poor Toby, that was my Yorkie sidemate of those days, he was as scared as I was, we went down dirt roads, back allies, and as Andy Griffeth said in the football story "I DON'T WHAT ALL". Toby was so glad to see mama when we got to where she met us, he wouldn't come to me for two days. Happier trails to all, Kay

I don't know how many you need, but the ebay price for the entire fixtures is probably less than just lenses will cost. The link that you provided is for led, and if your 09 is original equipment, they are probably halogen. Bulb replacement alone is nearly the cost of the led fixture, and the led will use much less current than the halogen, meaning longer battery charge life. Just my 2 cents worth, and a thought that you might consider.

Another reason for closing the drain valve added to my list. Thanks Joe!

Rich, I have no problem remembering where the tool was left, but the DW, being helpful, moves it and then doesn't know what it was that she moved. LOL Kay

A clogged vent pipe can cause the symptoms that you describe. A climb to the roof might be in order, if you have more one than stack, determine which is to the gray tank, open the gray valve insert hose down the pipe and dw or someone to watch for drainage. Dirt/mud daubers, wasp, and other varments can build nest and cause these symptoms. Also a large amount of Dawn dishwashing detergent down the sink with hot water will help remove grease buildup in the system. And lint buildup from the washer could possibly be the culprit, there is a gadget on the market called the claw, inserted at the drain end might dislodge the culprit. I know that most leave their gray water open when camped with full hookup, but I keep my valve closed, then drain daily when on full hookup just for this very reason. Hope there is a simple solution for you. PS, if you use a snake from the discharge end, be prepared to get wet.

I would not recommend using "Formica" over plastic, or pvc, only as a replacement for the panels if the substrate is acceptable. But pvc over pcv, or plastic over plastic. If the material is pvc, the pvc glue will work very well, as it actually fuses the material together, (same as welding).

There is several other tire manufacturers that are good choices, if saving a little over Michelin is a must. I have used Sumitomo, and Kumho, and Goodyear with success. As stated earlier by Herman, don't put your life and the life of your loved ones at risk for a few bucks.

On a previous post, KIA Soul with manual transmission was a great option. I have an automatic, so have to use a tow dolly, but if you haven't driven the car, a test drive will give a look for another option. The Soul is the most surprising little SUV when driving it.

Do you know what the substate "the material behind", the cracked plastic outer shell, is made of? There are many alternatives to replacing it, such as plastic laminate, "Formica is a brand", or if you are not a diy'er, there are many companies that can give you many ideas. One that comes to mind is Rebath, or other companies that do bathtub and shower walls. Look at the box stores, Lowes, Homedepot, etc., at the shower assemblies that they offer. Measure the existing and have measurements handy while looking. Also if it is pvc, the cement made for pvc actually dissolves the material and will fuse pvc together, making it very workable for repairs. Test the material with some of the cement in an area that is concealed, by cleaning with solvent, and cut a small piece of pvc pipe and try just to see if the material is workable, if so, you can be creative making repairs. Good luck, and welcome to the forum, Kay

I think, the filter. Mine cost $300.00, but takes less than 10 minutes to change.